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Chrysler blown maxi (flf) fuse - Update- Help appreciated

Discussion in 'Repairs, Maintenance, Help' started by MarkT, Jul 6, 2017.

  1. MarkT

    MarkT Member

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    I again appreciate all the information and patience. I just have 2 (stupid) questions.

    1. You say no power in the circuit. Is the battery hooked up or disconnected?
    2. I already have the oxygen senors still disconnected so I'll start with those. As i check the injectors, coil pack, generator and the PCM doe's it matter if i reconnect things or just keep leaving them apart? I want to do this right and I'm just not sure. Sorry for having to be spoon fed.
     
  2. ImperialCrown

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    1. Having the ign key off and/or pulling the ASD relay should be good before starting the test.
    2. Read the total A142 ohms-to-ground. As you unplug things, leave them unplugged. You want to watch the ohms-to-ground raise as items are removed from the A142 circuit.
    I suspect that the fuse keeps blowing because something is drawing too much current in this circuit. We have to find which component that is. It is likely the one with a very low resistance-to-ground.
    Again, don't rule out a wiring harness rub-through, cut or pinch that is shorting the DG/Or wire to ground. A harness that is allowed to rest against a metal bracket edge, etc. can eventually get the plastic insulation 'sawed' through to touch the bare copper wire. This would be a short.
     
  3. MarkT

    MarkT Member

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    Went back out on the car today. I'm using several meters now to verify and one that (beeps) for continuity. I rechecked the oxygen sensors. Same results. The two white wires on the oxygen sensors still give me 6.4 to 7.0 ohms. Everything else no readings. I decided to check the six fuel injectors. All 12.8 to 13.1 ohms. I check the pins on the coil pack to the ground pin. 2/5 .8 ohms, 1/4 .9 ohms, 3/6 .9 ohms. I tested the coil pack itself. 2/5 12,900 ohms, 1/4 12,900 ohms and 3/6 13,000 ohms.

    I hooked everything up including the battery but i left the blown fuse in and pulled the ASD relay. I read not to test resistance in a live circuit. I closed all the doors and trunk and pulled the bulb under the hood out. On every test i checked for continuity first (beep) and then took an ohm reading for the DG/Or A142 wire to ground as follows:

    Upper left oxygen sensor- Beep 1.7
    Upper right oxygen sensor - Beep 2.3
    Lower left oxygen sensor - Beep 2.4
    Lower right oxygen sensor - Beep 1.7
    Coil pack - Beep 2.9
    Injectors 1 to 6 - Beep 3.0
    Power train control module slot 6 on the connector harness- Beep 2.2

    When i checked the DG/Or wire for the generator i got no beep or reading. I went back and checked things i already checked prior and also got no beep or readings. I think when i pull the connector from the generator I'm losing the ground somehow. With it off everything prior won't read. With it connected i get readings for everything prior. How can i check the DG/Or wire on the connector for generator? Information again much appreciated. I'm trying to test and rule out whatever i can.
     
  4. ImperialCrown

    Level III Supporter

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    The 3Ω or less to ground seems too low and may be the reason for the blowing fuse.
    Try unplugging the DG/Or connector from the generator and leave it unhooked for now. Then try starting the car and see if it continues to run without blowing the fuse. The problem (short) may be inside the generator?
     
  5. MarkT

    MarkT Member

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    Most of the readings i got were less then 3 ohms but i got readings and beeps on everything but the generator. I couldn't get a reading on the generator DG/Or wire when i unhooked it. I am somehow breaking the ground i think but I'm not sure. I probably won't get at his for a day or so. I need to hook everything up and my back is burning and paining from yesterday.
     
  6. MarkT

    MarkT Member

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    GENERATOR, WIRING OR POWER TRAIN CONTROL MODULE????? After several days i got back at the car. I cleaned all the grounds and looked at all the wiring. I put it all back together and started the car with the field connector on the generator disconnected. The field connector has the DRG/Or wire from the ASD relay and the green wire to the PCM. The car ran with the connector off the generator. I turned it off and started it again and ran it for about 15 seconds again. The car ran. I hooked up the connector and started the car and in a few seconds it blew the fuse.

    I think it's the generator but any information and feed back is greatly appreciated such as how to test the generator.
     
  7. Tomguy

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    If the diode(s) in it have failed only a test would likely detect that. It would cause AC to be sent, or overvolting. If it's sending AC or overvolting it will absolutely blow the fuse. Most stores can test them free. You can pick up a used pull from eBay for cheap.
     
  8. ImperialCrown

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    It does look like the Generator field has shorted internally if the fuse holds with the field connector unplugged. An auto parts store bench test may test for this to confirm it. A quality reman generator may be the way to go.
     
  9. MarkT

    MarkT Member

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    The car runs the field connector from the generator off that has the DRG/Or wire from the ASD relay and the Green wire to the PCM. I didn't want to keep it running off the battery but it will run. I disconnected the battery, plugged the connector back in, reconnected the battery and started the car. In a few seconds it promptly took out the fuse.
     
  10. MarkT

    MarkT Member

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    I took the generator off the car today. I finally got a reading for the DRG/Or wire from the Generator connector to the ASD relay, 3.2 ohms. (Easier to get readings when calm). I took a reading from the prong on the generator for what is the Green wire to the PCM, 3.8 ohms. I took a reading across both prongs on the generator and got a reading of 3.2 ohms. I then took a reading for the the prong that is for the DRG/Or wire, .7 ohms. If i can get feedback on these numbers it would be appreciated. I think the generator itself is gone but I'm not an electrical expert.
     
  11. Tomguy

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    If you already took it off, take it into a local parts store for testing. AutoZone has testers, pretty sure Advance does too. The issue is usually one of two things: Failed diodes or rectifiers, or a bad internal winding (it's unlikely brushes, they wouldn't blow a fuse normally - just cause low or no charging). The testers at the store should be able to pick up on that.
     
  12. MarkT

    MarkT Member

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    I finally found the patience, desire and mainly time to get back on the car. One limited lifetime warranty remanufactured alternator later and the car is running and not popping anymore fuses, at least not yet anyway. I've never had an alternator just fail like this one did. No warnings, no dash lights, gauges, engine codes or anything. Just quit when i was pulling out of a parking lot one night. Autozone doe's test alternators but i have a friend from when we were kid's who's father has a NAPA store and i do get a great deal on parts and didn't feel right trying to use Autozone for a test then buying it somewhere else.
     
    ImperialCrown likes this.

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