AF: Need some help with starting problem, dodge 78 Maxi van | Allpar Forums
  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Need some help with starting problem, dodge 78 Maxi van

Discussion in 'Vans' started by Tommyaleks, Jul 23, 2014.

  1. Tommyaleks

    Tommyaleks New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2014
    Messages:
    7
    Likes:
    0
    Hi, I have a dodge van B-300 Maxi van 1978 model 5210 fuel engine.

    My problem started after my friend fixed some issues with the egnition. He hooked up a start button instead of the key, that was broke. and some other issues. but now my car acting strange when starting it. when I push the button nothing happens, but when I let the button go it starts. and sometimes it takes a loong time before it starts. I have asked him what he did but he can`t remember so now I have a issue I can`t solve. can anyone please help me.



    Thank you.
     
  2. valiant67

    valiant67 ...

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2003
    Messages:
    36,171
    Likes:
    18,532
    I would get the factory wiring diagrams (look for a factory service manual on eBay) and undo whatever modifications your friend made. Correct parts to fix the issue should not be hard to find.
     
    floridaman2013 likes this.
  3. Tommyaleks

    Tommyaleks New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2014
    Messages:
    7
    Likes:
    0
    Thank you for your answer, That`s why we have forums, to get help! so thank you for your kindness.
     
  4. valiant67

    valiant67 ...

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2003
    Messages:
    36,171
    Likes:
    18,532
    Someone who is more familiar may know, maybe your friend mixed up the Start and Run ignition feeds. Electronics is not my strong point

    And welcome to Allpar!
     
  5. floridaman2013

    floridaman2013 Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Messages:
    1,113
    Likes:
    323
    Almost sounds like a ballast resistor gone bad. But, as Valiant67 stated, I would undue all of the pushbutton stuff first and try and put it back to factory specs before diagosing and replacing parts.
     
  6. Tommyaleks

    Tommyaleks New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2014
    Messages:
    7
    Likes:
    0
    Thank you valiant76, it`s nice to be here :)

    Yeah you might right there, Yeah I know what you mean, me too
     
  7. Tommyaleks

    Tommyaleks New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2014
    Messages:
    7
    Likes:
    0
    Do you know where to find this resistor? Yeah but that is the problem, he can`t undo it, he`s on holiday and he`s not remember. I trusted him but..., here I am with a broken car. The car should start when you push the button in and not on the way out. strange. He also removed a immobilizer ( if that is the right name for it) becaouse it was broken. So he got rid of that and reconected som wires and connected a start button.
     
  8. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
    Level 2 Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2002
    Messages:
    31,731
    Likes:
    4,974
    So, let me see if I understand correctly:

    Originally when your friend connected the new starter button, it did work by cranking when you press the button and then started and stopped cranking when you released the button?

    But now, there is no action at all when pressing the button, but when you release it cranks and starts? If so, does the cranking continue with the engine running?

    Did anything noticeable happen at the time the button's performance changed?

    Ballast resistor is a white ceramic block bolted to the firewall, about the size of one's finger, with either two or four quick-connect terminals wired to it. I believe your vintage will have 4 terminals. Measure the resistance across terminals (horizontally, from one end to the other). I think one is about an ohm, the other is somewhere between 5 and 10 ohms or so.
     
    floridaman2013 likes this.
  9. Tommyaleks

    Tommyaleks New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2014
    Messages:
    7
    Likes:
    0
     
  10. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
    Level 2 Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2002
    Messages:
    31,731
    Likes:
    4,974
    OK, this is almost guaranteed to be the ballast resistor. It's a cheap part, but many new replacements are also faulty. So I'd recommend buying it at a reputable place like NAPA. But post the resistance measurements first. Others will have more accurate numbers than I posted, but I believe they are ballpark. Just be sure to measure the long way. One of them probably will measure as open.

    As far as the crackling sound, there is likely still an issue with the ignition switch that hasn't been resolved. Unless, of course, you didn't realize that the Accessory position is one click back behind the Lock position (where you remove the key). Or, you're turning from Off to Lock and you hear the steering wheel lock engaging.
     
    floridaman2013 likes this.
  11. Tommyaleks

    Tommyaleks New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2014
    Messages:
    7
    Likes:
    0
     
  12. Tommyaleks

    Tommyaleks New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2014
    Messages:
    7
    Likes:
    0
    I did measure the block now. one end was 1 Ohm and the other end was 7 Ohm. with the egnition off.

    can the contacts have bean placed on the wrong pins ?
     
  13. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
    Level 2 Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2002
    Messages:
    31,731
    Likes:
    4,974
    No, as I recall, these have a dual plug at each end, no way to connect it wrong. But the higher resistance value should be across the top resistor, with the notch in the ceramic body pointed toward the passenger side.
     

Share This Page

Loading...
 We are not affiliated with FCA. We make no claims regarding validity or accuracy of information or advice. Copyright © VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.