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Coolant leak, 00 Ram van 5.2L V8

Discussion in 'Vans' started by NssJ, Jan 10, 2013.

  1. NssJ

    NssJ Member

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    [​IMG]

    Probably good I'm changing this...
    How does this happen?
    It looked like yellow battery acid foam crust in one of the dead end triangular indents on the timing cover face behind this mess.
    Water outlet ate its face off, beyond resealable, thankfully intake manifold could be made flush again.

    When I got the van it looked like 90% water, 5% rust, and 5% dex-cool. Flushed all that out and went 50/50 conventional green once I got home.
     
  2. TWX

    TWX DO NOT FEED THE TROLLS!
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    Wrong coolant can cause BIG problems, especially when mixed with another type of coolant. Hard to say without knowing the history in this case.
     
  3. NssJ

    NssJ Member

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    Will the camshaft wanna move when I take the chain/sprocket off? Like from valve spring pressure?
     
  4. TWX

    TWX DO NOT FEED THE TROLLS!
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    I don't remember that being much of an issue when I did an in-car timing set change once. There are sixteen places it's being pushed on at all different heights, if your springs are even pressure then I would think it'd mostly stay put.

    If you're replacing the chain and sprockets, bear in mind that sometimes they'll advance the keyway. Read the documentation, because sometimes there are three keyways on the sprocket for 0° +4°, and -4°.
     
  5. NssJ

    NssJ Member

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    Ok, cool. I know on some (D)OHC timing belts, the Cam likes to roll forward a tooth the second the belt is removed. Enough fun trying to roll it back, let alone if the gear is removed too.

    No real documentation with timing set. Only one keyway and one timing dot on each sprocket. Seems idiot proof...

    Are the 5.2L non-interference motors?
     
  6. NssJ

    NssJ Member

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    Here's where I'm at now:
    New chain temp installed. pretty sure its on right, cause moving a tooth either direction on Crank sprocket moves the timing marks way off, so that was easy enough.

    Coolant leak was side of timing gasket as suspected. About 3/4in of outer edge of water port gasket disolved. The rest of the gasket appeared intact. However...
    [​IMG]
    There was a trail of sludge (blue dots) from top left corner along left edge of cover, size/shape shown. Blobs between bb & marble size.

    [​IMG]
    After removing Cam sprocket, noticed sludge went into this oil passage left of Cam. I pulled a bunch of blobs out with q-tips, but theres more in there. I can see in there, but theres still goo on all visible surfaces. The right side oil passage however, is pretty clean, can see clearly into it.

    Curious what to do at this point. Again, I don't plan on keeping the van. It needs to get me from FL to CO, then it gets traded in, or scrapped or whatever.

    Where do these oil passages go? Do they come from the back, around the Cam, then drain out onto the chain, or drain down to pan? Can I like brake clean the poopies out of it, or are there tiny ports up in there that might clog? I still have to drop the oil pan anyways, so front and bottom will be open. What are my cleaning options?

    I'm gonna read up on sludge forum topics, just curious about specific area on this 5.2L that might need treated differently...
    Thanks
     
  7. TWX

    TWX DO NOT FEED THE TROLLS!
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    I've heard of people running other-than-oil fluids in older V8 engines to flush them out, for a minute or so at most. I do not have any experience in doing this and thus I cannot offer any recommendation on the technique.
     
  8. 68RT

    68RT Well-Known Member

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    There are actually engine oil flushes out there to do that job. (Follow manufactureres recomendations.) Not sure but probably coming out of the valley.
     
  9. NssJ

    NssJ Member

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    Didn't see any sludge when I redid pcv grommets, from what I could see in the valve cover. Crankshaft and oil pan appear pretty clean too. I'm guessing the only sludge came from coolant leaking into the timing cover, and the chain pushing it up into that hole. Cleaned out what I could in there with q-tips, Overall seems good thankfully.

    Do the exhaust pipes have gaskets where they meet?
    Didn't see anything when I took apart, but wanted to ask. Figure a bit more important here with half the engine in the van...

    How high do I need to jack the motor to remove the oil pan?
    I have the exhaust, bell housing plate, and starter out. Unbolted both motor mounts, jacked up with wood on pan, put what I thought was 2x4 in between mounts and block(1.5" x 3.5"). I had to pull both evap tubes from charcoal to engine bay, they were pinching. Now, there's a throttle cable, and a thick wire harness about to pinch between floor and transmission. I don't have much more room to go up, but pan doesn't wanna come out. Chiltons said roll towards driver's side, but that doesn't seem to help. I can move the pan around a bit, but not to a point where the oil pickup clears whatever internal shelf is in the pan to tilt it down more...

    [​IMG]
     
  10. valiant67

    valiant67 ...

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    If you mean a gasket between the manifold and the Y pipe, there was no gasket there.
     
  11. NssJ

    NssJ Member

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    ok, just making sure. Thank you.
     
  12. NssJ

    NssJ Member

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    Maybe its just the extended 15 passenger ones, but that front cross-member couldn't be more in the way. I found some ran van videos on youtube, but no one seemed to have near the clearance issues I did.

    Moved all wires, fuel, and vacuum lines from top of transmission to the side of it (rear evap lines moved into cab).
    Jacked bellhousing up til transmission was butted against floorboard.
    Oil pan now had enough clearance, but jack was in the way.
    Put jack stands under harmonic balancer, and transmission pan with wood on both.
    Moved jack, oil pan came out barely.

    About 90% back together. Waiting on rtv to fully cure to be safe. Gonna pressure test coolant with a/c & alt still off so I can see better. Hopefully nothing leaks and I can close this thread out finally.
     
  13. TWX

    TWX DO NOT FEED THE TROLLS!
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    No worries, we're patient... *grin*
     
  14. NssJ

    NssJ Member

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    Water pump leaks slightly, thankfully from its gasket, not timing cover again. Tiny leak, temp pepper plugged til down time to redo. I think 7yr old blue rtv may be part of that, also corrosion on timing cover might have needed a bit more rtv on that side.

    Rear main seal developed slight leak. Thought about doing it with oil pan off, but couldn't wait for my parts at that time. Slight leak likely due to running 5W-30 synthetic to clean out the sludge I did find. Switching to 10W-30 High Milage after initial flushes. Hopefully stops then.

    Timing cover and 1-piece oil pan gasket leak free despite resetting oil pan gasket after pan was 3in from block. So overall somewhat successful job. Hopefully leaks stay small enough to make drive home & trade this tank in on something smaller.

    Thank everyone for your help! 1st timing chain turned out mostly ok...
     
  15. TWX

    TWX DO NOT FEED THE TROLLS!
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    Trust me, I drove a portable EPA superfund site for awhile before I got around to taking the car off the road to restore it. In your shoes I'd drive it a bit before the trip, checking the fluids when you fill up for gas, and note whatever rate they seem to need refilling, and just plan to do more of that by mileage as you drive. The drivetrain in this van is the final and ultimate example of about 40 years of engineering design and the body itself is the pinnacle of about 30 years of revision, so being a mature design is helpful.
     
  16. NssJ

    NssJ Member

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    Yea, I just stumbled on the 400k mi club the other day. Saw some 5.2's on there; reassuring!
     
  17. TWX

    TWX DO NOT FEED THE TROLLS!
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    Yep... I've got an '82 Dodge truck with the 318, the previous incarnation to the Magnum 5.2, and it's got 276,000 miles on it. It's worn out as heck, but when I bought it I drove it about 150 miles to bring it home.

    At work I formerly drove a '98 Maxiwagon 3500 with about 110,000 miles on it, ran solid. The front end was a little squirrelly, but it got used daily for a couple of years before they decided that I should drive a different one.

    Dad's '89 Dakota with a 3.9L V6, an engine derived from the LA small block V8, had over 200,000 miles on it before the truck caught on fire. I had told him about a fuel smell, he didn't heed my warning. Fortunately the fire got put out before the whole truck went up and we'll be putting it back together this summer. In his case it was probably a leaky throttle-body fuel injector, so that's not a problem that you'd have either as yours is full EFI.
     

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