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Newbie - 1972 Valiant

Discussion in 'A Body: Duster, Valiant, Dart, etc' started by Nebraskaorville, Aug 10, 2017.

  1. pt006

    pt006 Active Member

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    I don't know where I got this from, but I wrote down between 150 and 900 ohms in an old manual. This was written decades ago.
     
  2. Nebraskaorville

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    IMG_3850.JPG Thanks man- I'll check it. I have current across the ballast resistor and I cleaned the star wheel and pickup coil- still no spark. Coil wire is good. I have a weak test light at the center post of three in a row on the ECU plug- no light between any of the others.
     
  3. Scrounge

    Scrounge Well-Known Member

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    You might want to clean those connector prongs.

    I had a similar problem on a D100, and when I started removing the tape over the wires that connect to the ignition module, one of the wires was slightly frayed. I repaired it with a good butt splice, which solved the problem. I don't know if that's a common problem on your vehicle, but it's another place to check.
     
  4. pt006

    pt006 Active Member

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    Cleaning those pins can be tough. I use a little screwdriver with a freshly ground end and scrape off the grunge. The pins must be shiny brass colored when you're done. With the ign. key in the 'run' position, there should be 12 V at the plug terminal of that pin you pointed to. There should also be 8V or so at the + side terminal of the ign. coil.--------- Don't forget to clean the plug terminal ends of the ECU, too.
     
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  5. Nebraskaorville

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    They're clean and shiny now. That's a "before" pic.
     
  6. chuzz

    chuzz Well-Known Member

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    Have you checked your bulkhead connector for corrosion?
     
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  7. Nebraskaorville

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    Nope - bulkhead connector?
     
  8. valiant67

    valiant67 Rich Corinthian Leather
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    Where the wires go through the firewall. I common electrical problem on the A body cars, the junction is often no longer sealed and the wires can corrode.
     
  9. Nebraskaorville

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    Will clean and re-seat. I got my Haynes manual in so now i have test procedures for everything. Will update when i get a chance to get back under the hood.

    Thanks guys!
     
  10. 68RT

    68RT Well-Known Member

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    Under ALLPAR repairs section, Vintage cars, Electric key I, you will find relevant information pertaining to your vintage car. Good read.
     
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  11. Nebraskaorville

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    IMG_3868.JPG Found my problem.
     
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  12. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    Really means nothing. China produces some excellent electronic products and some not-so-good. Think how many iPhones and iPads are out there.
    And the control circuits for many US nuclear power plants have been made there for 20 years now.
     
  13. Scrounge

    Scrounge Well-Known Member

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    I'd first have it tested, and at a parts store where you've researched their available stock online. But if that's the problem, its replacement is quicker than going through all of the wires. I'd opt for one with a lifetime warranty.
     
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  14. Nebraskaorville

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    IMG_3877.JPG IMG_3878.JPG IMG_3879.JPG IMG_3881.JPG IMG_3882.JPG Ok, head scratcher. Haynes seems to say I should have 12v at both cavities 1 and 2 of the ECU connector. It also seems to mix up which is cav 1 and cav 2. The picture caption says the tech is checking for voltage at cav 2 but in the pic he seems to have his lead in cav 1. See pics.

    So, with the key on am I supposed to have 12v at both cavs 1&2? I don't- I only have it at the top most cav- which according to their map and not the pic is cav1.
     
  15. Nebraskaorville

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    IMG_3883.JPG Even more weird- why the hell is this thing running a 6v coil!?
     
  16. Nebraskaorville

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    Disregard previous questions. The car runs if I run 12v straight to the coil- so I've got an open circuit between the ignition switch and the coil.
     
  17. Scrounge

    Scrounge Well-Known Member

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  18. Nebraskaorville

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    Lousiville, today.
     

    Attached Files:

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  19. pt006

    pt006 Active Member

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    With the ignition key in the run position. >>>.............. As shown in post # 54, pin cavity #1 should be 12V, # 2 should be 12V, # 3 should be 12V , #4 and #5 should be zero Volts - all measured with a meter. The inset diagram is for the connector plug end, not the ECU pins. -------- Replace the coil with a 12V unit.

    I converted an old 318 years ago. Swapped in the distributor, ECU, connector plug and wires, and 4 prong block resistor from a late 70's 318. I think only 2 wires had to be connected to the car. Worked great.
     
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