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Discussion in 'A Body: Duster, Valiant, Dart, etc' started by Nebraskaorville, Aug 10, 2017.
Smart. So, the holes should dimple outward - away from the transmission, right?
Yes. This lets the bolt pull the pan and gasket between the bolts against the transmission rail instead of smashing the gasket right at the bolts and allow the gasket to leak between the bolts.
Found a 89 Ram 4wd service truck with no title. 360, throttle body FI, running. Wants $750 for the whole truck.
I'm gonna go back over and re-read the engine write up, but have these questions for now:
Are the FI heads different? Can i just plop a 2bbl Rochester (or whatever will fit the manifold) down on it and be good to go?
If the heads are different (anyone know deck height in a 360?) and i put my 318 heads on that block, will i increase CR to the point where ill need to boost octane?
Thanks guys. I'm leaning toward this 360. Pep!
I don't think the heads are different; if you're going to carb, someone else might tell you if you also need to change the manifold. For pep, you might consider a 4-bbl; I don't know if this would also involve changing the accelerator cable, and if so, I don't know what would fit. A 2-bbl will return better mileage. Either way, go back over what Dana said about the swap. You'll need to make some adjustments, but they shouldn't be too difficult.
Yeah, tc, pan, a motor mount, etc. it's probably a non- issue anyway- right after I found the truck I met a guy right down the road from me that had his 72 valiant painted and will be swapping out the stock 318 for a crate motor when it comes back from the body shop, so I think I found my engine, mentor and shop today. Great dude- been running Chrysler since the 70s and knows his stuff. I'm thinking I'll be on the road by spring!
The Magnum engine does have a different intake manifold bolt pattern, the bolts go straight up and down instead of the angle of the intake ports of the head. They do make carb manifolds for the Magnums so not difficult to change as far as that goes. Going with the 318 LA crate motor sounds like a good deal, too.
The 89 motor is a TBI motor, not a Magnum motor.
And putting 318 heads on a 360 will increase compression but choke it with smaller ports. No gains, probably losses.
OOOPs, my bad, not sure what I was thinking. Never mind.
And 318 heads on a 360, yes, it will improve compression and bottom end, but not really a good idea. Now, if you dropped at least 1.88 intake valves (stock 360 intakes) and port the heads to improve that flow, then you could get the heads to function slightly better than stock 360 heads with lower compression, but that is a lot of work and cost for such small gains unless you are doing it as an experiment.
There are three components in this picture I can't identify. One is the black thing with the screw in the top, one is the electronic component mounted to what seems like a heat sink (gold) and the third is a borg warner box mounted to the firewall. As of today I have no spark- I'm thinking one of these components is the culprit and I'm looking for troubleshooting and test procedures. Thanks in advance guys!
First, make sure the wires are properly connected, and the distributor cap, points, condenser and rotor are good (I'm assuming the '72 motor doesn't have electronic ignition). If they are, you might check the coil. I had a problem some time ago with a coil often going out because the battery wasn't properly grounded to the body.
The Borg Warner box looks like the voltage regulator.
This one has been converted to electronic- there's a black box where the points would have been. Plug wires and cap/rotor are new. Thanks for the hit on the borg Warner box. Any ideas on other components? Also- it ran last week.
That it the control module for the electronic ignition.
Here is the Mopar version of it, but there are many other options. It can cause a no spark issue, but there could still ne another issue instead of it.
Thanks! What i was really asking about is the little black thing with the screw in the top of it- the actual component I have circled in the pic.
That is not a component, it's just the wire plug that screws onto the ignition box, nothing but a wiring connector. it screws to the while part of the ignition box I showed.
Some parts stores can test the ignition module; it's a fairly simple replacement, but if you need one, don't buy one that's made in China. If you can't find a US-made module, I've had good results from those made in Mexico. Check the wire that connects to the module for current. Also, check the power lead between the distributor and the coil. I noticed some tape and other repairs on the wire to the ballast resistor; you might check that, too.
Agree, electronic control module for electronic ignition, the screw holds he wire connector in place. Check to make sure you have power on both sides of the ballast resistor (the white thing with the messy wiring job), it reduces the power going through it to the electronic ignition module. Probe, with the key on, power from one side to the other.
Clean the distributor 'star wheel' and the pickup coil surface with a fine file. Using a brass .008 - .010 thick feeler gauge set the gap at the pickup coil.
Remove the ECU and clean its base and the fender to assure a good ground. A dab of grease will slow corrosion.
Replace your 2 prong white block resistor with a 4 prong block resistor. Rewire per factory wiring diagram [after 1973 ?].
Thanks all! I did pull the plug today and found some corrosion, so I cleaned all that up with some 600grit, cleaned mounting/ground points for ignition module (added bulb grease there and in plug) and buttoned it all back up- no spark- I did get a spark between coil and dist, but not from plug wire, so next till clean the star wheel and pickup coil, then start doing continuity tests. Could be bad pickup coil in distributor. Anyone know what impedance it should show? Thanks again guys! Oh- Haynes manual is on the way so I won't have as many noob questions soon...