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Gimme a Brake! ( Compass rear Caliper )

Discussion in 'Compacts: Renegade, Patriot, Compass, Caliber' started by bguy, Jan 27, 2016.

  1. bguy

    bguy Well-Known Member

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    Hi all,
    Last fall when our 2011 Compass was in for oil change the tech said the front brakes were "getting there". I knew since the pedal was low that everything needed to be cleaned up anyway so here was the incentive to do it. Everything went well and I like the slider pin set up better than that on the Ram which has the short pins.
    Today it was in for oil again and I wanted to rotate the tires and clean up the rear brakes since I felt the pedal was still a bit low. WOW! What a set up! It still has the same longer pins as the front calipers. Whoever put the rear brakes on it before didn't bother to clean anything up. I had to put a pipe on the ratchet to get the slider pins out. The upper pins have me puzzled the most. The head is behind the brake hose. Well, not the hose as such, it's behind the metal fitting that attaches to the caliper. I couldn't get a ratchet on there nor a ring wrench. I didn't dream the spanner would get it loose. I managed to drive a 14mm socket on with my hammer. I still had to unscrew the pin past this metal fitting. It almost seems that you need to remove the brake hose to replace the brake pads. That's mental! Who came up with this set up? Is this typical of Jeep ( my first one ) or was this particular bit of lunacy reserved for this particular vehicle? It almost seems the brake hose needed to be angle at the end but that wasn't possible. I gave up on the passenger side since I could see it needs new pads. The inner shot and the outer almost new.
    Does anyone have advice to the proper procedure?
     
  2. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator
    Level III Supporter

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    It is probably the same procedure for the Dodge Caliber (PM) with rear disc brakes. Yes the brake hydraulics have to be opened, but they have you start by using a rod against the driver's seat cushion to hold the brake pedal depressed. This will keep fluid from draining out of the m/cyl while you work on it. You should only lose a small amount of fluid and you can lay down a rag to soak up whatever does spill.
    Note that the lower caliper bolt has a collar on the shank and has to be reinstalled in the lower position.
    See p. 5-44 here (large file):
    http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service Manuals/2007_PM_Caliber/2007-PM-SM.pdf
     
  3. bguy

    bguy Well-Known Member

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    Good job IC.
    P 45 diagram #8182f098 shows the exact situation. This section describes rebuilding the caliper. A few pages ahead suggests swiveling the caliper around the upper pin to change the pads. They also had the pin with collar installed in the top mount, which is correct for the front. The pin with the collar has a higher head making it closer to the hose fitting preventing me from getting a wrench on it.

    In my estimation I can remove the caliper adaptor caliper and all. I should then be able to slide the caliper pins and all off the adaptor. This should allow me to get a wrench on the head without the spring in the way.

    Thank-You. You are one of the most helpful people on the internet.
     
  4. MPE426HEMI

    MPE426HEMI Well-Known Member

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    Yes, this is the same set up as the rear brakes on the Dodge Avenger. The flex hose needs to be removed from the caliper to remove the upper guide pin. What this results in is this pin being seized in the guide due to no mechanic wanting to disconnect the hose to clean or apply lube to it. It is indeed a stupid set up, one you can shake your head at. A real GM move.
     
  5. link3721

    link3721 Yes, This MK Goes Off-Road

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    They must've changed the setup for the 2011s. I didn't remove any brake lines when I inspected pads (front and back) on my 2009 Patriot. Was able to get the calipers off no problem.
     
  6. MPE426HEMI

    MPE426HEMI Well-Known Member

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    I am not a 100% sure, because I never had the wheels off the thing yet, but looking through the wheel, it looks like the same PITA rear caliper set up on my 2016 Patriot, that is on my 2011 Avenger. You can take the caliper off by removing the caliper carrier along with the caliper, but you can't get the top guide pin out because the brake flex hose is in the way. You can't get a socket on it or box end wrench. Only open end. If it's seized in, that won't work.
     
    #6 MPE426HEMI, Jun 7, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2016
  7. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    I'm told I'll face that situation on my wife's 2012 Chrysler 200 when I do the brakes this month.
     
    MPE426HEMI likes this.
  8. MPE426HEMI

    MPE426HEMI Well-Known Member

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    The problem with it is, other than a bad placement of the flex hose, is that if you've got garages or dealerships doing brakes for you, then they'll never take that guide pin out to lube it or check it. Just because who want's to be disconnecting brake hoses when you don't have to be. So the guide pin stays in there and over time seizes. That's what happened to my Avenger because I bought it used. The back brakes weren't being applied because the guide pin was not sliding. Of course when I looked at it to check wear, I realized what was going on and it wasn't the back brakes when I hit the pedal. They'd hardly grab the rotor. I then had a WTF moment when I went to replace the guide pins. Add to that I couldn't get a six point socket on the pin because the upper one has the hose in the way and it's not just the rubber hose, it's the mounting block and crimp. Nor could I get a box end wrench on it. And of course the open end only rounds the hex off, so after a lot of cursing I had to take the flex hose off, which I never want to do unless I absolutely have to. My advice is if you have a new vehicle that you're doing the brakes on for the first time, yourself, is to loosen the top guide bolt, pull the bottom one and rotate the caliper up enough to remove the pads. The top pin should thread out enough to let go of the carrier because it is only threaded on the end where the nut is. You should be able to slide the caliper out of that carrier now with the top pin still in the caliper. My advice is to make sure that top pin is always lubed well every brake replacement and never seize on the guide pin threads. This way you may luck into it lasting a long time and never having to disconnect that flex line, unless absolutely necessary. That's what I plan on doing on my 2016 Patriot.
     
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  9. MPE426HEMI

    MPE426HEMI Well-Known Member

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    I forgot to add, you don't have the caliper carrier in the way on this rear brake set up, so taking the rotor off is only a matter of removing the lower caliper guide pin, rotating the caliper up, out of the way and the rotor is all clear to remove. Also, you don't have to take the carrier off to remove the caliper, even with the top guide pin attached. Just remove the lower pin, rotate caliper up and the caliper top guide pin will slide out of the carrier with the caliper attached. Clean and lube these pins well.
    The flex hose threads into the top of the caliper just like any other hard line connection and no copper crush washers are needed.
     
  10. Bambam

    Bambam Member

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    Hello. So I just did the brakes on my wife's compass and that line placement on the rear calipers is so special it hurts. The best solution I came up with after alot of frustration and some head banging was this. DO NOT TOUCH THE TOP CALIPER BOLT / PIN. Take out the bottom caliper bolt / pin. Then I took off the bottom carrier bolt then the top carrier bolt. You'll probably need a extension for the top. I did on mine. After you take off the carrier and caliper together. Take the caliper in one hand and the carrier in the other. Turn them approximately 90 degrees apart to clear the carrier pad. Then I was able to pull them apart. With the top caliper bolt / pin still fully in the carrier I was able to clean and lube the pin. Then change the pads and rotor as need then start from the last step and work backwards to put it together.
     

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