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Got A '69 Valiant (4dr.) Signet!

Discussion in 'A Body: Duster, Valiant, Dart, etc' started by Volunteer, Nov 9, 2004.

  1. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    Hi, guys. Just a note to wish everyone a fine 2009 holiday season. :)
    I have the Valiant garaged for the winter and definitely will continue working on it prior to Easter, 2010. I will finish the bodywork and prime and paint it (the factory B7) myself. It has sat for too long and I won't let any more excuses get in the way. :unsure: I tentatively plan to insure it for July through October and it better be done. I changed my signature Link slightly so you can view some of the other vehicles in my small harem. The PowerWagon I worked on last Aug/Sept is on a separate Link. Since I cannot create a shortcut (due to the 'one URL' rule) you can optionally type (onto your address bar) .
    As of today I am still seeking the early Hemi oil filter adapter, as updated on the Parts Wanted thread.
    Thanks for putting up with my occassional drivel but remember also that in all the time I have been a member here on Allpar I have absorbed a LOT more info than I've given out. I cannot begin to thank all those who've contibuted to my education. :blush:
    As circumstances do not permit me to log-in daily (or even weekly), anyone wishing to contact me should email instead of messaging. In the meantime, have a healthy, productive and safe 2010.
     
    Bearhawke likes this.
  2. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    Well, if you go back to msg. no. 118, (also on Sept.8-06) you can get a summary of all the work done. Regretfully, not a lot has been accomplished since then. But, if you 'click' on {My link} you will notice that the photos are indeed there, albeit a couple years late. I promise to shuffle my priorities this spring and get going on the Signet. One interesting facet will be "how I restored and painted the rear bumper - when all else failed."
    You can get the (Bumper) link to some photos off msg.154 back on Feb.22-09.
     
  3. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    Hi. Just a note to say that I have (tentatively) resumed to work on the Signet. The lower, rear quarters are next and then the minor (pesky) dings on the right upper quarter. I also have some improving to do at the right, rear spring hanger area although it is only 'cosmetic' at this time.

    I am still looking at getting a new compressor - the best deal so far is a 6.5 [at]40/5.5 [at]90 for under $500. Thanks, and don't hesitate to email or message me for comments or ideas.
     
  4. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    Well it's the end of June already and I am still in a bit of a holding pattern. I did get a small but adequate compressor ($350. value for just over $200.) that will be good enough for the lighter spraying and priming. I also have a huge reserve tank and should be able to do some intermittent blasting. The capacity is between 5 and 7 CFM and I have access to larger unit should the need arise. I do not need to spend $1500. or more on the perfect compressor just to paint one $500. car when there are people in my area who will spray it in a booth for less than $400. We'll see. First things, first. In the meantime I have parted with many specialty items through eBay or Kijiji to help finance the little extras necessary to get the Signet up and running. (user-name there is ). My biggest nemesis at this point in time is finding enough hours in a day to allocate to my hobbies. I may not be able to do much on the car until early Sept. but will do what I can, when I can. I have a large piece of 18-gauge metal to fabricate the lower quarters but this will take more time to do without access to specialty tools. I will take more photos as changes happen and then add them to My Link.
    Thanks for reading and please enjoy a safe Canada Day and Independence Day.
     
  5. Bearhawke

    Bearhawke Things happen for a reason

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    Bummer about the quarter panels there: not so long ago I knew of several rustfree 1969 Valiant 4 door sedans being junked here in the Phx area. Just that it may have cost more $$$ than said quarter sections factoring in shipping/duties, etc. :(
     
  6. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    :facepalm: Well there you go. Another 17 days between Log-Ins. When I do win the Lottery I will buy everyone travel/tickets/accomodation to either Columbus or Carlisle. (the Nats are still on, aren't they?) Usual slow going here. I'm still seeking out various new/used parts but only so many hours in a day. I can only imagine (and salivate) about the dry cars in the south-west. So many jurisdictions are now buying back and 'crushing' the classics that there may be nothing left sooner than we think. I've always been an advocate of repairing as opposed to replacing and that certainly include body parts. I have some 22-gauge metal also and it's significantly thinner and potentially easier to 'manipulate' (than the 18-gauge stuff). I will probably go from the bottom upwards to just below the 'crease' which is about 5 inches up. The factory (sheet metal) is not all that thick. I checked many areas such as around the side markers where both sides are in good shape and it seems to be in the 20-22 guage area. Maybe someone with first-hand knowledge will know more about this.
    As I said before, it can be challenging at best to work with the heavier-gauge material, especially without the right equipment. One of our local 'tool-places' has some nice sheet-metal fabricating 'tools' and all I can do is browse, contemplate and wipe away a tear or two. :mellow:
     
  7. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    Okay, so it is about time I update, with winter well underway, although it is a dry and green Christmas right here and temperature over 50-f. I hope you all are fine and to those who follow my (often) rambling posts, a special Happy Holidays and all the best in 2011. Some of the Old Guard seem to have faded away but with all the other internet possibilities and sites (such as Facebook, MySpace, Twitter etc.,) it is no surprise. There are only so many hours in a day and some of us have priorities (as I am sure I posted more than once). :rolleyes:
    Like a year ago, the Challenger and Daimler are tucked away nice and dry outdoors while the Signet gets the snug but cozy garage. I am determined to finally get going on it again come Feb. I do not need room-temperature to do the metal work so that will be done first. Then there will be a pause in March to do some misc. work on the old Power Wagon. I got rid of a few items thru Kijiji the past couple months and the $ will go into the Signet war-chest. I listed my (std.) 340 block, crank, rods and pan - valued at $500., and sought out an A-body disc conversion plus the Large-Bolt 7.25 rear in trade and had over 600 views in about 4 months but no serious contacts. The few good blocks left in this province have been commanding (and selling for) $600. for up to 3 years now and the majority, via research, are already at 30-thou. I also offered my pieces for a full set of the small-bolt rallyes but if I am successful at getting the wheel (flanges) upgraded then I can use my own 14 by 5.5 Magnum 500s, (which arguably would look sharper anyway on the B7 blue sedan). I will consider re-posting my ad come springtime to seek out the first-time viewers. Long distance shipping is likely cost-prohibitive but, by the rare chance a rather close-by member happens to read this, email me and we can talk. The other item of significant value I may seek out a new home for is the fibreglass front end piece for the 1972 - 74 Challengers.
    Once again, all of you please enjoy a safe remainder of 2010 and all the best in 2011. :)
     
  8. Bearhawke

    Bearhawke Things happen for a reason

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    What sucks is I almost picked up a complete 1975 Valiant 4 door with discs, 318, etc. Car didn't run but for $400 US and clean title, who cared? Why I backed out of the deal was I decided to not get a 1963-66 narrow body hence not needing the above Valiant parts car. My point being is that complete donor cars pop up from time to time :)
     
  9. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    I've seen some interesting stuff (but no Mopars yet) show up on American Pickers. :blink:

    One of my New Years resolutions was to Log In to Allpar once at least once a week (not the usual 6-8 weeks) so I'd better get my act together. (is January over yet?) :facepalm: :lol:
     
  10. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    :deadhorse: Well, I have finally found some extra hours in a normal day to get going again on this nasty body. I will add more photos to the Photoshare as soon as I get them out of the camera. They are not pretty because I am in the metal working stage. I decided to go with the heavier (18-guage) rather than the thin (22). I figure the OEM is in-between, and that is the un-molested metal. As I type this, I have completed fabrication of both lower rear quarters and the lower flange areas. I will then do the inner portions so as not to cause trouble after proceding with the skiff of putty as the prep work continues.
    I still have no leads towards a replacement rear bumper so may (waste more time and) grind out the damage and fill it, etc. Same thing with wheels. It would be nice to 'trash-can' the silly 13 inchers but she needs something on her 'feet' for now. We are well into summer so time will be an issue. I would be happy to finish the paint by mid-August but if it goes into Sept. there will not be insurance on it this year. Also, within the past two years, all of our paint formulation has changed so I will NOT be able to purchase more of the Omni acrylic enamel. I can still use what I have but it is also harder to get the proper reducer. I do NOT want to do a 'two-stage' process. Once I get more info I can decide on a course of action. I still have the engine to come out in order to detail said compartment. I could not drive it as-is anyway because the water pump began 'rattling' inside a couple years ago so I took the belt off. Some of you who have followed my 'blog' since day-one may recall that I have not insured (driven) this vehicle since the fall of 2005. yikes! Until I get the direct Link to the Signet photos, just go to the bottom left of this page and 'Click' on the blue My LInk.
    Anyway, thanks for checking in and I hope to continue - again as time permits. :working:
     
  11. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    It's a good thing I am not paying myself by the hour, otherwise I'd be in debt for a long time. :wacko: Still plugging along but too many summertime priorities and issues to contend with. I do not have deep pockets (as I've always implied). This started out as a $200. car and with an influx of $500. for the entire body and paint it will still be valued at less than $1500. But, having said this, the 'real' value to me will continue to be more than monetary. I have had my experiences with and fulfillment of 'show cars' and with today's insurance, misc. operating costs and the sky-high penalties for (inevitable) moving violations, it makes little sense to purchase and drive something capable of speeds well over 120 mph. In my present jurisdiction, IF you are caught speeding in excess of 25 mph above the posted speed (ie. 80 in a 55 zone), you can (and likely will) be fined $480. and lose your vehicle for a week. It happened again only yesterday in a small town 80 miles north of here when a (not sure what year) 'Vette went through a radar trap doing 130 kms. in a 60 km. zone. That would be about 43 mph. OVER the posted speed limit. It has become too easy to simply go to a dealership and come away with an expensive, fast car only to drive it around the countryside at (legal) speeds I can nearly rival with my bicycle. :pullhair: Sometimes we are blessed with a nice, smooth, winding roadway that is totally devoid of law-enforcement where there is fun to be had without having to put the pedal down and leave it there. Of course if I had the opportunity to restore a 'numbers' car once again, I would seriously try to work it into my schedule but the real fun is having an antique (econo) Mopar that has insignificant monetary value and needs little work other than the usual maintenance costs. This is what I like about the diverse rides of the Allpar members. Some of these vehicles appeal to only the owners (and the select few of us who truly understand). 'Investing' $40.grand or more on a total resto does not guarantee you come home with trophies and prizes every time you attend a Show 'n Shine'. I used to travel to these venues mainly to see the other cars and meet and mingle with the owners and their families. That will never change.
    Drive 'em today lest they be crushed tomorrow. :thumbsup:
     
  12. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    Yes, I am still alive and (reasonably) well. I won't lament about how I am unable to log-in as much as the next guy. We all have priorities but I for one do not put (the priorities) on a back-burner. It is a decision that leaves me with little free time - - - lest I survive on 2-4 hours of sleep. I have been able to check the Motorsports/Nascar topics every couple weeks and, as of today, not much has happened except for rumours and more rumours. Like most of you, I will wait until 'mid-summer' to see if WE will have car(s) and / or driver(s) to cheer for in 2013.
    Any hoo, I am (yet again) proceeding with the 're-furbishing' of the loveable Signet. I have all the (8) door hinges, total of 16 pieces, prepped and hanging and ready for paint. These I am doing with Acrylic (single-stage) as well as I am going to do the engine compartment, trunk floor, under hood and trunk and eventually the door-jambs. There is polishing and some repainting (trunk) after that and then I can move onto the main carcass - which is of course the main body shell (sans doors, fenders, hood and trunk. There were some problems I brought on myself last September because I had assumed that Urethane was just as easy as Acrylic to mix and apply. I let my guard down and it cost me extra time and money. Oh, and I do know the definition of assumption - from Under Siege-2.
    As usual, I will take plenty of photos and (eventually) add them to my Photoshare (re:MyLink). I may or may not remove engine this year to better detail compartment (plus engine itself) or, that may wait until '13. It is all about those priorities again, single father with 8 year old girl and presently 'semi-retired'. Truthfully? Life really couldn't be much better. Oh, and there is still the matter of the rear bumper so if I do not get a replacement in time I will proceed to plan-B.
    Finally, we did manage a nice road trip in early June and there was a parade of high school grads in Nelson, BC, (my home town), that consisted of a wide variety of old and new vehicles. One of several caught my eye and it looked to be an early sixties Valiant rag-top. I never got a chance to see it up close but did take one photo as it passed. Fast-forward five weeks later, to July 14, and, while attending the annual Hot July Car Show in 100 Mile House, BC. (just Google it) I was treated to yet another ('63) Ragtop. This one i of course got to see up close and took a few photos. If anyone (must be one or two) of you wishes to see either of these cars, please email me and I will do my best to forward the pics. Thanks as usual for viewing this rather mundane 'blog' and I will update as often as something changes. Have a great rest of July. :working:
     
  13. Bearhawke

    Bearhawke Things happen for a reason

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    Volunteer: thanks for checking in. :)
     
  14. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    Okay, I am back again after finally posting about 70 more pictures on the Photoshare. Just click on My Link below. I seem to take two steps forward and one step back when it comes to making last-minute decisions and changes. Some things I would do differently if starting all over. The weather was a bigger factor than I anticipated as for example, the temperature in my garage would be at a low of 75 degrees in the a.m. and then rise to just over 85 by 2 or 3 p.m. I would mix a quart of paint at a ratio of 4-3-1, using a medium reducer and on one occassion, I could not do any painting until 4 hours later, with temp. already over 80. (bad idea). I should have used the slow reducer instead. It worked out well, though, as I had to play with the adjustments and even add extra reducer to allow the paint to smooth out before setting up too quick. In a perfect world we would all have access to state-of-the-art spray booths with several thousand C.F.M.'s of down-draft venting and full sides and top lighting. But, I just remind myself that this is a fun, learning project undertaken on a $200. car that is only one of over 13,000 (of this model and year) manufactured. There is an old rule that states it is bad business to invest more $ on a vehicle resto than that particular vehicle is ultimately worth. BUT, at the end of the day, this is a two-owner car with original brakes, steering components, suspension (and shocks), water and fuel pumps, timing gears, carpet, radiator, carb, door hinge pins (tight) and more. I confirmed in June of 2009 that it indeed has 36,000 original miles (NOT 136k.) So, if all goes fairly well I should have the pieces re-assembled before end of August. It may prove to be a challenge to duplicate the near perfect door, fender trunk and hood alignment settings so I will try to be optimistic and patient. thanks for reading this and stay tuned and have a good rest of the month yourselves. :drive:
     
  15. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    As September, 2012, brings shorter daylight hours and cooler nights, I have had this fine automobile licenced since Aug.25. It will expire on Nov.24 but by that time it is likely that our first taste of winter will have already come. The anticipated body-part alignment issues were basically a non-issue. I worked on the right side, beginning with the rear door. The only delay I encountered was mixing up the parts of the upper hinges which interferred with proper closing but it was easily rectified. It was not a big deal to set up clearances and then adjust the latch pins. I moved onto the front door and it also went easier than expected. The fender was also a non-issue in spite of the studs and washers that sat in a big pile (on magnetic tray) for over a year. Even the fender bottom was quick to align. It is no big deal to have to re-adjust either front door hinge once the fender is in place because, without the inner shields, easy access is gained via the wheel opening. The upper bolts were still a bit of a pain because they are accessed from under the dash ends and, especially on the left side, there are wires in that area. A good tip is to have several ratchets, sockets and extentions within easy reach. The left side also went quite well with the most delay being the rear door - for no special reason. Just prior to the hood going in place, I took several measurements so there would be adequate clearance between both fenders. Although the door/fender hanging can be a one-person job, it is highly recommended that two people install the hood. But, just as we were about to carry hood, wouldn't you know that I could not locate fasteners. As I also discovered when preparing the trunk to go on, there were missing latches, bolts, and the special metal fastening strips that insert into each of the trunk hinge arms. (or whatever they are called). You will see what I am referring to in some of the photos. Anyway, it was time to align the hood at sides and corners and that also went surprisingly fast. The latch, snubbers and those front screw adjuster pieces were all m.i.a. for a full day and almost by magic, they all materialized on the garage shelf where I would (or should) have expected them to be. I should also mention that prior to the doors going back in place, I spent more precious time detailing the four (soft aluminum) sill plates. There should also be photos of this. It was much like working on the grill and rear of trunk piece. I had earlier debated with myself whether or not I would re-install the wheel opening moldings since they likely would need significant time to get back to a semblance of respectability. The fronts were not too bad but the rears exhibited more than their fair share of nicks and dings, plus, the surfaces which mate to the body itself (where screws go) had corroded over time. But, with select chemicals and materials and approx. 3-4 hours of time, I got all of them back to an 8 out of 10 condition (from the 4-6) as prior. I can later polish them better, just as I will do with the body panels as well. But, as I stated before, this is not a Roger Gibson or Legendary Auto. restoration project. Case and point. I drove the car to daughter's primary school on friday afternoon to pick up her, a classmate and grandma. We then drove only one block and one of the kids noticed new Mustang GT following us. Right away I got to thinking - "hmm, value of Mustang equal to about 50 of my Signets". Now, which would I rather have? As I mentioned in the Photoshare text (My Link), this car is so quiet, smooth and easy to drive. I have not had even one performance-related issue so far, although it's only seen 120 miles over the previous 3 weeks. All the lights and gauges work - except for light inside O.E.M. (a.m. radio). Also, the (variable-speed) wipers, washer, horns and heater/blower system are operating perfectly. The rad pressures up and recovers from over-flow when cooling down and I took care of pesky oil leak in the (Borg-Warner) tranny cooler that I added prior to front end pieces. The car has sat in same place for the past two weeks without even one drop of any fluid leaking. Remember, this is a 43 yr. old vehicle with original rear crank seal. I am pretty sure that the tranny has not been out and more than likely serviced 'in-car', with the last documented servicing in 2001. One other thing I noticed was that there is definitely a 'part-throttle kickdown' and I was pretty sure this feature was not available until 1971. I can check on this but it will take time to find my sources. Now, as I wind this post up, I am considering carpet replacement come spring, 2013, and am still seeking a better bumper. There are many more photos to add to the 196 so far so please check back every few days. Sometimes I download them on one computer and then cannot locate them if I happen to be using a different computer. One more thing to mention before leaving is that I checked my maintenance records from 7 years ago and apparently did replace the front brake shoes (and small parts) because I wanted to repack the bearings and of course the drums had to come off to do this. I did purchase rear shoes (and small parts) at that time but did not install them. There is still 40% lining left. Well, that's about it for now. Hopefully I can put a few miles on during the coming weeks because this car is so easy and fun to drive. One stumbling block is current price of gas which sits at $1.32 per liter, or $5.98 per (CDN) gallon or $4.78 per (U.S.) gallon. (sigh). But, the mileage should be 200 - 300% better than the 383 Power Wagon, not to mention the fun-factor. Oh, and before I forget, I would also like to put out feelers for the front-left hood 'Plymouth' emblem and possibly (fender) Valiant/Signet emblem. I do have one of the fender pieces and should have the other because an older photo shows it as installed. If anyone can help with this, just email me. I have metal Challenger emblems (as on fender and trunk) to possibly trade. Have a good rest of Sept. :thumbsup:
     
  16. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    Another month has come and gone again seemingly so fast. I will probably park the Signet sooner than later so I can get a head start on the spring maintenance. We don't drive much this time of year anyway as it is only a few weeks before first snow and all the lakes will be freezing over. I would need the truck for winter - even at 9 or 10 mpg. It is already to go with just a few fluids to check and replace. One thing that did happen (to the Signet) was some 'stuff' getting past the fuel filter and jamming up the Idle-feed port. Coming down from one of the area's 4500 ft. lakes, it ran just fine, although a bit rich at altitude, Then as we got into the stop and go city traffic it would not idle properly and I pretty much knew what it could be. Problem was, where and why? Once in my yard I played with the idle mixture screw and it would not respond. I waited a couple days until I got a spare kit ($23.00) in case gaskets or diaphams got messed up. I blew out all passages and re-assembled and, since this happened 3 weeks ago it has been running fine. But, I did replace the fuel filter (between pump and carb) and drained and cut open the old one. There was lots of really fine 'dirt' and the paper element was loose inside so some of the 'dirt' would bypass it. Yes, the smart thing would have been to replace the filter prior to insuring in August.
    The latest significant trip we took was only a couple days ago was to an annual steam-powered antique farm and forestry implement show. Now that was a hoot - much more to see than I expected. The place was about a 90 mile round trip and the car did run just fine and the power level seemed normal and it used not much over 3 (3.7 U.S.) gallons of gas. But, like when carb idle circuit was restricted, it began to stumble as idle speed. This is a bit different, though. It was not a stalling issue but definitely more like a bad plug or wire. I ruled both these out soon enough and, unfortunately, it is a bit more serious. I suspect a head gasket or, in worst case, broken piston ring(s) in number 6. Other symptoms when idling were oil being leaked from (slide on) filler cap and, when cap was removed from cover, there was significant 'pulsing' blow-by. Yesterday I did a leak-down and compression test and (number 6) failed both. All the others were an even 125 lbs. and the % leakage between 30 and 40. Yes, they are all probably over-due for remedial action, which I hoped to do spring of '13 anyway. This engine has not been out in 43 years so it is long over-due. Only a few days prior to all this I rigged up a good manual oil pressure gage to do some tests. When cold it would be 60 at fast idle and when fully warmed it was an even 40 at curb idle and then 35 in Drive.
    So, it looks like I have some tinkering to do this winter and next spring. Hopefully all the clearances will be acceptable and there will be little or no machining costs. I know the head was supposedly reconditioned 11 years ago and I will do lots of checking and measuring. If anything significant is discovered I will be sure to post the info.
    Finally, before I forget, I have still not located a decent rear bumper, the front-left 'Plymouth' call-out OR replacement small bolt wheels. I did get contact from a couple sources right in my area but neither have replied to me after my own repeated responses. Have a good remainder of October. :working:
     
  17. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    Happy Holidays (and Merry Christmas) to all who regularly visit these 'blogs'. I am amazed at how long I have been able to keep this up - now in the 9th. year. :cheers:
    I had not done much at all between last post, until end of November, due mainly to schedule and also to weather-induced hiatus. So, three weeks ago I (finally) got the engine pulled and mounted on stand. The head is in good cond since it only has 3500 miles on recond. All I need to do to it is cleaning and lap the valves, with new seals of course. Although the springs are in like-new condition, I may upgrade them to 318 specs as the 177 lbs. of open pressure is better than 145. I have a nice, vintage, Repco valve spring tester that goes up to 350 lbs. Much inside the engine is also very good with just measuring and cleaning to do. Once I got the pan off and then the rods/pistons pulled, my suspicion of broken rings was confirmed - but, it was more intense than I thought. Numbers 1,2, and 5 had the TOP ring broken and the 'faulty' number 6 had BOTH compression rings broken, and not just for a few hundred miles - based on wear patterns and blow-by accumulations. Only pistons 3 and 4 had unbroken rings It is surprising how the cranking compression was at 120 (in five cylinders) , especially when three of them were sealing on one ring, plus, the end-gaps were substantially large. I did my usually measuring, as I always do upon disassembling, and most of the clearances were still within spec. Only the (end) gaps were excessive, But, the leakdown tests I did in October were not as good as I would have liked to have them. So, having got to this point, I then proceed to accurately measure the rings. Considering a new ring is parallel (top to bottom at narrowest point) and mikes out at approx. .076", the broken ones ranged between a best of .072" at widest part (nearest cylinder contact surface) to as narrow as .062" on the inside of the ring-land portion. It was quite evident that the 43 years of pounding up and down took its toll and once the rings wear on the cylinder contact portion, combined with the internal pounding, It does not take a genius to see that the excessive clearance created between ring surface to piston groove (land) surface would be enough to cause irregular movement, especially flutter and vibration, enough so as to eventually break apart the fragile cast iron rings. I also tested the unbroken rings, predominantly those in cylinders 3 and 4, and these all measured out between .070" and .074". So, having gone this far, I have cleaning to do but I also need replacement rings prior to honing the cylinders. I checked locally for parts but it is proving difficult to locate all I will need - or the prices are very high. My wholesale cost for a set of Hastings rings will be $120. On-line, from RPM Engines in Utah, I can get (moly) rings, bearings, (Fel-Pro) gaskets and seals for less than $200. - BUT shipping could be an issue. I will check this out in the following few days and hopefully they can ship by USPS, Those of you who have read my (www.Photoshare.shaw.ca/gallery/hwd1) entry about the 331 Hemi, will be aware of my issues and experiences with ordering parts (from USA into Canada) via UPS. But, at this point in time I will not sweat over a few $ IF the original shipping is as low as the preliminary figure (claimed to be $24.). I will post what transpires in next entry. Stay tuned.
    In the meantime, to all who patiently and faithfully follow my topic, I thank you and wish you all a very good Holiday season and all the best in 2013. :clap:
     
  18. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2003
    Messages:
    2,577
    Likes:
    41
    Okay, here we go, only one month later (which is short for me). I ordered parts from www.rpmmachine.com and they were shipped on Jan.16th. and I got them on the 21st. I will fill you in on the ups and downs of the deal. First, I wish to say that I am thorougly pleased with the company and the owner, a Mr. Daymon Stephens. The only issue I have, like predicted and expected, is with the shipping from point A to point B. I had them use USPS over UPS and did manage to save some $. I will not get into the details of the shipping values but I will make one important suggestion - ESPECIALLY to those members who live in Canada (and possibly other countries) and wish to order parts from the United States. Once the item(s) are packaged to ship out, please request that the sender forward you the package weight and dimensions. You can then either go to Canada Post OR U.S.P.S. to calculate the (almost) final shipping total between both locations. If the suggested value, as provided by shipper, seems either too high or too low then check it for yourself and let your concerns be known. This way there will be no unwelcome surprises (due to extra-billing or inflated costs etc.). Now I will mention exactly what I ordered and what it cost me. I only needed the basic Re-Ring kit because my pistons are in good condition and there is minimal wear (ridging) in cylinders.
    I do not need line-boring, decking, boring, re-sizing rods, pin-fitting or cyl. head machining. I used a new ring to measure end-gaps and they should work out fine once I do the 'glaze-breaking'. The weather is still a month away from permitting me to do this process in my garage and there is much else to do in meantime. Any of you who have done at least one engine rebuild before will (or should) understand that it take time to prep everything (correctly). Cleanliness is of utmost importance. But, I am getting ahead of myself so will go back to cost of my parts. I DID check around prior to ordering and the only other viable competitor (in USA) was Rock Auto. The parts from them would be about $100. more so I settled on RPM in Sandy, Utah. The Perfect Circle (moly) rings, Clevite rod and main shells and complete Sealed Power gasket kit totalled $177.24 then another $24.95 was added for (preliminary?) S&H and then another $103. for the 'postage' to get it to my front door. My own calculations (as described above) would put this last figure at a much lower value - either $60. via Xpressmail OR $40. via Expedited Parcel. I did not question the ($103.) amount and willingly paid it, as I did days earlier for the parts, with PayPal. If I was over-charged for shipping then I have no-one to blame but me. Another 'tip' is that the consumer specifically state (request) the method - if given the choice (as from shipper's website). Not to mention, as I type this, the CDN - $ is valued slightly higher than U.S.- $ so that should save us (in Canada) slightly more. Anyway, comparing apples to apples of course, the same items purchased thru Rock Auto would total $275. so there is no regret to this point in time. I did consider P.A.W. but noticed that they are only dealing thru EBAY and I probably would not find the parts I need. As mentioned already, I am in no big panic since I anticipated doing this (rebuild) project anyway come March or April. I suppose by discovering mechanical failure last October helped advance my plans a bit, this still does not grant me the time (or dedication) to see the project thru. I am tentatively hoping to find a new home for the old Power Wagon soon after April 1st.(no foolin') and hopefully by April 20th. (when insurance expires). If I can get a (reasonable) $2800. for the truck that would help pay for ralley wheels and good tires and enough left over for SMALL 4-door car. (for next winter). But, I am again getting ahead of myself and you know what they say about the 'best-laid plans'. (sigh) That's about it for latest update. I will post anything of interest - good or bad. Now I just need good weather and TIME.
     
  19. bobcat753

    bobcat753 New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2010
    Messages:
    8
    Likes:
    1
    is that a canada only model
     
  20. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2003
    Messages:
    2,577
    Likes:
    41
    As of May 9th, 2013, car is all together and truck is still here - not trying to sell either. I am still awaiting rear bumper and better wheels. My first choice is still the (OEM) small-bolt design because it is the lightest setup and if everything is functioning as it should there is no need to make changes. I have many more photos but apparently, the (Shaw Photoshare) site I am using has a limit to the number (or total size) of the photos I can post. I will have to go thru everything to see if I can delete some redundant photos or use another system to post any volume of photos - regardless of size. I again apologize for the random display of the photos as my first preference would be cronological. I did update the TEXT portion of the (My Link) photoshare so please check that out. I do not want to repeat much of what I posted there. IF any questions or comments, please P.M. or even email me. Thanks as usual for viewing. Finally, to (1959 desoto) I am not sure what you are referring to - this car? According to serial-number, it was manufactured in Hamtramck (Mich.).
     

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