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Low Buck Slant Six Race Car

Discussion in 'A Body: Duster, Valiant, Dart, etc' started by Charrlie_S, Jan 11, 2006.

  1. Charrlie_S

    Charrlie_S Member

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    I am building a "Low Buck" slant six powered race car. The idea is to see how quick it can go, for the least amount of money, and be something that anyone could basicly copy. Not to be copied exactly, copy the idea, and adjust according to the bargains they find. I started this December 2004


    66 Valiant 225 engine, automatic $100.00 Salvage yard
    set of V-8 headers in the trunk sold - $50.00
    Rings 9.95 E-bay
    Main bearings 25.00 E-bay
    Rod bearings set 4.25 E-bay
    Cam bearings set 5.50 Ebay
    Timing set Blue Racer 9.95 E-bay
    Gasket Set 24.95
    New Crane cam 460 lift 290* dur no cost, traded for a used head, from an engine that was free
    Lifters 18.00 E-bay
    Oil pump 9.95 E-bay
    Headers clifford shorty with pipes 100.00 Parts for sale on a mopar site
    Offie intake 65.00 e-Bay
    Edelbrock 500 50.00 Private purchase
    Nitrous system 100.00 Swap meet
    New recon head 99.95 E-bay
    Total so far $572.50

    Mopar performance dual springs and retainers $134.64 Koller dodge
    Spring seat cutter $64.68 Comp Cams
    Push rods $12.00 Discontinued stock from a Massey Fergusson tractor dealer on e-bay
    PST front end kit $100 Parts for sale section of slantsix.com
    NEW TOTAL $883.32


    The engine parts were all cleaned with "purple power". All the special tools to build the engine, such as ridge reamer, cyl hone, ring groove cleaner, etc. were "borrowed" from auto zone, with a refundable deposit, except for the cam bearing installer. I have one of my own, but for someone else, that is the only thing, that would have to be farmed out.

    Got the cam degreed in. It fell in at 1* advanced at 106 degrees, without haveing to adjust it. Measured my deck hight and cc'ed the head. have to run the numbers, and see what my compression ratio is. Set the head on the block, with checking valve springs, to check valve to piston clearence, and see if I have to cut down the guides, for retainer clearance. Will do that over the weekend. Still need to cut the spring seats for dual springs.

    Compression ratio is 8.2 to 8.5
    The deck hight is .170-.173 and the head cc's range from 53-56, with a gasket thickness of .021

    Well, it looks like the $800 budget is going to take a hit. I completed the cylinder head, but ran into a glitch. This is something novice engine builders most times over look. It has been awhile since I built an engine from scratch, rather then a refresh, and I fell victim, also. A cam needs a matching valve train. My freebe Crane cam, needed dual valve springs. I had planned on using 340 springs and retainers, but they were nowhere near enough tension. I wound up using Mopar performance springs, #P3412068, and retainers #P4529823. Had them in stock, but cost was $134.64.That brings the total to $707.14. Along with this, I had to machine the spring seats for the dual springs. I had the tool on hand, but otherwise this would require the purchase of the tool from Comp cams for $64.68, cutter and arbor, or have a machine shop do the job. I did not cut the valve guides, as there was no interferance, with the retainers at max lift, and I used stock seals, cut down with a sissors, to fit inside the spring. The cutter to cut the guides is $45.99.
    The engine is now assembled, on the stand with the intake and headers on for a trial fit.



    I have started cleaning surface rust fom the inside of the car, prior to painting.
    That is where it is at today 1-11-06 Hope to have it running in time for the memorial day race at South Georgia Motorsports Park
     
    pismopowerwagon likes this.
  2. 273dave

    273dave Member

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    Sounds like a cool project. Good luck with it. Have you ever had problems using nitrous? How big of charge to you use?
     
  3. Charrlie_S

    Charrlie_S Member

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    I have been running a 150 shot on my 170 motor, without problems, untill I got greedy/stipid. I had turned a 13.16, with some wheelspin, and wanted a 12.99, but didn't have time to change jets. Dropped my tire pressure, and Raised my nitrous pressure from 1,000 psi to 1,150 psi with my bottle heater, but didn't raise my fuel pressure. I thought I was rich enough to get away with it. NOT, hurt two pistons. That motor has had about 400 lbs of nitrous thru it in two years of racing.
     
  4. barracuda

    barracuda Member

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    Very impressive Charrlie.
    And useing the 170.
    Cool.
     
  5. Brokemopar

    Brokemopar Guest

    OKIE dokie, i realized it is a little over my budget and skill level to make my 318 dart fast. so im gonna do do some other stuff to it. but i was thinking about putting nitrous into it, ya know for fun ;) but i was wondering if that would kill my motor even if i only ran like a 75 shot max...
     
  6. Charrlie_S

    Charrlie_S Member

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    If the motor is in good mechanical condition, and the installation is done correctly, you will not have a problem. Just make sure you have enough fuel pressure and volumm when the nitrous is activated. If you go lean, you will eat parts. My first nitrous experiance was a 74 dart 318 4 drsdn with over 100,000 on it. Motor was stock, except for a Edelbrock LD4B manifold and a holley 4 bbl from a 440 engine. single ext 2.93 rear, 100hp plate system. Put a "cutout on the exhaust, and a set of 22 inch tall slicks. I don't remember exactley what it turned (25 years ago, and wifes grocery getter), but it was high 15's on motor, and low 14's on the bottle, right off the starting line. About 2 sec quicker.
    Just remember the old sayings, "pay me now or pay me later", and "there is no free lunch". Nitrous is not expensive to install, but you have the keep paying to fill the bottle. Normal hop up items and turbo/super chargers, you pay the money up front, then that is the end of it, unless you break something. Most people don't think of that.
     
  7. Brokemopar

    Brokemopar Guest

    yeah im not going to be on the bottle all the time. im just gonna use it for "special ocassions" so you guys are saying im not risking much by throwing a system in? and when i do what are the precautions i need to take? the advice would be greatly appreciated
     
  8. Charrlie_S

    Charrlie_S Member

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    Like I said before, Make sure your fuel system is in good condition. If you go lean, you will eat parts. You don't need any special fuel system parts, with a small system.
    Will not be able to answer any more questions for about 5 days. Going to the Slant Six Racers Awards Banquet, in Pigeon Forge, TN.
     
  9. Charrlie_S

    Charrlie_S Member

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    Got a little work done on the car this week. Removed the heaterbox, wired brushed the floors and coated them with "Ospho". As soon as the temp warms up a little, I will paint the floor pans.
     
  10. cavemanmoron

    cavemanmoron Active Member

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    "Ospho". ????
     
  11. Charrlie_S

    Charrlie_S Member

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    Ospho, is a rust converter. I understand it is similar to POR15. It can be purchased in almost any hardware store. Less expensive then POR 15. I have never used POR 15, or Ospho, before, so I can't comment on results.
     
  12. Charrlie_S

    Charrlie_S Member

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    Got the floor painted, yesterday. Removed the manifolds from the engine, that is in the car, also trans cooler lines, and exhaust system. Want to check for header fit, before I install the "new" motor. I figure, if I get off my butt, and do a few things, every couple of days, I should get it to the track in April, for shake down runs.
     
  13. Charrlie_S

    Charrlie_S Member

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    Old motor is out. Pressure washed the engine compartment, "K" member and front suspension (what a mess). Painted engine compartment with a couple of rattle cans. Next on the list is to install a PST front suspension kit.
     
  14. Charrlie_S

    Charrlie_S Member

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    Removed driveshaft, and transmission. Removed right front suspension, and upper ball joint from "A" arm. Left front suspension is fighting me. Torsion bar is stuck, and upper "A" arm bushing cam bolts are frozen.
     
  15. PUNKslip

    PUNKslip Member

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    When I think of a slant six, I think of only one word...............TURBO. I know a guy that made Turbo setups for these motors, and they were fast. And he didn't use anything fancy of expensive. He has a website for another project he is working on, it is..... http://www.webspawner.com/users/earlyhemibill/index.html.

    If you want have some real fun with a slant six, he can show you how to do it.

    John


    Um, Charlie, I didn't notice you already have a slant six turbo car. Soooo, how 'bout dem Bears.

    John

    Anyway, that's my brothers web site, he loves slant sixes.
     
  16. Charrlie_S

    Charrlie_S Member

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    John, The whole idea of this project is to show, it is not necessay to spend a "ton" of money to build a drag car, and have fun. Even my turbo car, is a "low budget" car, but it was built over a period of time (1979 to 1985), and I didn't document the cost. Old pic of the "turbo" setup. http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/schmid.html

    I did get the left side suspension apart, had to order some additional parts. Recieved my upper control arm cam bolts and lower control arm "pins", yesterday. Had to cut two of the adjuster bols out, and the lower "pins" were trashed. Also decieded to replace the inner tie rod ends (these do not come with the PST front end kit). Additional cost: $22.96 for two tie rod ends, and $70 for the Cam bolts and lower control arm "pins", from Just Suspension.
     
  17. Charrlie_S

    Charrlie_S Member

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    Right front suspension is done. Everything cleaned, new bushings, ball joints, and painted with Valspar antirust gloss black. Everything reinstalled. Left front next.
     
  18. Charrlie_S

    Charrlie_S Member

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    Both sides of the front end are completed, except for final tightening, after the car is on its wheels. Got the outside of the trans cleaned, and the pan removed. Will be changing the front internals of the trans to use a large spline converter. Next is the front brakes.
     
  19. Charrlie_S

    Charrlie_S Member

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    Front brakes are complete. Replaced everything, except for the drums (9 inch). Trans is apart on the bench. The rear firewall, covering the area once occupied by the rear seat, and package tray, has been completed, in aluminum, thanks to Erik (MPG Fanatic).
     
  20. barracuda

    barracuda Member

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    I have to ask a question concerning your trans. (Rebuilding my'67 904 trans in next couple weeks)
    Why are you changeing the front of the tranny to a larger spline shaft?
    Is it because of the lack of available aftermarket torque converters with fine spline?
    Or a week point of the older trannys?
    Thanks Barracuda.
     

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