Discussion in 'A Body: Duster, Valiant, Dart, etc' started by saltydog, Sep 23, 2018.
You might want to check the lower control arm bushings for that clunk.
found some bad connections from the Electronic ignition to the ballast resistor, just touching them and they fell off.... just found a wire diagram, so we will get that fixed.
Next, the distributor shaft was very loose, looks like the bushing is worn out and the rotor is hitting the cap...so got a new distributor on order.
Next, the voltage regulator was bad, so it was stuck at full charge, so I ordered a Solid State Regulator, we will see how that works. Hoping the overcharging did not ruin anything.
Overcharging might affect the battery. You might check its sides for bulging, and test its voltage.
Good to read that the problems you found are easily fixed.
To add to this, an overcharged battery will also usually "sweat".
Got the ignition system wired correctly, new distributor in and set. The car ran well for about 10 min and we lost ignition. Sometimes it will run just fine and other times it will not even start.
So the only thing left is the ignition module and with the overcharging, that could have fried it. Fingers crossed that will fix the issue
Battery seems to be fine, holding a charge and no signs of swelling or sweating.
If the ignition module is suspect, replacement is in order. This reads like it could be a starter relay problem. Or maybe the coil.
So after digging through the wiring for the ignition, we found several connections that were not solid or not wired correctly. Got that sorted.
New ignition module, new distributor and new voltage regulator have been installed. The car starts every time and runs great!
Next up is the Carberator rebuild and turn signal switch.
Got the turn signal cam installed, what a PITA. However, the car still had the original cam, with factory tags. Kinda cool to see that.
I should have taken some pictures, but I got caught up during the install.
Next up is the Carb rebuild and front motor mounts(they look so sad).
Are your motor mounts the same as those used for big blocks? I had a '65 Monaco with a 383, which was the last year for that motor mount design, which was only used during the '62 to '65 model years. They were somewhat hard to find, and some people wanted too much $ for them. I was able to find an NOS set at a swap meet for $6 each, and I subsequently found a few in junkyards for $5 each, which I think I still have.
But my guess is that yours are different. You might be careful about buying them from local parts stores, some of them might try to sell you a newer set that won't be right for your model. It might be a good idea to find out what the exact Mopar Part # is, and use that. Pics should help, too. Or, if you can manage it, remove one of them and take it in to match.
Good info on the motor mounts. I ordered replacements from RockAuto, one has already come in and it looks to be correct. I dont have the car with me, as its with my Dad. Once the other one comes in, I will verify that they are correct for my car.
So the motor mounts have been a pain to figure out, but it looks(from the parts list anyhow) that my car uses the 170 motor mounts. I figured that both 6 cyl would use the same.
Anyhow, I got the correct ones ordered and on the way. Seems the left/driver side is a difficult part keep stocked, as most places had non available.
Well got we got one motor mount in and turned the other one around and the engine is sitting wayyy better. There was so much sag, the oil pump was hitting frame rail...
So my replacement mounts are not as thick as the prior ones and there is not much room for them to be smaller, as there is so little room between the oil pan and cross member.
So we are going make some custom spacers for the passenger side mount and that should make up the difference.
So thought I would list everything that has been done to the Valiant while on Quarantine.
1. New Distributor
2. New Electronic Ignition Module
3. New Voltage Regulator
4. Valve cover gasket
5. Ignition wiring corrected
6. New motor mounts
7. Oil Pressure sending unit
8. New Fuel line(found when changing motor mount)
9. Turn Signal Cam
1. Carb rebuild
2. Passenger Side ball joints(clicking/clunking)
Don't just do the passenger side ball joints. If you're going to replace those, you might as well do the driver side too. That way they're all new and should wear at the same rate, right?
Most likely I will replace all of them, but in my past experience with these Valiants and Darts, the passenger side always goes out first. So odd.
You mentioned a new fuel line. Might this have solved the problem that made it seem like the carb needs a rebuild? Or does it still run/idle rough, or use too much gas? Maybe the carb will need rebuilding sooner or later anyway, but if the fuel line makes it run better, I'd put it off until later, and either run E0 gas or use a good ethanol treatment. Meanwhile, check everywhere for vacuum leaks. Even a small one can make it run rough.
When rebuilding a smaller carb, the trickiest part is getting the float adjustment just right. Everything else should be pretty straightforward.
The car runs quite good now with the ignition system functioning correctly. The issue I am having with the carb is when the car sits after being driven, it will flood with fuel and then not want to start.
Probably the carb, then. This is often traced to the float valve and seat, maybe from sitting too long, maybe from dirt. Found this:
What Causes Carburetor Flooding (at https://www.carburetor-parts.com/What-Causes-Carburetor-Flooding_b_30.html )
This looks just like one of Dad’s company cars in 64. Same colors with a slant six and four speed.
I seem to recall early A bodies had staggered front wheels. I.E. centerlines were off almost 1”.
Could this possibly explain the odd wear rate?