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I have an addiction...

Discussion in 'A Body: Duster, Valiant, Dart, etc' started by saltydog, Sep 23, 2018.

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  1. Scrounge

    Scrounge Got parts?

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    You have options:

    What is the Best Ethanol Fuel Treatment? (at http://www.fuelsystemguide.com/what-is-the-best-ethanol-fuel-treatment/ )

    Ethanol is an octane booster, so if you choose an additive that doesn't include an octane booster, you might consider a separate one. However, that might not an issue with the Slant 6. When your car was new, regular was 93 octane, but the formula for determining octane has since changed, and the current 87 octane is the equivalent of the 93 octane during the 1960's. Most stations had only regular and premium gasoline, but Sunoco stations had "Custom Blending", with up to 8 separate octane ratings. The Slant 6 engines might have performed adequately with their economy blend, which was lower than 93. Anyway, lead was an octane booster that was eventually phased out of gasoline. You can buy a cheap container of octane booster at Dollar Tree. Xylene is also an octane booster; you can buy a larger container of it at hardware stores, which should last several fill-ups.

    Another option is to find a gas station that sells ethanol-free gas, which is usually about 30 to 50 cents per gallon higher than E10. These stations are more common in some parts of the country than others; Oklahoma has a lot of them, but Texas has far fewer.

    Speaking of lead, it was also a valve lubricant. During the 1970s, manufactures switched to hard seats so that no-lead gas could be used in them. If the head in your engine was converted to hard seats, you should be ok, but if not, you might also consider a lead substitute. You should still be ok if you drive the car at mostly city speeds without hard acceleration.
     
  2. 68RT

    68RT Well-Known Member

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    Had a 63 4-door w/225 & 3 on the tree. So much fun to drive with tons of bottom end for climbing Tacoma hills.
     
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  3. saltydog

    saltydog Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info!

    I went through the rebuild receipt and hardened valve seats where used, so I should be good and need a lead substitute.
     
  4. saltydog

    saltydog Well-Known Member

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    So I need to find this rubber boot that is on the steering shaft, not sure what it’s called. The boot is tore and lets hot engine air through the steering column.
    [​IMG]
     
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  5. saltydog

    saltydog Well-Known Member

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    I also found this, 4 way flashers. Never seen this before in a early 60’s car.

    [​IMG]
     
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  6. Scrounge

    Scrounge Got parts?

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    I think the flasher was an after-market item back then. As for the hot air, you might want to stuff a towel or something into the hole until you find the boot, which may take a while.

    So, how's it running so far?
     
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  7. valiant67

    valiant67 ...

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  8. saltydog

    saltydog Well-Known Member

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    For the most part, just great! I have a small oil leak to fix(at some point) and I need to figure out why its losing spark occasionally. It will just happen at random for a few minutes and then it back, so diagnosing this will take some time. I think it has something to do with the electronic ignition setup.
     
  9. Scrounge

    Scrounge Got parts?

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    It may be the electronic ignition, but I'd first suspect a frayed wire, which could get worse over time. This happened in my D100 years ago. The fray was exposed after I removed some electrical tape protecting the wires to the electronic ignition connector. A butt splice fixed it. You might inspect every wire in the ignition system, which may take some time. Also, make sure the electric grounds are secure.

    The minor oil leak might just be a loose bolt, perhaps on the valve cover, though your oil pan gasket could possibly need replacing.

    Good to read you have a great-running Valiant.
     
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  10. saltydog

    saltydog Well-Known Member

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    I think you maybe on to something, as the other day it cut out for a second or two. So I am suspecting a loose wire. Going to continue to monitor.

    Otherwise, the car has been great! Got rear seat belts installed and took the car to the local cruise night. The car sure gets a lot of attention, more than i would have ever thought. :)
     
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  11. Scrounge

    Scrounge Got parts?

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    Something similar happened to my Dakota -- it would cut out for a split second, acting like a backfire, but not so extreme. My term for it is hiccup. Replacing the cam sensor inside of the distributor eliminated the problem. However, I question whether your distributor has one -- my guess is that it's an older one from the first electronic ignitions. If nothing else, it's one more place to check.
     
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  12. Citation84

    Citation84 Well-Known Member

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    I've used one from Lucas but there are several from other brands.

    Personally There's been no problem in the 10 years since my carburetor was overhauled.

    I've used everything from leaded to Arco's EC1 and everything that's been mandated for decades. 87 octane has been just fine.
     
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  13. saltydog

    saltydog Well-Known Member

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    So the car died on me a few times since my last post. I have checked all the connections, looked through all the wires, everything looks good. I also bypassed the cut off switch, just to be sure.

    When does die, it will happen at idle. Then it will not restart, however just about when I am going to call the tow truck, it will restart and all if fine. So the last few times that it has done this, I just let it sit for about 5 minutes and then she restarts without issue. This is such an odd issue.

    I really just want it to fail and stay that way, that way we can get it fixed before the April car show.


    On another note, the boys and I took the car to a local Toy Drive and Car Show, it rained but still had 90 cars show despite the bad weather. Lot of fun and the car gets lots of look and questions. :)
     
  14. valiant67

    valiant67 ...

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    I had similar issues with the pickup coil in the distributor not allowing hot restarts once it heat soaked. Never had a stall though. I don’t remember what ignition setup yours has.
     
  15. valiant67

    valiant67 ...

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    I had similar issues with the pickup coil in the distributor not allowing hot restarts once it heat soaked. Never had a stall though. I don’t remember what ignition setup yours has.
     
  16. saltydog

    saltydog Well-Known Member

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    The PO upgraded to electronic ignition.
     
  17. valiant67

    valiant67 ...

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    I’d check the pickup coil then. I’m sorry I don’t recall the diagnostic details.
     
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  18. Scrounge

    Scrounge Got parts?

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    Restarting after sitting about 5 minutes could be a bad neutral safety switch, which is a relatively cheap part and easy replacement. I don't know whether that would cause your stalling, though. Does it also stall if you shift to neutral when idling?

    Have you removed the distributor cap and examined inside? Maybe it's time to change the rotor and cap.
     
  19. valiant67

    valiant67 ...

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    Neutral safety switch isn’t as likely to be heat soak sensitive as the pickup coil. But it is an easy test to jump the post on the starter relay (the one hooked to the neutral safety switch) to ground as a test the next time it won’t start.

    I assumed you were losing spark, but I’ve also ran across odd symptoms where fuel is lost, causing a stall or no start. Next time it stalls, see if you are getting spark.
     
  20. saltydog

    saltydog Well-Known Member

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    Will do.

    I actually drove the car today and she died in the middle of traffic...ugh, but start right back up.
     

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