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Odd oil filter positions !

Discussion in 'Rumors and Speculation' started by DC-93, Aug 1, 2017.

  1. amclaussen

    amclaussen Member

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    Exactly! To avoid a lenghty filter filling, I alway do a "PRE-LUBE" by turning the engine with the starter but NO sparkplugs and no injectors throwing fuel into the cylinders!

    In large industrial engines or gas turbines and compressors, there is always a PRE-Lube system...

    My own procedure for oil/filter change at home includes prelubeing the oil sytem, and is like this:

    1) With the engine running at operating temp, I add a botttle of oil system cleaner (Wynn's is my favorite).

    2) After running the engine for 5-8 minutes at fast idle, I stop it and remove the drain plug.

    3) while the engine is draining almost all the oil, I remove the sparkplugs. This accomplishes two things: allows me to inspect how are they working, and will facilitate to turn the engine freely when replacing the oil.

    4) I remove the oil filter and place some rags to prevent oil drops splashing around.

    5) With the sparkplugs out and the gasoline injectors disconnected, I give it two or three actuations of 3-4 seconds to the starter, so that oil clinging onto the piston rods is thrown out (the reason for stuffing rags into oil filter and oil pan drain!). This removes an extra half cup of used oil, specially if I allow some time for the remaining oil to creep down the engine. During that time, either I change the plugs with new ones or install previously used ones that are clean enough and only have their center electrode filed to restore the edge and re-gapped. (my engines have the "wasted spark" ignition system that erodes the edge from the center electrode).

    6) I put a small funnel into the new oil filter and fill about 3/4 of the capacity with new oil (it takes some dexterity to quickly align the new filter onto its threads and turn it quickly enough so that no oil is spilled. With some practice it can be done in my cars that have horizontal filters without spilling any oil.

    7) I put about 80% of the total oil capacity with new oil, enough to cover the oil pump pick-up.

    8) I give several "Priming" turns with the starter, but as there are no sparkplugs or injectors, the engine turns very easily and the starter motor does not overheat, but the engine gets 100% primed with new oil and oil pressure registers.

    9) Before going further, I check for any oil leaks, but as I'm careful enough to inspect the new filter and lube the gasket with oil, I've never experienced any oil leak, but checking it is preventive.

    10) I reinstall the plugs and reconnect the injectors, and let the oil go back to the pan to carefully fill the proper level. As I use a large PH8A or MFL-1 size filter instead of the smaller factory filter, I have to add an extra quart of oil, bringing the total capacity to 6 quarts in my 2.4L Turbo engine.

    11) Then I start the engine and let it warm up for 3 minutes, to re-check for leaks.

    12) After I clean and pick up used oil and every thing, I let the engine cool and write down notes on the small notebook that is always in the glove box, and that is invaluable in remembering when I did any maintenance on the car, like tire rotations, oil changes, timing belt, etc.

    I doubt there is ANY oil change place in the whole world that does an oil change in a so careful and complete manner, so I enjoy a job well done and actually have fun and relax doing it.

    Best Wishes. Amclaussen.
     
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  2. DC-93

    DC-93 Active Member

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  3. GLHS60

    GLHS60 Well-Known Member

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    Ferrari liked them on top too!!
    Thanks
    Randy

    [​IMG]
     
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  4. 68RT

    68RT Well-Known Member

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    I would hate to pull plugs on a V6 minivan every time I drained oil.
     
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  5. pt006

    pt006 Active Member

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    I would hate to pull plugs on a V6 minivan any time.
     
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  6. Doug D

    Doug D Virginia Gentleman

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    I'm NOT pulling 16 plugs on a Hemi every time I do an oil change. It takes 3+ hours to change them, why would I pull them for an oil change? :confused::eek::rolleyes:
     
  7. rapidtrans

    rapidtrans Well-Known Member

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    I haven't a clue where the filter is located on my 16 Charger.
    My procedure:
    Drive it into my dealer write-up bay. Drop-off car. Grab cup of coffee in show room and check out new cars. Car is washed and ready before i can finish my coffee. No stuck filters, faulty oil filters, old oil to dispose of or oil spots on my garage floor.
    The Monaco goes to the local quick-change shop i've been using for 20 yrs. Same guys has run the place for the same time. Likes working on my cars as the engine bay is always spotless.
    Show me it's full of clean oil on the stick and don't strip the drain plug. Done.
     
  8. Dave Z

    Dave Z It's me, Dave
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    Where’s your dealer? I’d like to go there.
     
  9. Meester Beeg

    Meester Beeg Active Member

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    Fixed it.
     
  10. CudaPete

    Ad-Free Member

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    You've fixed nothing but corrupted my statement. Please don't put words in my mouth.
     
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  11. Dave Z

    Dave Z It's me, Dave
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    Yup. I hate those “fixed that for ya” posts.
     
  12. Bearhawke

    Bearhawke Things happen for a reason

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    I've had some stubborn flow flow spin ons that were 'frozen' onto the gasket surface. With those; I chopped the rest of the filter housing away from the base plate, took a blunt chisel/large screwdriver and, using a hammer, tapped the edges of the baseplate holes counterclockwise..........the oil filter remains always broke loose and unthreaded. :)
     
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  13. 68RT

    68RT Well-Known Member

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    Tr
    Try one that the center post comes out with the filter.
     
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  14. AC TC

    AC TC Well-Known Member

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    Anyway, on slant doesent the anti drain back valve help a bit...guess what, the oil comes sloshing out of the center instead.
     
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  15. 68RT

    68RT Well-Known Member

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    Anti drain back valve only stops the fluid from draining backwards within the engine. Does not pertain to filter removal (oil can go both ways through the media when pulled). Stops dry starts on normal days. You are supposed to have run the engine till warm before draining oil and changing filter. Only a few minutes for oil to run off of needed lubrication surfaces instead of 12 or more hours (days/weeks?). Only a few seconds to fill the new filter after a change.
     
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  16. pt006

    pt006 Active Member

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    While the oil in the center section drains off immediately, the oil in the outer section of the filter can stay in the filter for weeks after sitting upside down in a funnel. This applies to the Fram filters I've used for years.
     
  17. Bearhawke

    Bearhawke Things happen for a reason

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    In all fairness: I've never had a stubborn spin on oil filter 'nipple'; the few times I had to get 'physical' with that type of filter. And on the off chance I did; pretty much every center post has a hex drive so, clamp the base plate remains in a vice and simply use the correct size wrench to unthread it.
     
  18. amclaussen

    amclaussen Member

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    Bad Advice! A smaller filter is always going to provide a smaller filtration area, more prone to fouling and having a higher pressure drop. Unless you reduce the oil filter change interval, but then it will require more filter changes.

    In my Dodge, I replaced the medium sized filter with a full quart larger filter (the PH8A or Motorcraft MFL1) that requires me to put 6 quarts instead of 5, and it is advantageous: more filtering area, more oil, same base and threads. Amclaussen.
     
    #58 amclaussen, Sep 11, 2017
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2017
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  19. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    Bigger doesn't always mean more filtration area. You have to cut a filter open and measure the square area to know that. Some small filters have more pleats packed closer together, and therefore have the same or more area as larger filters with the pleats spaced wider apart. I agree with the volume, which helps keep it cooler and dilute the contaminants.
     
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  20. Meester Beeg

    Meester Beeg Active Member

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    No offense intended. But it makes the statement "correct". Frams are famous for being junk, especially what they call the anti drainback valve. Years ago Ford issued a TSB on 302s with noisy lifters on cold starts. It was traced to the Fram filters draining down.
     
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