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harsh 1 to 2 upshift?

Discussion in 'EEK! - Every Extended-K Car' started by Dodgem's Dad, Nov 28, 2017.

  1. Dodgem's Dad

    Dodgem's Dad Member

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    Good evening,
    I have managed to workout most of my carb woes, at least enough so that I can drive with some confidence. Now I wonder why it has such a hard time shifting into second. I am used to driving an automatic but always back off a bit on the gas, my invitation to upshift with ease. The automatic attached to the 2.2 in my '84 Reliant isn't interested unless I am reving high, going fast, and then it only clunks into 2nd. If I back off on the gas it will just lose revs and speed.

    I once had a '28 Durant that almost insisted I shift into second before I reached 3 mph. I like getting into gears as soon as possible. Even the tip-toe shift on my DeSoto, known to too many as a clunk-a-matic, doesn't clunk as this does.

    Any ideas? It's been flushed/filled but that made no difference. The car has only 53,000 miles on it.

    Thanks again,
    Justin
     
  2. Doug D

    Doug D Virginia Gentleman

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    There is a linkage adjustment that may need to be performed.

    This was for my '92 Acclaim (3 speed auto) but yours should be similar. It's directly from the Haynes Manual I have (I know it's not the best).

    Throttle Pressure Cable or Rod Adjustment

    The throttle pressure cable (4 cylinder models) controls a valve in the transaxle which governs shift quality and speed. If shifting is harsh or erratic, the throttle pressure cable should be adjusted.

    The adjustment should be made with the engine at normal operating temperature.

    Loosen the cable mounting bracket lock screw and position the bracket so the alignment tabs are in contact with the transaxle casting. Tighten the lock screw to the proper torque.

    Release the cross lock on the cable assembly by pulling up on it. To ensure proper adjustment, the cable must be free to slide all the way toward the engine, against the stop, after the cross-lock is released.

    Move the transaxle throttle control lever clockwise as far as possible (against the internal stop) and press the cross-lock down in the locked position.

    Check the cable action. Move the transaxle throttle cable all the way forward, release it slowly and make sure it returns completely.

    Hope that helps.
     
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  3. Dodgem's Dad

    Dodgem's Dad Member

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    Thank you very much. I'll give it a try.
     
  4. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator
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    Adjustment shouldn't really change unless someone messed with it previously. I would check for a sticking or binding cable or the throttle lever on the trans or carb.
    Being right underneath the battery, the transaxle (kickdown) throttle lever was prone to corrosion and binding. It is a shaft-within-a-shaft with the gear selector lever.
    It should 'flop' easily by hand with light spring pressure towards 'closed throttle'.
     
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  5. Dodgem's Dad

    Dodgem's Dad Member

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    That was remarkable easy and very effective! It was pretty clean down there. The bracket slid freely and the lever freely flopped as it should.
    Following the procedures from the Haynes book, a Chilton's guide, and the 1985 shop manual for my other K-ish Dodge 600 helped too. It ended up moving the bracket more than I had expected. Thank you. I don't know how I ever managed to own a car before the internet.
     

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    Bob Lincoln likes this.
  6. dc8flyer

    dc8flyer Well-Known Member

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    Ensure fluid level is correct. The fluid needs to be at operating temps, select all gear positions prior to fluid level, and then (i believe this is correct) Put the gear lever in PARK and then check level.

    I know too much fluid will definitely cause shifting issues.
     
  7. pt006

    pt006 Active Member

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    I had a similar shifting problem with a 2.5 / Auto. Turned out to be a sticky throttle lever on the trans. After a half an hour moving the lever back and forth with lots of penetrating oil, the lever would return to the 'idle position' just by the power of the return spring. Ran great afterwards.
     
  8. Dodgem's Dad

    Dodgem's Dad Member

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    Thanks all for your input. I had the shop change the fluid and it was overfilled. I always check this because it seems to be the norm with many shops. They assume all cars take 5 quarts of oil and probably have a similar rule for tranny fluid. I will go back and make sure the cable is slippery and springy. As an experiment I nudged the cable a bit further in the distance of the earlier change. Not much change in shifting but once warm it hated to idle at a stop in drive. '84 is new for me even if it is 33 years old.
     
  9. Doug D

    Doug D Virginia Gentleman

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    When the fluid is changed there is a band adjustment that sometimes needs to be done.
     
  10. goair99

    goair99 Active Member

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    Does this also apply to the A670? I have a '94 Lebaron sedan 3.0 and I am having the same 1 to 2 jerky shift. It only jerks with light to moderate throttle. 2 to 3 is smooth as silk. I was also going to have the trans mount replaced...
     
  11. goair99

    goair99 Active Member

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    Hope I am not high jacking, but any response to the last post?
     
  12. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator
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    The 3.0L uses a rod instead of a cable, but it is the same idea for throttle input to the valve body. It should flop freely back to the idle position with a lightly-sprung action.
    These linkages were prone to sticking/binding from corrosion. Unless anyone has fiddled with the adjustment, the adjustment may be fine where it is.
    Should be similar to this. Items #8, #9 and #10 were prone to sticking up top and the lever at #15 under the battery could also stick. Spring #6 should be there. Screw #13 is loosened to allow the rod to slide in #12, then retightened to adjust the rod length. The spring #11 pushes things apart slightly to where the proper adjustment should be at rest (throttle closed).
    [​IMG]
     
  13. goair99

    goair99 Active Member

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    Awesome, Thanks ImperialCrown!
     

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