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Fifth Avenue 1984 worth a restoration ?

Discussion in 'F-J-M: Volare, Diplomat, etc, 1977-89' started by Alain95i4, Mar 5, 2017.

  1. Alain95i4

    Alain95i4 Member

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    Hello

    My grand father passed a few weeks ago at the age of 99 yrs
    the family could give me his car
    it's a Chrysler Fifth Avenue from the early to mid 80's not sure of the year yet
    it's currently not running and it was not registered for the last 7 or 8 years
    always kept in a garage
    it was a project of mine to restore for it's 100 yrs birthday and I bought some parts last year when a similar car was at my local U pill yard, (chrome molding from the driver side , 1 missing 1 is rotten) plus a set or rear lights (one is broken)
    not sure of the mileage yet but I think it has barely above 100k kms (65K to 70K miles)
    I think it's a 318 2 barrels

    it was towed to my parents house this morning, first time in years that the car is outside
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    long time chrysler guy but always into small block (2.2/2.5 2.0/2.4 dohc) working on an old V8 will be something new to me
    currently doesn't start, it will surely need new disks and pads, a drum job in the rear, my mom told the suspension was really noisy the car is probably still on the original struts !
    tires and battery for sure

    so is it worth the money and the effort ?
    interior is really clean too
     
  2. ImperialCrown

    Level III Supporter

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    I'm sure that the car has some value, although really not a collectable. They are simple compared to today's cars, ride nice and are fairly economical on the highway. Parts are still mostly available.
    The RWD 5th Ave didn't change much throughout its life and share a lot with the other M-cars.
    I would certainly evaluate what you have there.
     
    Doug D likes this.
  3. CudaPete

    Ad-Free Member

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    If you like it and it reminds you of your grandfather then have it. Don't do it as an investment though. No money to be made here. No struts. Torsion bars, leaf springs and shock absorbers.
     
  4. geraldg

    Ad-Free Member

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    You got it for free so if you put a couple of hundred in it, you will be ahead. Also if you don't want it go to For FMJ bodies only and somebody will buy it that wants it.
     
  5. Alain95i4

    Alain95i4 Member

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    I saw it up close today
    body is rought
    it's a 1984 , 120k kms
    it will need a paint job because of the rust
    thinking ...

    driver side is the worst
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    interior is ok
    [​IMG]
     
  6. peterjon1

    peterjon1 Well-Known Member

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    Make sure the underbody is structurally sound. If it is, and if it were my grandfather's car, I'd fix it. Seeing the rubber plug in the last picture makes me believe that there was rustproofing applied inside the rocker panels, so the rust may not be too bad. Carefully check the brake and fuel lines before you drive it.
    Any mechanical parts you may need should be readily available.
     
    Bob Lincoln likes this.
  7. AvengerGuy

    AvengerGuy Active Member

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    Looks like it's still a pretty decent car. Would think it is worth sinking a little money into, as it should last for quite some time. They were pretty solid, comfortable and dependable cars. I love those very comfortable seats.
     
    Bob Lincoln likes this.
  8. goair99

    goair99 Active Member

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    Congrats! I guess you have to decide how much this car means to you. Do you want to fix her up, in memory of your Grandpa, as a long term project $$$$ or just clean her up and sell her? Trust me, I have a totally rust free Florida 5th with only 40,000 miles on her and my project list is still long. It seems like there is constantly something that needs to be done, but I bought her as a long term investment of 10 to 20 years.
     
  9. valiant67

    valiant67 Rich Corinthian Leather
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    It's a dilemma.
    The sentimental value is probably a lot more than the actual value of the car.
    With rust, you could probably buy a nicer, rust free car cheaper than you could fix what you have. But then it's not the same car.
    That's why I still have my 1979 Cordoba, when I've found nicer examples. You can't replace the sentimental value.
     
    Doug D likes this.
  10. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    That rust isn't bad, but must be fixed before painting. A professional repair will likely run into several thousand dollars. But I have done repairs like this at home, using galvanized steel from the hardware store, industrial epoxy and rivets, and several different rust inhibitors, primers and paints with good, long lasting results. You can repair it cheaply if you are willing to put about 50-80 hours of your own time into it. Good luck, it's a great car and worth fixing.
     
  11. Scrounge

    Scrounge Well-Known Member

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    Is your purpose to drive or show? If you don't care how the body looks, it will make a nice driver, though gas mileage will be worse than a 4-cylinder. I'd address the mechanical issues first. After sitting for years, you should drain the gas tank. Examine the filler tube for rust. If it has it, you'll either want to remove the tank and have it boiled out, or replace it with a clean one from a junkyard. Afterward, replace the gas filter. On that car, is the gas filter between the fuel pump and carb, or before the fuel pump? If the former, you might want to add one before the fuel pump.

    Where is the suspension noise coming from? That should be addressed, too. Shocks are easy enough to replace. Rust may have deteriorated other components.
     
  12. Alain95i4

    Alain95i4 Member

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    If I'm putting the car back on the road it's to keep it and use it once in a while in the summer
    I have not seen rust perforation but the sheet metal could be weak in some rust spot
    I can do light body works and some mecanics but carburetor/lean burn/distributor etc is something new to me
    No clue where the noise come from , my mom was one of the last to drive the car years ago and she's the one who told me about a noise in the front
    that car is probably still on the factory shocks I can't drive the car until it is registered again and for that I need to have a legal inspection done on the car and it won't pass inspection as is right now and the tires are probably 15 years old
    the tank is really close to be completely empty as soon as I turn the key the yellow warning go on and the gauge barely moves

    the car was rustproof with a thick oil almost every years from the purchase in 1984 to late 90 , the engine bay is covered with dried oil turned into sticky mud
    I haven't seen the underbody yet
     
    #12 Alain95i4, Mar 6, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2017
  13. pt006

    pt006 Active Member

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    Alain; I would talk to a local garage that knows about rust problems and is willing to look at your car and if ok is willing to sign a paper stating that the car's frame structure will pass inspection. -----OR----- With good jackstands underneath, you can do a visual inspection yourself. Heavy scaly rust is bad. Inspect closely around the torsion bars and rear spring mounts.

    The outer body rust looks strange to me. Previous body work? High humidity? Primer problem? This car may be better than you think.

    Sweet interior!
     
  14. Rickorino

    Rickorino Well-Known Member

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    That front fender will disintegrate when sanded and would need replacement or sheet metal work.If the car has some sentimental value to you, it would be good for some restoration if you can do the work yourself otherwise, it would cost a small fortune to fix up. You will not make money on it, there would be a negative as far as ROI. Generally, any 4 door sedan will not really appreciate in any value. Before you put anything in it, see if the engine isn't locked up and crawl underneath and see what shape the box frame is in. They tended to rot out just behind the front wheels. It would be scrap if the frame is shot. The leaf springs did tend to end up in the trunk too.
     
    #14 Rickorino, Mar 7, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2017
  15. Citation84

    Citation84 Well-Known Member

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    If it's solid mechanically and it means something to you, go for it.

    Had I any of my parent's cars available in like condition, personally I wouldn't hesitate : 50 Studebaker Starlight, 72 Ambassador Brougham, 71 Gremlin, 77 Fury, 62 Rambler Classic and 63 Dart wagons, even their 84 Olds Ciera and 78 Subaru. 66 Mercury Montclair that was my first love, without question.
     
  16. Scrounge

    Scrounge Well-Known Member

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    If it had been rustproofed that often, the frame and suspension shouldn't be a major concern, but inspect them anyway.

    I still advise draining the gas tank, no matter how little gas is in it. Gas doesn't age well, and if you try starting the car with any old gas remaining, you'll experience lots of stalling, rough running, and who knows what other problems. If it's completely empty, lucky you, but chances are that at least a gallon is in it.

    The distributor should be electronic, which means it won't have points to replace and adjust. You might occasionally have to replace the rotor and cap. And wires. You might check the owner's manual for those intervals. While you're at it, inspect the spark plugs, and if they need replacing, use Champions.

    1984 was the last year for the Carter BBD carburetor. If you're lucky, that's what it has, but it more likely has a Holley, perhaps a 2280 or 6280 model. If you remove the air cleaner housing, the Holley opening should be a complete circle; the Carter will be about a 2/3 circle with a straight line on the radiator side. With so much ethanol in today's gasoline, the carb will have to be rebuilt more often. Or are you in Canada, and if so, is ethanol in your gasoline? Speaking of the radiator, the cooling system is another area to inspect for rust, crud, dirt, and anything else that shouldn't be in it. After you flush it, make sure to use the green coolant that's specifically for it. NAPA still sells it, and one of the Xerex options should work.

    Does it come with a factory service manual? If not, obtaining one is advisable. I saw one for '85 Chryslers at a used bookstore some time ago for cheap. Your car was essentially the same from 1982 to 1989, so a manual from any of those years should work, but one from your specific model year would be best.
     
  17. valiant67

    valiant67 Rich Corinthian Leather
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    BBD stayed through 1984. Holley came in 1985 with the roller cam and high swirl heads.
     
  18. ClayBelt40's

    ClayBelt40's Member

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    It's an interesting car, but unless it means something to you sentimentally I would suggest ditching it for something a bit more intriguing/older.
     
  19. bguy

    bguy Well-Known Member

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    Use a trolley jack under the frame or the suspension. The factory jacking points under the rocker panels sometimes collapse even if they don't look any worse than those so I would advise against using them. Nice highway cruiser but won't be very economical around town. I wouldn't do it as a daily driver. I would use it for sunny days or special occasions. Great if you can put it inside somewhere and deal with one thing at a time.
     
  20. pt006

    pt006 Active Member

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    Check the frame first. Most anything else can be fixed or replaced.
     

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