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How Do I Recharge My Ac

Discussion in 'Minivans · Pacifica' started by greg.owen, Jul 27, 2003.

  1. mmahamm

    Level 2 Supporter

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    I feel the need to repeat this, as a lot of discussion has gone on here and No one has said this:

    Wear Goggles!! :eek:
     
  2. NeonHomer

    NeonHomer Active Member

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    My eyeglasses are certified saftey lenses. Keeps the lens from breaking, but not really helpful against splashes and such.... I have a pair of goggles, but I hardly use them.
     
  3. jess3292

    jess3292 Guest

    I have also purchased the kit at Wal-Mart and successfully done this on my 96 Caravan and my 97 voyager....very easy...just follow the directions...also for the A/C to be on high DO NOT enable air recirculation - the highest setting for the A/C is when it is drawing hot air in from the outside...you should also let the A/C run for a few minutes and make sure the compressor is on before doing the charging...sometimes it charges slowly so be patient...you should feel the difference immediately if you do it right....
     
  4. alvin

    alvin Member

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    I would recommend using both high- and low-side gauges because when you're already near the optimal charge, the low-side pressure actually decreases because of decreasing evaporator temperature (I did use an Interdynamics kit in the past on another vehicle). Also the instructions with those kits do not tell to purge air from the hose before charging.
     
  5. vtec11

    vtec11 Member

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    I recharged the AC in my mom's 1998 GC ES a couple of years ago. She said the AC seemed like it wasn't cooling as before. I charged it with some 134a, I would say about 1.5 12oz cans (i'm not sure if I completely used up the 2nd can). Anyway, it seems like it cooled a little better, but then the compressor started making a moaning noise when engaged. And its been coming every since. What would have happened? Also I remember a little bit of oil coming out of the low side port when I was trying to attach the gauge. But that was a very small amount, i figured it woudn't matter?

    thanks..
     
  6. Mcgyver331

    Mcgyver331 Guest

    I have an 88 GV it will not take more than 1/4 can and even though the system is empty that 1/4 fills to the red pressure almost instantly.
    also my compressor will not go on.

    is there a way to trick the compressor to go on just to fill the system?
     
  7. AllanC

    AllanC Well-Known Member

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    It appears that you are using one of those do-it-yourself charge kits found at Walmart or an auto parts store. You really are "flying blind" with a gauge that has blue and red and no numbers. You really need to know what the numeric pressure is on the suction and discharge side of the AC system while charging refringerant. Are you using R12 or R134a refrigerant? A 1988 model was built to use R12. Has the system been converted to R134a refrigerant? 1/4 can of refrigerant is 3 ounces. Adding 3 ounces of refrigeant to an empty system will not cause pressure to rise to the "red" range since that AC system holds around 40 ounces. So either the system is not empty as you think or the gauge is incorrect.
     
  8. Mcgyver331

    Mcgyver331 Guest

    if you press the vavles in on high and low is the system empty?

    Because the low side goes from the firewall to the compressor is it possible that the compressor is blocking the fluid to go through the whole system?

    could the electric valve looking thing next to the low side valve be stuck closed if it even is a valve?

    my gauge reads as follows 0-45 green 45-65 yellow 65-200 red

    interdynamics 134a + oil 12 oz cans
     
  9. vtec11

    vtec11 Member

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    Does anyone know the charging pressures for the high and low sides for a 1998 GC 3.8L Dual Air. I did not find this info in the service manual.
     
  10. Paul_VR6

    Paul_VR6 Guest

    I just wanted to finally follow-up my sister in law's 94 Caravan AC saga. I finally got a chance to work on it this weekend and get it charged up and VERY cool with the tips here, thanks alot guys.

    One thing that was strange was the AC Orings in the car were just a normal black rubber, which might have been what caused them to leak in the first place. Replaced them with a few universal R134A green ones and it was all sealed up.

    I used the Harbor Freight vacuum pump to purge the system, and it was loud, and kept my compressor on the entire time. Pulled about 28" so it seemed to do the job right.

    I preoiled the compressor and tossed some dye in it as well and gave it a precharge with R134 on the high and low sides to get about 20psi in it.

    Started up the car and it kept tripping out on low pressure on the suction side as I was adding the refrigerant. I had to jumper the switch (pressure, temp? not sure) that's right on the firewall to keep it running for it to pull the charge in.

    From dry it took 2 x 12oz cans to get it up to pressure, left it about 50psi suction side, and 250psi high side, that sound about right?

    One thing that was strange was that I could hear a hissing by the firewall, and evenhthough I couldn't see any dye, I'm thinking there might be a leak back there. I didn't see any pressure drop off in the hour I left the gauges on though. Also, the low pressure hose right at the firewall had a good amount of condensate on it, that normal?

    Anyway, that's it for now, thanks again for the help and I hope my experience will help others in the future. B)
     
  11. poorboy_616

    poorboy_616 Mr. Fixit
    Level 2 Supporter

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    Follow the instructions on the CAN OR KIT to the letter!!!!!

    I am Certified through ASE (Automotive Service Excellence as a refrigerant and A/c Technician...as well as P2 (Parts Technician), follow the instructions with the can or kit. I have seen first hand what can happen if you don't.......(it's nasty!!!)

    I work at NAPA Auto Supply, and have many years experience in the automotive industry including auto repair, I have seen whats happens when instructions aren't followed.
     
  12. Mike1967

    Mike1967 Guest

    I have not read through all of the replies, so sorry if this is a repost.

    I recently had to remove and reinstall the AC compressors on both of my cars. So I had to completely recharge both systems. Since I opened up the system it was necessary to create a vacume in the system before adding the new oil and freon. I used a vacume box from Harbor freight....it is pretty cheap.

    You would need an air compressor to use this unit.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=92475
     
  13. J B M

    J B M Guest

    Great information on this board and especially in this thread. I have a couple questions though, hopefully someone can answer them.

    I have a 95 plymouth voyager, with a/c problems. First off, I don't have a label under the hood showing if it's r-12 or r134a, but I'm guessing that because it's a '95, it's probably r-134a. Can anyone tell me for sure though?

    Also, I removed the jack to look for the bubbles, but I don't see anything in there...I was told when I bought the van that it may have a leak because they were having to recharge it every 3 to 6 mos...my question is, if I buy the recharge kit with the oil in it, will I immediately start to see bubbles as it's being filled up?

    And finally, if I buy the super sealer, should I put that in first then put the r-134a in?

    Thanks in advance for any help.

    John
     
  14. NYBo

    Level III Supporter

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    You have R-134a. For those who have older vehicles and aren't sure if they've been converted, the easy way to tell is to look at the Schrader valves. If they are the same diameter as a tire valve and have external threads, you have R-12. The valves for R-134a are significantly larger, and are quick-connect fittings.

    Once you start recharging, you should start seeing bubbles fairly quickly.

    If the leak is bad enough to need recharging every 3-6 months, I doubt any stop-leak product will fix it.
     
  15. kd4ttc

    kd4ttc Guest

    One of the best threads on AC on the Web.

    I have a question. I had a system that didn't cool too well. Manifold pressures when not running were about 60 PSI with ambient temp at about 75 deg F. That would be an all gas phase given the vapor pressures off the Pressure Enthalpy phase diagram I found on the DuPont site. I added 12 oz of HFC-134a (with leak sealer) slowly and now have low side at 40 psi and high side at 200 psi while running with ambient temp of 80 deg. With the AC off the high and low side pressure is 100 PSI at 80 deg ambient, which is the vapor pressure for a gas/fluid mix in the system.

    Should I add more refrigerant until high side is 300 PSI or so, or is the 40 psi / 200 psi correct. I was hesitant to add more, since rule of thumb is low side pressure no more than 45 psi and the AC is now blowing nice, cold air. By the way, when I purged the manifold with a squirt off the high side it was very oily, so I gather I've got adequate lubrication within the system.

    The auto is a 1998 Dodge Caravan with a 3.8L V6. I've been googling a lot and haven't found any charge/pressure tables for ANY auto AC, but I have gotten quite an education in auto and stationary AC practice and theory!

    Steve
     
  16. NYBo

    Level III Supporter

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    Leave it the way it is. Your working pressures are okay.
     
  17. lopezz_11

    lopezz_11 Member

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    Hello

    If you asking....thats probably not a good idea. Team up with some good mechanic for the first time to learn for the future. I don't care what other say...it's not completely safe to do it if you never did it.

    Good luck

    Peace
     
  18. DaytonaBob

    DaytonaBob Member

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    I have 93 Voyager 3.0 w/AC that has to be charged every 2 months and I have had a shop recharge it for me and it cost 40-50.00 per time, so I decided to go to Wally World and purchase a 134a kit for the a/c and came home, read the instructions, started the engine, turned the a/c on to the highest setting, hooked it up and read the gauge after 3 minutes of running the engine and it was in the green, denoting that I need to charge so I hooked it back up after shaking the can many times, attached it to the gauge and hose and hooked it back up to the low side of the a/c. I then backed off on the valve and let the freon go in slowly, and shaking the can periodically up and down. Important to note is that to keep the can in an upright position. Watched the gauge until it reached 45 lbs in the blue area and then stopped the flow. Checked the air blowing out of the vents and it was cold, cold, cold... :D :D :D
     
  19. knudln

    knudln New Member

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    Hi Folks -

    Have a 96 GC that blew marginally cool air last year; this year it's not blowing cool air at all. Read all the posts and decided to go to Parts America and go the do it yourself route. Hooked the can up and started to add freon (guage read 5-10 lbs. to start), and then realized that the compressor wasn't running. Checked the 15A fuse and it's OK. Read the Haynes manual and it states if the compressor isn't running, that you can pull the low-pressure cycling switch plug and attach a jumper wire, which will keep the compressor ON. My question is - is that what I should do? And where is this low-pressure cycling switch plug? Thanks for any help. Man is it hot out!

    David
     
  20. NYBo

    Level III Supporter

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    There is no traditional low pressure sensor in the Gen 3s like yours. Does the compressor light on the dash come on?

    Turn everything on, and start the recharge. It will go slowly at first, but eventually enough will go in to start the compressor.
     

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