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Dodge Daytona washer Fuel light and headlight problem

Discussion in 'Repairs, Maintenance, Help' started by HERMAN, Nov 29, 2017.

  1. HERMAN

    HERMAN Member

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    I have a 1990 Daytona ES V6 and having three electrical problems. First problem when I press the washer it does give a squirt out washer fluid and wipers come on but when the I let go of the washer button the wiper stay on and do not go into the park position like it did before. Only way to shut off the wipers is to turn on the wipers then shut off the wiper with the three speed wiper switch.

    Next problem Low fuel light stay on all of the time even when full. Is there a switch on fuel sending sensor in the gas tank that has gone bad or does the Body computer run the light??

    Last problem when I turn off the headlights with the ignition in the off position the hea light doors stay open and the head lights flash on and off at very fast rate. Only way I can get the the headlight doors closed is turn on the parking lights then turn off the parking light then the doors closed and headlights are off.

    I do have a DRB II with the CCD cable plus all of Diagnostic Procedures book including the Body computer trouble shooting book. The DRB II does not see return any fault codes at all. I even went through all the extensive procedures of check all wires going to the body computer for shorts, open circuit wires both voltage and ohms testing. I am an electronic tech by trade and I realize this is an odd problems have lots a patience and spent literally days tracing and testing wires. Only thing I have not tried is replacing the body computer as I would have to find one for sale.

    I have run out of ideas to what to check next.

    Has anyone solved any these problems or are there service bulletins for any these problems??

    Herman
     
  2. bamman

    bamman Part Connoisseur

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    The gauge pod on these cars have a higher than normal failure rate that would explain the headlight situation and possibly the wiper situation. For me, I re soldered all the connections on the pcb for the wiper and headlight switch but it did not help. I ended up getting a good used gauge pod which corrected the same headlight problem you are having. The following thread suggests a loose connector as a possible solution:

    T/S Switch 90-93 AG, 90-95 AJ Body - Page 2 - Turbo Dodge Forums : Turbo Dodge Forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Dodge Daytona, Dodge SRT-4, Chrysler PT Cruiser, Omni and more! (at http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f280/1079617-t-s-switch-90-93-ag-2.html#post4233697 )
     
    Bob Lincoln likes this.
  3. Scrounge

    Scrounge Well-Known Member

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    For the wipers, you might try removing the nut where the motor is grounded to the frame, then cleaning the nut and the stud with a wire brush. When I did that on my Dakota, the intermittent problem just about completely went away.

    As for the DRBII, your car should also send codes through the "key dance" (turn the ignition switch on-off-on-off-on, then count the CEL flashes). But the problems you described probably won't generate a code. Most of the codes then were emissions-related.
     
  4. valiant67

    valiant67 Rich Corinthian Leather
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    The DRB allows access to much more than engine codes. That being said, I’m not sure these are issues the DRB would diagnose.
     
  5. ImperialCrown

    Level III Supporter

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    The BCM may control the 3 or 4 wiper sweeps after the washer button is pushed. It would use the 'intermittent' or 'delay' wiper relay for this.
    Under Body, see State display. The wiper relay should show 'on' during the wiper sweeps. If the relay is latching on after the BCM state says 'off', then there is an issue. Try plugging in an adjacent relay to rule out a sticking relay.
    The h/lamp doors may also show under Body, state display or Inputs/Outputs. It almost sounds like a poor ground or motor closed switch is cycling.
    The low fuel lamp may also have a state display line in the Body menu. It is likely the tank sender failing.
     
    valiant67 likes this.
  6. Gerry G

    Gerry G Well-Known Member

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    For the fuel gauge, try running a bottle of Techron into the fuel tank when you fill up the next two times. Sometimes deposits form on the tank sensor and Techron has been known to remove the deposits and bring the sensor back to life.
     
  7. NEMopar

    NEMopar Active Member

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    I did note that you said you checked all the wires to the BCM, but wanted to note that I had a '93 Daytona with similar problems, and it turned out that I had a water leak that ran down/inside the wiring harness to the BCM, which allowed water to pool in the connector on top of the BCM. That was bad enough to corrode some of the connector pins and (probably) cause some shorts. I sealed it up with some plastic and zip ties, and that seemed to cure the problem.
     

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