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PO660 trouble code

Discussion in 'Dodge Journey' started by e_bodydude, May 30, 2014.

  1. e_bodydude

    e_bodydude Active Member

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    Hi, everyone. Recently, I noticed our 2009 Dodge Journey(6cyl.) will jolt sometimes when shifting from reverse to drive. Also, a couple of days ago, the check engine light came on. I took it to Autozone today to have the code read and came up with a PO660 code. The printout reads; Definition: manifold tune solenoid circuit condition. Explanation: dual plane solenoid failure. Probable cause: 1) shorted or open tuning solenoid 2) electrical problem.
    My questions are: would it feasible for me to locate and test this solenoid and wiring myself with a multi-tester? Or, would it be better left to the dealer diagnose and repair the problem?
     
  2. ImperialCrown

    Level III Supporter

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    3.5L? Is it a consistent failure? I would erase the code once and see if it comes back. If it does, then certainly inspect the wiring between the MTV and the PCM. If that is OK, then I would suspect the MTV motor itself.
     
  3. e_bodydude

    e_bodydude Active Member

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    Hi, ImperialCrown. Is there any other way to erase the trouble code other than disconnecting the battery. The last time the battery was disconnected was 30,000 miles ago, when I changed the battery, and then the dealer charged us $200.00 to reprogram the computer.
     
  4. ImperialCrown

    Level III Supporter

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    A scan tool to erase codes would be the other way to do it. Most (if not all) auto parts stores will not erase codes, even if you ask them pretty-please to. I think that they got sued for it once.
    Advance auto will let me borrow the tool to read codes myself (especially if the counter is busy). This allows me to erase the codes myself on newer cars.
    I don't know what happened to your PCM, but a battery disconnect should not adversely affect the internal programming. You may have to reset the clock and express-up power windows, etc.
    Unplugging the connectors at the PCM is not recommended as a voltage 'spike' upon re-connection may cause issues. I wonder if this is what happened to yours last time with a battery re-connect?
     
  5. e_bodydude

    e_bodydude Active Member

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    Just before I replaced the battery(at about 40k), the ABS warning light turned on. I thought the light had something to do with jump starting the car, which is what we had to do to get to the autoparts store to purchase a new battery. It was raining hard as I walked from the store to the car with the battery. So, we drove with the old battery still installed in the car until we reached our destination an hour away, where it wasn't raining. After replacing the battery I noticed the ABS light was still on. The next day my wife brought the car to the dealer who discovered the bad sensor in the drivers side front wheel. The sensor was replaced, but the next day the starting problem had finally stranded her (previously the car would start after 5 or 10 minutes). Back to the dealer the car went. The dealer could not reproduce the no-start symptom and reprogramed the computer. Since then, one of our fellow Allparians had suggested running the shifter through the gears one time, which has worked for us.

    I ordered an OBD II scantool . With the new scantool (when it arrives) I'll clear the code. I may need help locating the MTV though. Would you suggest getting a shop manual for this car? I haven't gotten one by now because I didn't think there would be very much I could fix myself.
     
  6. ImperialCrown

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  7. e_bodydude

    e_bodydude Active Member

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    The dealer wants to replace the Manifold Tuning Valve Actuator first for $398 + tax. Then, if the problem isn't solved they want to replace the intake manifold for $602 + tax. Other than obvious cracks, how would one troubleshoot the upper intake manifold? The car still runs fine. Is there any danger in driving the car for another week until I get time to work on it? Also, the doors are now locking themselves when you open the doors and sometimes when you close them. The dealer estimates $225 + tax for a new lock switch (I'm thinking of getting one from the junkyard). As for the warranty, we didn't buy the extended warranty, and the 3 year 36 month warranty expired about 30k ago.
     
  8. ImperialCrown

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    If the $400 guess doesn't fix it, then the $600 guess should? I would demand better. It is your money that they are guessing with.
    The plastic manifolds could warp or possibly crack. This could bind the MTV shaft. A sticking shaft could set a fault code. You would have to catch it in the act for a proper diagnosis. It shouldn't hurt to drive it until you get a better answer on this issue.
    Did the door lock switch get wet? Sometimes if the window is left down and the switch get rained on it will do spooky things. The corrosion left behind can cause the switch to 'leak' current across the contacts in damp weather.
     
  9. tomit

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    Pat Goss (Motor Week) says there is a test for every code. I would ditch that dealer and maybe start calling around, asking how the shop would trouble shoot the problem. If the comeback is a recommendation to replace one or more parts, move on to the next shop.

    Just my 2 cents.

    Tom
     

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