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DIY Booster replacement

Discussion in 'PT Cruiser' started by mr2tim, Mar 21, 2014.

  1. mr2tim

    mr2tim Member

    Dec 21, 2011
    PT Cruiser Brake Booster Replacement-- DIY and save $300+

    Here are some documentation photos of my replacing the booster on my 01 PT Cruiser.
    The operation is simple really, just think one step at a time and you’ll be just fine.

    To get access the intake snorkel and the air cleaner were the first items to removed. I removed the battery because I operate better with more room and the battery stand makes a good tool holder shelf..

    Under the air cleaner are the 2 ea 10 mm bolts for its bracket which also holds the fuse box. Don’t forget the 8 mm bolt behind the fuse box too. BTW the fuse box has a removal bottom which just snaps off.

    To loosen the master cylinder (2 ea 13mm nuts) and the abs unit it’s attached to is a 2 step operation.
    The first being the unloosening of the master brake cylinder from the booster and secondly, the loosening of the ABS unit from its “L” shaped hanger (bracket?) 3ea 13mm bolts. I should mention here that having a 3” and a 6” racket extension was of great help!!

    The real key element to this booster removal is a small “L” shaped bracket that the ABS unit is bolted to from the underneath of this bracket, that is, the ABS unit hangs off this bracket. This bracket attaches to the inside fender wall w 3 ea 13mm bolts. I found that this bracket stopped me from pulling the bottom of the booster away from the firewall, although all the other pieces were loosened. Pictures of this are shown below from various angles. One must unbolt the ABS unit first, to get to the bracket bolts.

    As for the under the dash, the unhooking of the brake pedal assembly is done with one real easy clip and unfastening the 4 ea 13mm booster attachment nuts requires a deep socket 13mm. However there is one 13mm nut that is located behind the steering wheel shaft and was more easily removed with a 13mm wrench. BTW I did not need to remove the seat or any dashboard parts.

    This was the point I put on a long sleeve shirt.
    After unbolting of the booster you can manhandle/remove the booster. You have to push aside the master cylinder and the ABS. A fender protector is a good idea during this wrestling match.

    When installing the new booster be sure to remove and replace the cushion from the back of the old booster. I found that pushing the booster into position and attaching the brake pedal allowed me to jiggle the booster into its final position.

    Although AutoMD.com says that the booster replacement should take only 2 hours for us DIY guys you might want to plan for extra time to clean some of the parts your handling before re-installation.

    --If you encounter any nuts and bolts with rust on them be sure to apply penetrating oil (such as Blaster) before removal. (air cleaner bracket bolts!!)
    --You may want to apply anti-seize to any nuts or bolts that required penetrating oil.
    --Be sure to operate the brakes afterwards to confirm none of the brake piping or ABS couplings have leaked. None of mine did leak and I was pretty rough with the booster R&R.

    Booster Removal with just Mast Brake cyl & ABS loosened


    Booster removal with ECU removed


    Booster exposed and ready to be loosened from the interior brake pedal and firewall


    Fuse box plastic bottom panel


    “L” bracket that the ABS unit attaches to from underneath.


    Another view of the “L” bracket-from the top

  2. ImperialCrown

    Level III Supporter

    Jun 8, 2008
    That came through nicely. Good procedures and pictures. Well done. I agree with wearing a long-sleeved shirt and fender cover for this job :lol: .

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