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Odd oil filter positions !

Discussion in 'Rumors and Speculation' started by DC-93, Aug 1, 2017.

  1. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    The location, or the oil? Filters are supposed to remain full after the crankcase is drained.
     
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  2. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    Regardless of the final orientation, I pour over 1/2 quart into a new filter while the oil pan is draining, and it all gets absorbed by the paper element. I then add as much as I can without it spilling as I screw it in place.
     
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  3. CudaPete

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    My uncle had a 6-71 in his fishing boat, Never left him at the dock in 40 years.
     
  4. mopar22

    mopar22 Well-Known Member

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    If it done correctly and on top f the engine it will be sitting higher then the pan. There will be a little bit but not a ton
     
  5. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    If what is done correctly? The oil filter is higher than the pan. On my car it's horizontal. It gushes when I replace it, as it's still full.
     
  6. voiceofstl

    voiceofstl Well-Known Member

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    K cars with the 2.2/2.5 were the easyiest.
     
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  7. Bearhawke

    Bearhawke Things happen for a reason

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    Oil filter thoughts:

    If discussing filters that face up; i.e. the 3.6L Pentastar, etc. , I vastly prefer the canister style (with the cartridge, O ring, etc) since the oil tends to drain back into the engine once the cap has been removed.

    Filters that face down or close to it i.e. the old 318-360 motors, I'll take a full flow spin on.
     
  8. Lorena

    Lorena Active Member

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    Top down oil change?

    Minivans take an extra step regardless with the filter due to the air intake [~1 min?]... however on another such as the Dodge Avenger/200: the top down oil change can literally take a matter of minutes.

    1. Take 15/16th/22mm socket on the oil cap,
    2. swap filter (lube new o-ring!)/replace cap
    3. extract oil
    4. fill oil
    check for leaks

    I see this as an improvement.
     
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  9. Meester Beeg

    Meester Beeg Active Member

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    Pikers, all of ya....
    The oil filter on my m/c is INSIDE the engine. Remove 14 Allen head bolts and drop the pan and sump spacer-two gaskets. Place pan on ground and spin off oil filter.
     
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  10. DC-93

    DC-93 Active Member

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    I agree on the Pentastar engines. Don't forget to torque the filter housing to 25Nm. That's important - to loose and you get potential leaks. Too tight and it can crack the plastic housing at install, or the next time you attempt to remove it.

    Here's a photo of an old 1960's era Slant 6. When you unscrew the white oil filter, you have to lift it up to clear the stand pipe and a quart of oil dumps out of the bottom, hopefully most falling into the well placed drain pan. ;)
    maxresdefault.jpg
     
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  11. 71Charger_fan

    71Charger_fan Active Member

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    '82 Camaro 2.8 liter 4-speed. Filter was a PITA between the engine block and the clutch linkage.
     
  12. mopar22

    mopar22 Well-Known Member

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    I'm not too sure but on the new 2.0t it's on the left hand side. You just replace the inverted filter and have the usual German oil filter housing. Many people on the gti forums have changed the filter before changing the oil.
     
  13. vipergg

    vipergg Well-Known Member

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    Definetly , those were simple to change but could be a litlle messy but easy to clean up.
     
  14. Lorena

    Lorena Active Member

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    Sweet slant 6 :) the positioning sounds almost as "fun" as transverse mounted ford modular engine filters.

    Oops, yeah - forgot the torque to spec part :) I've gotten used to the pressure that I just do the last turn or turn with the torque wrench. Sometimes I am right on the money without adjustments! :p

    I always tell ladies to get their guys torque wrenches and such. Getting 30 thousand random sockets over a lifetime is great for me for their yard sale, but I know I have way too many "useless" sizes. Everyone should have a series of torque wrenches. Bare minimum for anyone should be one large enough for lug nuts. If I have to lend a hand (small hands + tech know-how = volunteered).

    I'm a happy gal even when translating boyfriend/girlfriend :confused: garage talk until you hand me [​IMG]

    instead of: [​IMG]


    I detest "ezy outs" or whatever they are. Stripper allen caliper brake bolts are annoying enough when the outside is as smooth as the inside... without gaining a snapped off rod in it lol. :D
     
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  15. 1932highboy

    1932highboy Member

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    Don't you guys drain the filter before removing? I do, punch a hole in it and it drains the oil. No mess ,no fuss.
     
  16. mopar22

    mopar22 Well-Known Member

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    Gotta be careful just in case it doesn't want to come off
     
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  17. 1932highboy

    1932highboy Member

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    I always break it loose first, then punch hole.
     
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  18. CudaPete

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    Semi-vertical orientation of the oil filter on the slant six is the reason why the Ph8A has an anti-drainback valve.
     
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  19. pt006

    pt006 Active Member

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    Agreed. Before they put the anti-drain back valve in, all the oil in the filter would slide out and it was a race to lift out the filter before all the oil drained out. Started in the 80's, I think.
     
  20. codypet

    codypet Well-Known Member

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    My wife's Subaru has it to the left of the engine starting you in the face next to the battery completely away from the engine with the mouth facing down. Easiest removal ever.

    That 2.6 though. I have it in the minivan and its tucked up against the firewall next to the exhaust manifold and far enough away from the drain plug that you'll likely miss all the oil coming out of the filter. Easiest way I've been able to take it off is to lay behind the passenger wheel with a bunch of socket extensions. To put it back in, I have the lay on top of the car to reach far enough over the engine to put it back in. Its a beast and I feel like there's a crap ton of room in the engine bay of the minivans. I'd hate to think how much engine space is in the K cars.
     

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