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Revolux LED lighting...

Discussion in 'Car Dealer Hangout' started by Dave Z, Jan 6, 2017.

  1. Dave Z

    Dave Z It's me, Dave Staff Member Supporter

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    Revolux fixes lighting issues, cuts power bills

    Cars don’t always look good at night — when you can see them at all. New technologies are making it easier, though, to light up dealer lots without using more power — and to make them the light quality better, as well. Hence, the “FCA Bright” program, which the company says can cut total dealership power costs in half, while making the lots brighter.

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  2. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES" Level 2 Supporter

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    I replaced a dual halogen spotlight on my house several years ago with integral LED. The halogen had dual a150W bulbs. The LED has dual 10W lighting (20W), and is as bright as the 300W was

    I have two 4' LED shop lights in my new garage above each bay. So 4 lights at 40W each = 160W. They have the same brightness as 1200W incandescent.
     
  3. Dave Z

    Dave Z It's me, Dave Staff Member Supporter

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    LEDs are amazing - it's not just the efficiency, but the light is higher quality than just about anything other than incandescents. I've replaced all the bulbs I can replace with LEDs - mostly Phillips but a small number of Crees. (Quality vs price...)
     
  4. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES" Level 2 Supporter

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    I had two premature Cree failures, one at 1 1/2 years and one at 2 years. In both cases they intermittently failed to light, or flickered at a high rate of speed. Have not had a single failure of any other brand in 5 years, out of about 24 bulbs.
     
  5. Dave Z

    Dave Z It's me, Dave Staff Member Supporter

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    Interesting. I only have three Cree bulbs, with two Sylvanias; the rest are Philips. No failures yet. Maybe I was lucky, maybe you got a bad batch... thing is, LEDs are a new tech, I suspect quality will vary quite a bit from revision to revision as manufacturers improve designs and then try to extract cost from manufacturing. I have two or three of the very pricey ($35-40) Philips “L-Prize” bulbs (made in USA) which have very good light and efficiency — but those were quickly replaced by Chinese-made units at half the price and a little less quality, and then by a completely new design, much smaller and lighter, that looks more normal (though flat) but appears to have nearly the same light — $6, I think!

    It’s an industry on the move.

    I got the Sylvanias at about the same time as my first Philips bulbs, mostly because they have the brightness of 100W units and Philips wasn't there yet. The light quality is “bleh” but they’re in traditional lamps with off-white shades, and really you can't tell them from incandescents in there other than their lighting (ever so slightly slower) and their power usage (I think 10-12 watts or some such).

    I only use LEDs in open fixtures - which meant replacing a few fixtures. It’s hard to find open fixtures...

    In any case, there is NO comparison from fluorescent, mercury-oxide, etc to (well chosen) LEDs. The light from LEDs is far, far softer and more comfortable, and I think the distribution is more even. Our utility switched street lights to fluorescents a few years ago - bet they wished they'd waited a little while!

    ... course if you pick up an LED at the supermarket or hardware store, at random, or get the cheep one from Amazon, it's likely to be blue-tinged, low-light crap.
     
  6. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES" Level 2 Supporter

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    I have several ceiling lights that are integrated LED, never need service. One has 55 chips, uses 24W. Nice, even lighting. As you said, selecting the color temp is key. I try to go no higher than 3300K. Some are a ridiculous 5K or even 6.5K. Ghastly white or bluish-white light.
    The LED technology is not that new. We have had white LEDs for 25 years. What's new is building them into a bulb or fixture along with an AC/DC power supply.
    I remember being at an HP seminar in 1986 (when they had discrete optos as part of their product line). Someone asked back then if they had a white LED. They said sure, just plug it into a wall socket - but only works for 50 milliseconds. ;)

    Affordable blue LEDs are what made white LEDs possible. The first sample blue LEDs were $200 each, and $90 in volume.
     
  7. Dave Z

    Dave Z It's me, Dave Staff Member Supporter

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    I agree on the LEDs... the other issue has been getting enough brightness from a small enough space. I think that was the real block, especially since the early bulbs maxed out at 60 watt-equivalents. The 100 watt incandescent replacements are still a mixed bag.

    I haven't actually put in any integrated fixtures. I've seen ones that look like fluorescents. When I put in new fixtures, it was old fashioned Edison base units.

    AFAIK the way they balance color is by having filters around the LEDs. In the weird Philips “flat packs” they make them quite subtle.

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    I actually replaced the hoods on these, to get slightly smaller ones with pre-drilled holes in the back. The incandescent spotlights burned out quickly; the CFLs lasted longer, but not long enough. Heat buildup was probably the problem for the CFLs, but they were never satisfactory anyway.
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  8. Dave Z

    Dave Z It's me, Dave Staff Member Supporter

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    PS> Just so you don’t think I’m a one trick pony, here’s our steam header ;) They did not have thicker insulation than this!

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    Bob Lincoln likes this.
  9. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES" Level 2 Supporter

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    These are all from integrated LED lights:

    LED garage lights-s.jpg LED garage lights 2-s.jpg LED bedroom lights 2-s.jpg LED bedroom lights-s.jpg
     
  10. Dave Z

    Dave Z It's me, Dave Staff Member Supporter

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    Very nice. If I was building anew, I'd do those. In the garage, actually, I can do that - I really need to move the fluorescent light, it was installed in the middle so if I open my hood, it's dark underneath.