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I retired and I think My LHS wants to as well

Discussion in 'LH: Large Cars, 1993-2004' started by movinyou, Mar 16, 2018.

  1. movinyou

    movinyou Active Member

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    Hello all, Funny how thing s happen. Retired wed., and now my LHS doesn't want to idle. Or should I say it is very lopey. Changed plugs last weekend to Bosch plus 4's (same ones I had been running) and changed a coil with a broken boot. No codes yet. Fuel pump changed 200,000 miles and 8 years ago. 417,000 on it now. Going to try another coil but, I suspect my fuel pump is ready to die. Any thoughts folks? Thanks
     
  2. valiant67

    valiant67 ...

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    I've had terrible luck with Bosch +4 plugs. If it's lopwy I'd suspect a vacuum leak rather than the plugs though.
     
    Doug D likes this.
  3. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator
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    I have also had running problems with Bosch spark plugs on Chryslers. What year? I would suggest only using the OEM Champion RC12PEC5 or NGK ZFR5LP-13G, the spark plugs that were designed for it.
     
  4. movinyou

    movinyou Active Member

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    it is a 1999. Heck, it just started this morning
     
  5. Doug D

    Doug D Virginia Gentleman

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    Get rid of the Bosch Plus 4's and put in the recommended OEM's.
     
  6. movinyou

    movinyou Active Member

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    Tried to start it and it was a bear. Once it was running I sprayed a little carb cleaner on the the vacuum ports as well as the plenum gasket and there was no change until I blipped the throttle and it cleared up and idled like a champ. Shut it down, gave it a few minutes and it started right up. Go figure? Am I maybe missing something besides those plugs?
     
  7. Scrounge

    Scrounge Got parts?
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    While I agree that Champions are the best plugs in Mopars, it reads like something else is causing your problem. In addition to checking your vacuum lines, you might check for frayed or exposed wires, especially those leading to various sensors that affect idle. Certain sensors will trip a code when going bad, but the wires usually don't.

    The problem could be around the throttle. Maybe something was sticking, and when you sprayed, that freed it.
     
  8. movinyou

    movinyou Active Member

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    going to take it out again for the first time since it began acting normal again. Didn't start until after I hit the interstate. Going to give it a try and see what happens. Might chase down a set of Champs and see what happens. Thing is, I have run Bosch +4's in this one for 300,000 miles and my 90 5th ave for 100000 + without a problem. Will report back after the run
     
  9. movinyou

    movinyou Active Member

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    Drive completed, no problem. Just curious though, What problems have people had with Bosch plugs over champs? Also, i did change out the coil I replaced with one of the oem coil. Maybe Borg Warner coils ain't such a hot ticket?
     
  10. Doug D

    Doug D Virginia Gentleman

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    From what I've read, some have experienced driveability issues (missing, etc) when using the Bosch +4's. When they went back to OEM, the issues went away.

    I've almost always used OEM spark plugs (Champion's or NKG's) in my MoPars. A few times I used AutoLites - no issues.

    Champions just seem to get better performance and longevity for me. Case in point - My '06 Ram 1500 (Hemi) uses Champion copper plugs. Recommended change interval is every 30K miles, however, I've gone over 100K with Champions and no issues. The plugs were worn (wide gap), but I never had any starting issues or running issues with the plugs. Installing new plugs only resulted in a 0.5 mpg increase on average. If you've ever had to change the plugs on a Hemi (especially in a truck), it is a time consuming job - takes me about 3-3.5 hours and there are 16 plugs to change out. Not fun. Or you pay $250-$300 for a shop or dealer to do it. Some Hemi owners have used platinum or double platinum plugs, but most end up having driveability issues and end up swapping back to coppers plugs. There is something about the spark that copper plugs are better for the Hemi.

    The Bosch +4's don't really offer much of an advantage - the spark will follow the path of least resistance so only one electrode will get the spark.
     
  11. wolfsblood07

    wolfsblood07 Active Member

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    I'd say that LHS gave all it had! 400,000 miles plus, that's not too shabby. I hope a lot of people read this post and realize that Chrysler is the way to go
     
    Donte Lindsey likes this.
  12. movinyou

    movinyou Active Member

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    Well, as you say, 400,000 ain't to shabby. As long as it is running ok, I'm trying for a half million. Body and interior aren't to bad. Especially for a car in the middle of Kansas. Smokes a little when it's cold. Once it's warm, not a hint. So, I'll think I'll keep her (more than I could say about a couple my wives that were naughty while I was deployed).
     
    wolfsblood07 likes this.
  13. Scrounge

    Scrounge Got parts?
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    If it was made in China, then yes, their electronic parts are often problematic.
     
  14. movinyou

    movinyou Active Member

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    Been a couple of weeks now and not so much as a hick up. Must have been an ecm brain fart. Now, on to the next issue.
     
  15. movinyou

    movinyou Active Member

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    Well folks, it's back again. I put in the champs and it was OK for a while and now it is up to the same ol' stuff. Plugged all the vacuum ports that I know of with no change. Could I be missing something
     
  16. movinyou

    movinyou Active Member

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    Just wondering, is there a possibility that it is actually flooding out? After I backed my car in the garage, I could smell raw gas from the tailpipe and after it has been sitting a few minutes, when I try to restart, i have to floor it to get it to kick. Weird or what? IAC maybe?
     
  17. Tomguy

    Tomguy Well-Known Member

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    Crank position sensor did that on mine when it was on its way out. When it died, it was the only time I ever needed a tow. Never threw a CEL or code either.
     
  18. movinyou

    movinyou Active Member

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    Thanks I'll check that. Also, I did a check as suggested by this A/Z shop manual I have about unplugging the IAC motor while it was running - which had no effect at all. Motor dead or ECM tired? Can anybody take a guess?
     
  19. Tomguy

    Tomguy Well-Known Member

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    If your IAC is bad it will throw a code (at least mine does, right away, when it's unplugged or when the $350 300M I picked up had its bad one - which I verified by swapping onto my other one and having the code go away on the one and pop up right away on the other)

    Don't use some third party FSM. The full Chrysler one is available.
     
  20. movinyou

    movinyou Active Member

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    When I unplugged the IAC, it didn't throw a code. Seemed odd to me. But now, it's back running right again. have a theory. I have a tendency to fill it as much as it can take. Is it possible that raw fuel got into the vapor return system, causing it to run rich? I noticed yesterday as I got closer to a 1/4 tank (not habit), the better it started running until it was idling on it's own again. Also, I try to run non-E-10 fuel. Am I hanging myself? And, FYI, Autozone takes your bad ECM, ships it of off and they replace only what's bad, eliminating the need to have the ECM reflashed. Had an #1 injector driver go bad, they sent it off and when it came back it was basically plug and play. Plus it had a 1 year warrantee. That, was 3 years ago.
     

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