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Discussion in 'Projects, mods, restoration' started by TWX, Feb 9, 2008.
This is good to know. I'll just have to take the bed over to a place that can sandblast it...
Well, Saturday I have a painter coming over to look at the Cordoba's body to tell me what he thinks it'll cost for paint and body. It has no motor it it at the moment, and I'll pull the transmission and anything else that's in the way before taking it in to his shop. Currently I plan on asking about the following:
The car needs to be painted with the assumption that it might not be covered or stored indoors, what kind of paint would that entail and can the painter work with that kind of paint?
What kinds of additional expenses would be involved in media-blasting all of the outside surfaces to give a new paint job a better chance of lasting longer?
What kind of procedure would be used to paint the rubberized, flexible inserts that go between the body and the bumpers? How about the fiberglass header panel and quarter panel extensions?
The hood has some hail damage. Would this be just filled, or would the combination of torch and dry ice technique be applied to attempt to fix the metal itself? how much would that cost?
As the car will have a vinyl landau top, what kind of process would be best to do on that?
About how long, rough guess, would be necessary to complete the paint job?
Beyond the obvious trim and exterior detail being removed, how much else needs to be removed from the body prior to bringing it in for paint?
I have an extra set of fenders and an extra quarter panel. Would those parts be wanted, at least to have available, during the bodywork stage?
Anything else that I should ask him? He's asked me to have the body washed so that it's easier for him to evaluate it, so I plan on hitting it with the pressure washer on Friday night and towelling it off to remove any grit that the pressure washer missed.
Anyone have any suggestions on what to do to a car with some clear coat peeling off in just a few spots? I don't have enough money for even a cheap Maaco paint job now, but would like to do something to prevent further peel. I don't mind using some elbow grease if that's whats needed, I just need some general information on what I need to do. It's my sons 90 S-10. It's got just a few spots on the hood, roof and one door. Thanks for any information.
That totally depends on a few questions.
Do you want it to look 'great', 'good', 'OK', or just covered up till you have the opportunity to deal with it properly.
Peeling clear coat is a sign that the under lying color didn't have enough 'bite' to keep its hold on the clear. So if you don't strip the offending area, re-color and clear it, then it's a patch.
OK with that said you could do this.
Using a plastic card sharpened to like a knife edge, peel up around the edge till you get to a good area where the clear is clearly holding on to the color. Then you could use some DupliColor rattle can clear coat. Clean the area well then simply spay it on the effected areas. There will be over spray but once it dries and you've got say 3 good coats on it wet sand the entire area till it's as smooth as possible or as smooth as you want to make it. Use some 800 grit wet then 1000 then 1500 then 2000 all wet and don't use your hand. Get a sanding pad but not that huge block you get at Home Depot for wood. It's like a really hard sponge. Once it looks the way you want it then buff it out with some white rubbing compound if you don't have the 3M polishing compound.
It'll still look patched but at least it should keep it from peeling further till you can deal with it properly.
Thanks for the tips Bob. I'm not too worried about it looking patched as he'll be taking it to a college campus next fall anyway. Every car I had in college got dinged or scratched in a parking lot, so I'm sure the same will happen to him. I just want to keep it from further peeling. What would you suggest cleaning it with? I've got some acetone in the shed, would that work? Someone told me to use white vinegar and then rinse it with water. Your cars look very good where you painted them. What kind of prep did you do?
Sorry for not getting to you sooner. First use soap and water. Then you can use SCAT which is a degreaser and dewaxer. You can get SCAT or any other 'pre-paint prep' from the paint store. DO NOT USE lacquer thinner or acetone. Bad idea. Once you've done this paint it.
Of course you'll have done the prep which includes the chipping away of all loose clear coat and you'll have sanded the area around (the clear coat area) to give tooth or something for the spray to stick to.
i know this is an old post but if properly sanded and primed use tremclad for a cheap paint job i dont know if you get this product in the states but Ici sells a brand called Devo coatings and thier Devo gloss urethane work fabulous and is chemicel resistant ive used it on my race cars for 2 years and even a wall scrub can be wiped off. very durable. to polish you have to wait along time but it will polish
Does anyone have any advice on using a HVLP spray gun? I have used the old high pressure gun in the past for acrylic enamel, but now have a HVLP gun to reduce the vapors. I need to paint the new trunk lid for my LeBaron and can either paint it myself or job it out to a paint shop.
I used mine the same as any other spray gun. Just be sure it doesn't leak. What I mean is that because the paint is above rather then below the tendenancy to tilt the gun is there. Instead if you need to change the pattern do it at the nozzle.
If you're only painting the read deck lid it's simple to do either in a small booth which you make or in the garage with the floor wet to keep dust down. If you already have the gun and compressor why send the job out to a shop?
Is the new for the 2012 model year exterior color True Blue basically the exterior color Blackberry Pearl renamed, or is it an entirely new color?
I read about all those 'stages' of paint. You may not pardon me but if there is someone who really wants a nice inexpensive paint job on one of their older "beaters" may I suggest water-based latex exterior house paint applied by a roller.
I acquired this 1985 Chrysler Laser which was in rough shape. I got it running quite well but was not going to spend big bucks for a professional paint job. I went to ACE Hardware and bought a gallon of house paint and some rollers. I spent a good amount of time preparing the body, masking, etc.
The roller job took some time too, but in the end, a very satisfying job.
The car has been painted now for over 7 years and it still looks good. If it needs washing, just leave it out in the rain. How often do you wash your house?
Hey, You won't hear ME laughing. Intellitgent, informed people know about ALL types of paint, and what their similarities and differences are. It's a fascinating and informative technical world out there. I recall surfing a few years ago and several links came up that were related to "how to paint your vehicle with Tremclad".. A pretty good read for sure. I don't have the orig. links, but I know some came right out of an Allpar forum thread, circa 2009?, . (do search) and I remember there was an orange ('68- '70?) Charger and a black early Beetle - among others. The O.P. described in detail how to thin with Mineral Spirits, apply with fine-textured white foam roller and wet sand each time between the multiple coats. It seemed to be very 'labor-intensive' (for my liking) but results were superb. For those of you who follow my '69 Signet thread, I could not use the OEM type and method of painting so elected to go with single stage (Omni-urethane). This was not fun, initially, due to over-confidence, inexperience (with urethane - vs. acrylic) and NOT monitoring the fluctuations in ambient temperatures. ie. mixing paint, reducer and hardener in cooler A.M. and then painting mostly in warmer P.M. My '74 Challenger (painted 13 yrs. ago) was FE5-rallye red and that colour uses NO metallic But, my Valiant (in B7) which is a darker shade of blue, comes with metal in it. There would be no comparison if I was to use both colours on the same day with the same equipment. The red would almost be do-able with the eyes closed. The metallic is so tricky because, like I mentioned in my Feb, 2008 reply, there needs to be consistency and uniformity during application - otherwise the metal will 'pool-up' and be very noticeable under certain lighting angles and conditions. For this reason alone it is more necessary to wet-sand and power polish to correct flaws on urethane than (it should be) with base-clear. I cannot imagine (having to) sand between each multiple coat of base color PLUS after the clear has set up. Sure, this may or not be a personal choice when doing your own private vehicle OR if you pay someone for custom job BUT, at the end of the day, a professional body and paint shop that exclusively deals with insurance claims simply cannot afford to waste time by wet sanding, re-spraying etc. when they have to get (the vehicle) out and back to the owner - lickity split. :frusty: A good paint shop, with top-quality equipment (and down-draft booth) will do it right the first time.
Since this thread has had recent activity, and because I never saw a follow up, you have me curious, now did it turn out?
I'm doing the same thing to my 2002 Ram right now. The truck is a Chassis/cab and too large for my garage and too wide for my shop doors. The years have taken their toll on the roof and hood, the rest of the truck's paint looks new, so Im sanding down past the clear, sealing and reshooting the color and clear coat.
ok i didnt read everything in this post yet, but i think i can shed some light. the clear peeling that your talking about is because of the uv protectors they put in the clear coat. when the jap cars became popular in the 80s we needed to cut costs to compete, and that was one of the things they did. so if you want to have the better protection, u need a better clear. unfortunately, thats not cheap. last time i painted a classis car (71 cutlass) the clear was $450. you can actually use a cheaper paint, but a really good clear and get just as good of a paint job if u are doing a total car, not trying to repair/blend.
side note, if you are doing a complete, i strongly suggest using waterborne paint. there are 2 main reasons for that. 1, the color is outstanding. if u do a comparison to a bc/cc or urathane or even laquer, its insane to see how good it is. 2, they still use a urathane based clear because the waterborne clear is yet to be perfected. so u can use the high end clear that u wanted to in the first place.
hope this helped guys :thumbsup:
What did Chrysler use back in the 60's? ('66) Lacquer or an enamel?
I forgot what you CAN'T spray over the other.. One pair will play nice while the other will cause great havoc..
Saw a vid on DUSTLESS blasting that uses recycled glass and water (with a preventative)
Thought of this if I need to remove down to bare for the rest-mod of my '66 New Yorker.
Timeline looks VERY interesting. I would just like to see what the 'cleanup' is that they speak of. 4-5 bags of glass has to go somewhere..?
Wanted to do a heavy metal flake for hood, roof, and trunk then original color on sides..
OH, and has anyone used KIRKER paints?
Having rust repair done on my 2009 Challenger, might be factory issue, out of warrenty by 10 weeks.. Lower rear quarter panel front of wheel looks like its never been treated, paint peeling off because of surface rust. What is the proper way to treat it?
Ever think about waterborne paints. Durable and long lasting, with excellent color choices.