There are several points I need to cover so I'll try and be brief. Instrument cluster with tach. The following things seemed to coincide with the alternator troubles I mentioned in a previous thread but I can't swear if they're related in other than a "convenient" sort of way. (a) Normally car runs fine and cluster works fine. (b) Sometimes the cluster will go completely dead when you turn the lights on. No temp gauge, oil gauge, alt gauge, tach or speedo. However, the turn indicators and high beam light will stay on. (c) Turning the lights off will bring the cluster back to life with the speedo, tach and temp gauges working fine. Oil gauge will now read close to max and the alt gauge will now move in rhythm with the turn signal, go down when you hit the brakes and so on. However, a quick check indicates the alternator is indeed working as it should, regardless of what the gauge says. (d) Turning the car off and back on may, or may not, solve the problem. If it does solve the problem, now the alternator itself is indeed not working correctly and you have to give it a tap. By doing so you can hear it come back to life and everything is now fine. (e) Thought it was dampness related as one time it gave me no end of trouble during a damp chilly day. No, the next kind of day and it ran fine for 150 miles without issues. Stop, start, stop and start, no problems. (f) Thought it was related to the engine being hot. That idea was shot down as I did my best to try and recreate the same problem after a 35 mile trip home. Nada, zip, perfect. Battery is newer, alt is an aftermarket Bosch style replacement which I'll swap out this weekend. Both are well within range when tested with a meter, when the alternator works. A short wiring repair 10 years ago shows no signs of being damaged, a wire that indeed ran the cluster, and most everything else inside. What puzzles me is the relationship with the problem going away but killing the alternator when it does. Deepest thanks for taking the time to read and for any ideas.