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Questions on Magnum R/T

Discussion in 'Challenger, 300, Magnum, Charger' started by slojoe, Jun 14, 2017.

  1. slojoe

    slojoe Active Member

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    I picked up an 08, 5.7 rwd with 108k on it. Have a question on the spark plugs, as I will be changing them for preventive maintenance.

    Is the Autolite platinum good in a 5.7 and will it last longer than the 30k oem plug? Don't need 100k change intervals but 50-60k would be nice and the Autolites are 3 bucks apiece locally.

    I've looked around online but haven't found anything definitive.

    Any other tips for preventive maintenace would also be appreciated. So far I've changed out the engine + trans fluid&filter, and the gear oil in the rear diff.
     
  2. valiant67

    valiant67 Rich Corinthian Leather
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    The best plug is the copper plug. Nothing has a hotter spark than copper. Both the Hemis I bought used had 100k miles on the factory copper plugs (2005 300c and 2006 Magnum). They actually still were running pretty well. Some people switch to the NGK plug used in the newer Hemis. I believe they are platinum.
     
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  3. MPE426HEMI

    MPE426HEMI Well-Known Member

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    Don't waste your hard earned money. The recommended OEM Champion Copper plus plug RE14MCC4 is just fine for your '08 5.7 HEMI.
     
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  4. slojoe

    slojoe Active Member

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    OK i will get the Champion 570 which looks like the same number quoted above. 28 bucks shipped from Rock is 15 bucks cheaper than local. thanks for the tip.

    Any other tips on maintenance. There is a minor clunk from the front end on bigger bumps. Can't feel it, just hear it. Is this normal or is there a typical part that needs replaced at 108k?

    Also how long are the wheel bearings supposed to last?
     
  5. valiant67

    valiant67 Rich Corinthian Leather
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    Suspension clunks are very common, but should not be normal. Aftermarket parts usually are much better. I've not heard much about wheel bearings being an issue.
     
  6. ImperialCrown

    Level III Supporter

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    Can't really diagnose a clunk unseen. Check the usual suspects, like ball joints and tie rod ends for wear.
    I have had to replace compression links before. They are under tension and seem tight by hand. You won't notice a loosensess by hand unless one end of them is disconnected.
    I have also retorqued front crossmember and steering/suspension fasteners. They did have some slack and re-tensioning then has eliminated noises as well.
     
  7. Doug D

    Doug D Virginia Gentleman

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    I also would recommend the champions. The Hemi doesn't like platinum/double platinums. Allow yourself about 2-3 hours to change out the plugs. That's about how long it took me to change them out on my '06 Ram 1500 5.7L. It didn't help I took a few beer breaks. :) The worst ones to change (at least on my Ram) were on the driver's side under the brake booster. Due to the limited space under the brake booster I found using a ratchet, 3" extension and a swivel spark plug socket worked best. Otherwise I used a 6" extension. Found it helpful to remove the air cleaner to give better access to the passenger side plugs - you may not need to do this on the Magnum.

    FWIW - my Ram has 240K miles and the last two sets of plugs have lasted over 100K miles. Bought the truck new. Had the dealer change the original plugs at 35K ($275). The next time I changed them 102K miles later. They did show signs of wear (large gap), but I never had any starting issues. Fuel mileage gradually dropped - I think by 0.5-1.0 mpg - over that time. They are now (over) due to be changed again with another 100K on the 3rd set. Not looking forward to it.

    On a related note, my son just changed the plugs on his '07 Avalanche (5.3L). He installed Iridiums ($69.99 for 8 plugs). Only problem he had was accessing the rear most passenger side plug. Could only access through the wheel well and then he was working blind. Plus the plugs are at an angle (canted towards the firewall). Called me for advice. Told him to use a swivel connection and it worked.
     
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  8. valiant67

    valiant67 Rich Corinthian Leather
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    Oddly, the cars have better access to the plugs than the pickup does. That's not usually the case, but it is in the case of the Magnum, Charger and 300C compared to the Ram 1500.
     
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  9. Doug D

    Doug D Virginia Gentleman

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    Admittedly I have not really looked at the engine compartment of the cars. Just know the experience of servicing my Ram. Part of the Ram's issue is the engine sits back and slightly under the firewall. Accessing the plugs is by 1) working from above, I usually kneel on the front bumper and work from there (which kills my back after a while - also helps to kneel on a cushion or blanket) or 2) put the truck up on jack stands, remove the front tires and work through the fender wells though I fail to see how that is easier - just adds extra work. At any rate, car or truck, there are 16 plugs to R&R.
     
  10. MPE426HEMI

    MPE426HEMI Well-Known Member

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    As Doug D. said, your going to need a swivel. Remove the air box on the driver's side for access to that first plug. The passenger side on these LX's are the tight side and the oil dipstick tube is somewhat in the way. But there's still access, no problem.
     
  11. ImperialCrown

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    I believe that the brake master cylinder is in the way of the left side Ram Hemi plugs. A combination of 'MacGyver' socket extensions and wrenches should get you through.
     
  12. Doug D

    Doug D Virginia Gentleman

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    I found using a 3" extension and a swivel spark plug socket worked best. I think a regular spark plug socket with a separate swivel and 3" extension was just a wee bit too long. Just enough room to get the socket w/extension on the plug, then attached the ratchet. For the rest of them I used a 6" extension and regular spark plug socket. Note you need a 10 mm socket to remove the coil-on-plug.
     
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  13. valiant67

    valiant67 Rich Corinthian Leather
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    I never used a swivel on the cars (Magnum and 300c), just a few different length extensions.
     
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  14. sickboy

    sickboy Well-Known Member

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    Congrats on your purchase. I've done platinum and oem and I've noticed no difference in performance. I tend to do my maintenance at suggested intervals so the platinums just cost more. Glad you did your fluids, that is overlooked too many times, and in my case, trans flush and change was like night and day. Been pretty bulletproof but have had to change the u joint in the steering shaft. And watch for rust in the wheel wells.
     
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  15. slojoe

    slojoe Active Member

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    Thanks. I will gap the plugs to .043 as it says in my owner's manual. also anti-seize and dilectric grease. unless i hear otherwise.
    Also had the car undercoated last week but don't really know what is going on under all those plastic-looking panels...
     
  16. slojoe

    slojoe Active Member

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    So I got the plugs changed out. They were the oem spec champions. They looked good except the gap was at .050-55. Half the plugs were light brown/white with the gap around .055, the other half were a darker gray with gaps around .050.

    I assume the darker plugs with the smaller gaps were the ones from the mds cylinders and not being fired as much...? If so that is good news that the mds seems to be working.

    My next question is the power steering fluid. I read somewhere it is supposed to be ATF 4+, is that correct? thanks for any help
     
  17. Doug D

    Doug D Virginia Gentleman

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    I suggest you consult the owners manual. Some years it was ATF+4, but for most years it is actual power steering fluid.
     
  18. MPE426HEMI

    MPE426HEMI Well-Known Member

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    Here's the page right out of the owner's manual:
    IMG_3046.jpg
     
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  19. slojoe

    slojoe Active Member

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    I actually saw that page in the manual but it somehow didn't register in my mind. So thank you for clarifying.

    Final question for now... I took the car to the local Dodge dealer, I have had them do stuff for me before and some of their prices are better than local independent shops. I had them scan the computer to look for any aftermarket flashes, which they said there weren't any.

    Dealer said there is an update for "improved drivability" which they can flash into the car's computer. It will cost 90 bucks but they didn't say what it would do.

    Does anybody know anything about this update and what it actually does? thanks again for the help
     
  20. valiant67

    valiant67 Rich Corinthian Leather
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    There is probably a TSB associated with the reflash that would have the details.
     

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