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Carb options for 1977 318.

Discussion in 'Repairs, Maintenance, Help' started by fatlip, Jan 30, 2014.

  1. fatlip

    fatlip New Member

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    Hey folks. I swear my head is going to spin off with all this going back and forth between my truck- my wifes car and my two daughters cars. I love doing it but I think I am loosing track of things. . .

    My daughters truck currently has a Carter bbd. Now carbs I do NOT work on. I feel it is worth the $89 - $140 per year to get them serviced by someone who knows them inside and out. SO, We have this problem where the truck is basically trying to stall at lights and stops. Has done this periodically in the last 4 years or so. We take it to the carb guy - he fixes it - and each time he says " pretty soon its gonna be time for a replacement" . He says that he can keep rebuilding it no problem but we would benefit from a newer rebuild.

    We do not want to switch to a 4 barrel. So does anyone have suggestions for other than carter options.
     
  2. valiant67

    valiant67 ...

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    Holley 2bbls were also used for the 318-2. Not sure of the years.
    You are pretty limited because the 360-2 used a larger carb that won't bolt to the 318 manifold.
     
  3. AC TC

    AC TC Well-Known Member

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    For some reason you dont whant to get a four barrel.
    - why o why????
    A good four bbl and and intake will almost get you a new engine instead of the slug it is today, get some more comp...
     
  4. floridaman2013

    floridaman2013 Active Member

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    Don't they make an EFI conversion kit for that engine? I've seen them on Jeep Wranglers work great!
     
  5. fatlip

    fatlip New Member

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    It's my daughters truck. She is limited on income and a swap to a 4 barrel is a bit out of her price range. I have explained the power benefits to her but . . . We need to do a bit more pricing research on this verses a rebuilt 2.
     
  6. KOG

    KOG KOG

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    Rebuild the one you've got. If you can read a shop manual AND (here's the important part) if you can follow it EXACTLY you'll have no problem. By exactly I mean that if the float level is supposed to be .250" you set it there, not .240 or .260. Same with choke pulloff, etc. The problem with rebuilts you get from the parts store (and the new ones from the factory for that matter) is that they throw them together and don't set every thing up exactly right. I've had to readjust countless new and rebuilt carbs that were just wrong when delivered in order to get them to work correctly. BTW, if the carb goes "out of adjustment" every year then someone is blowing smoke at you. A carb stays adjusted right where it was for many years and usually over a hundred thousand miles minimum,

    Yes, a four barrel can deliver slightly more torque or slightly better fuel economy when set up properly, but there's no way you'd ever get enought benefit from it to justify the cost of the carb and the manifold. And an EFI conversion is also way more expensive than can be justified on that car. If you want EFI, buy a car that's injected to begin with. Much cheaper and it might actually work.
     
  7. Scrounge

    Scrounge Got parts?

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    You might call your local junkyards and ask if they have Dodge trucks in your vintage and what their carburetor prices are. Or check online, as some yards now have their own sites. Carbs are fairly easy to remove, hoses first, then linkage, then 4 nuts. Wrench a Part in Texas charges $30 or so for a 2-barrel, regardless of condition. If a Pick n Pull is closer to you, they often have Mopars going back that far. Most of the carbs I've seen need a rebuild, but better to practice on a junkyard carb than the only one you currently have on the truck. The carb on your daughter's truck was made from the '74 to '84 model years. There were two BBDs then; the 318 should have the smaller one (1 1/4-inch).

    Carbs might cost more at swap meets, depending on the vendor and whether it's been rebuilt, though I've bought them there as cheap as $5 (they were very dirty).

    Ditto on the shop manual, preferably the factory service manual, as Chilton's, Haynes, and the like aren't as detailed.

    I prefer the Carters to the Holleys, as the Carters perform better and are easier to work on. However, they will need a rebuild every few years due to the ethanol in the gasoline. The Carters also need the throttle shafts rebushed after so many miles -- maybe that's all that's wrong with yours. If you want to try a Holley, a 2280 model should work on your truck, but I don't think they were offered until the '79 model year. I'd first research before making that swap.
     
    Nebraskaorville likes this.

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