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Rotors

Discussion in 'New Challenger, 300, Magnum, Charger' started by Dave Z, Feb 1, 2019.

  1. Dave Z

    Dave Z It's me, Dave
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    Moment of truth,..

    Mopar original, Bendix, Raybestos, Delco, or... ? there is a serious price difference for Mopars. The originals seem to be stamped “Bosch” but I don't see where those are buyable.
     
  2. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    I have been using Centric, because they are reportedly the only one who processes it from raw casting in China, through machining and heat treatment, in the US. They've held up well. I did get some brake shoes from them that had linings so thick that the drum would not go over them. But the disc brake parts have been fine. Semi-metallic.
    I've also used NAPA premium pads and rotors, that work great.
     
  3. Dave Z

    Dave Z It's me, Dave
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    Interesting... I hadn't considered Centric. I did find Bosch rotors but they're $87 versus $40-45 for Bendix, which used to be pretty reputable. NAPA premium sounds good as well. — ah, $64 each for the fronts, $58 for the rears.

    $76 for the rears if I go for "ultra premium" which I might do though by then I'm close to Mopar pricing. (Front rotors are cheaper, $67.)

    Centric runs $85 for premium, which is about the same as the original Bosch. They also have a standard brake rotor for $44.

    I noticed they also have severe duty rotors. Those are mildly tempting but probably a bad idea. Any thoughts?

    Pads are another $30 to $95 each - dang. For the life of me, I can't figure out how to tell their lines apart; am I Proformer or Premium?

    It's still two pads per wheel, right? ;)
     
    #3 Dave Z, Feb 1, 2019
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2019
  4. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    When you buy a box of pads, you get 4 - so you get enough for one axle.
    I bought the Centric pads and Raybestos rotors in 2016 for my wife's car. She burned through the pads in 22K miles. I did them the summer of 2018 and she is already halfway through those pads at 9K miles and 9 months. It's her, not the pads. The rotors look OK. This set is the NAPA Proforma semi-metallic. They are silent, grab well, but do leave a LOT of dust behind on the rims. Then again, considering how my wife uses them, that may be normal. They never leave that much dust on my cars.

    Make sure to buy silicone brake grease, and to clean the guide bolts and the rubber boots, and regrease the bolts well. Also use new mounting clips for the pads to slide in on the caliper brackets, and to grease those well. Makes a big difference in them wearing equally and moving properly.
     
  5. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    This is from my wife's 97 Camry. I had the dealer do the brakes only because it was Dec and I didn't want to work outdoors then. They charged $500 for new front pads and rotors and labor, at 130K miles.
    At 163K miles, they were not grabbing well, so I did them myself (warm weather). They must not have greased the caliper guide bolts, because you can see here, the left outer pad (worn at an angle), the left inner pad (gone!) vs a new pad.
    And that's why we grease the pins and the tracks the pads slide in.

    97CamryBrakesMay2010-0003s.JPG
     
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  6. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    And these are from my 92 Daytona at 173K miles, with 48K miles on Chinese pads and rotors in 2001. I didn't hear, feel or find any problem braking. Just a routine check and when I lifted the calipers off the rotor, the pads fell apart:



    92Daytona-brakes-0001ss.jpg

    92Daytona-brakes-0002ss.jpg
     
  7. Doug D

    Doug D Virginia Gentleman

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    Bob, your wife drives like mine. Mine is hard on the brakes and hard on the accelerator like an on/off switch. There's no in between.

    As far as pads go, I switched to ceramics on my Ram. Same brake performance and far less brake dust. Unlike my wife I am moderate on the gas and brakes. I anticipate traffic as much as possible and sometimes don't need to hardly touch the brakes. Six months before my wife totaled our Journey I had replaced the rear pads (ceramic) and rotors. Unfortunately I never was able to see how they had been wearing though I could tell there was far less brake dust than with the semi-metallics.
     
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  8. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    And are they quiet, or do they squeal when cold and need to warm up to become quiet?
     
  9. Doug D

    Doug D Virginia Gentleman

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    Yes, the ceramics are quiet. I've never heard them squeal. The front pads were replaced about 47K miles ago and it has been 92K miles since the rear pads have been replaced. They showed good wear the last time they were checked. I'm averaging 600 miles per month since I've been telecommuting on a daily basis for over a year now.
     
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  10. AHBGuru

    AHBGuru Active Member

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    Correct, Bosch rotors, Akebono ceramic pads for retail cars.

    Napa carries a Bendix rotor/pad combo at a good price.
    Most of the smaller police agencies around me use the Bendix SD kits for their Dodges, so I wouldn't be afraid to use those.

    Considering these cars use the 2-pc rotor and hub, unlike our older cars, the Mopar parts are overpriced.
     
  11. wtxiceman

    wtxiceman Well-Known Member

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    Do the ceramic pads wear the rotor out?
     
  12. Doug D

    Doug D Virginia Gentleman

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    At last check by a shop they did not mention whether the rotors had worn to the point of replacement. Then again they may have just measured the pad thickness and not checked the rotor thickness. I'm sure if the rotors were that bad they would have recommended replacement. I need to get the tool to measure the actual thickness.

    I have read the ceramic pads could wear out the rotors since the pads are harder, but semi-metallic pads will eventually wear out the rotor as well. I tend to replace both pads and rotors anyway so the point is moot.
     
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  13. LouJC

    LouJC Active Member

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    IMG_0538.JPG IMG_0536.JPG When I did the rear brakes on my '07 Jeep I went with OE even though more expensive because the pads routinely lasted 50K miles and the rotors were still not worn down to the limit, I changed them only because of rust. 109,000 miles. Going to do the front when it warms up. Not a fun job if the rotor is rusted on. On the '98 I use aftermarket because the OE were lousy composite rotors. I get 6-8 years out of them before they get too corroded to use. IMG_0554.JPG IMG_0552.JPG IMG_0553.JPG

    PS had to use the 2 bolt trick on the rotors to get em off. They were really stuck on there. On the '98 since I had to do brake jobs much earlier, and coated the hubs with anti seize, the rotors literally just fall off.
     
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  14. Dave Z

    Dave Z It's me, Dave
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    Guess I'll try the Bendix, then. Did you say they use the SD for standard duty, rather than heavy duty? I appreciate the recommendation.

    FWIW, the wear on the rear rotor was pretty bad but the fronts looked clean. Both very smooth, no ridges etc. 70,000 miles on the brakes of a 300C - that's pretty amazing to me. The fronts don't really need to be replaced but for a little rotor warping, not too noticeable. I'm thinking of just doing the rears at this point to test out the new brakes...
     
  15. AHBGuru

    AHBGuru Active Member

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    SD = Severe Duty, only available for the BR8/BR9 police brakes.

    BR8 is the 2012 - mid 2014 police brakes, 345/320 rotors front-rear, metallic pads, 2-piston iron alloy calipers, etc.

    BR9 is mid 2014 - current police, 370/350, metalliic, special hoses.

    You should be able to determine what you have via the rotors (stamped) or just pull your specs from the Chrysler owner page. You'll definitely have ceramic pads. Bendix was Chrysler's primary brake supplier for many years.

    I have a '13 V8 Pursuit, and my cost for the rotor/pad kit was $265+ tax. You might get a slightly better deal via RockAuto if you have a current discount code (talk to Ebooger).

    Good plan on doing the rears first. Check your swaybar links while you're back there, good time to swap them out.
     
  16. Dave Z

    Dave Z It's me, Dave
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    Ah... got it. I do have ceramic pads, Bosch rotors as mentioned earlier. Will look at the sway bar links. I don't have police brakes so I'll have to pass on the severe duty! I thought about Bendix exactly because they were Chrysler's primary supplier for so long. I am tempted by the pricier “coated” rotors because they would feel and sound more like the originals, no?

    Side note, AFAIK, you're always supposed to replace the rotors with the pads these days.
     
  17. LouJC

    LouJC Active Member

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    The coated rotors are for corrosion resistance, they should reduce the corrosion you see in my 'old brake' pic above, note that the new ones (OE Mopar) are coated. I have seen a number of newer Jeeps with the coated brakes from the factory and they seen to last longer before getting really rusted. So I tried em this time on the '07 Jeep. If it works out the next time I do the brakes on the '98 I'll use coated rotors too.

    BTW I have zinc coated brake drums on my boat trailer. It gets dunked in salt water about 4 times per year (launch and retrieve twice a season usually, the boat stays on a mooring most of the season) and they have held up surprisingly well. I installed them way back in 2004! Most boat trailer drums if made of plain cast iron are totally corroded in a few years here (Long Island NY, salt water)….
     
  18. Dave Z

    Dave Z It's me, Dave
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    Thanks for the info on coated. I should go with those, then... that explains why they still look new.

    ...Dangit, I'm looking at Rock Auto (best prices by far) and it doesn't show any front Bosch rotors being vented, maybe they all are? (Thinking of sticking to OEM, here.) Also, they show different rotors for 320mm and 350mm cars... do I really have to take off a wheel and measure, or is there an easier way? It's a RWD 300C V6. Both 320 and 350mm options show as "standard."

    I was going to go Bendix but they're both the same company...

    Anyone do this on a 2011+ L-car? I'd like to know if changing brands also makes the brakes less “grabby” on the first light touch...
     
  19. valiant67

    valiant67 ...

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    Have you looked at your car's configuration in the owner's part of Chrysler.com? It will probably list your brake size there.
     
  20. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    Giving your VIN to the dealer should determine the brake size. Then again, two different dealers told me two different rear drum sizes for my truck.
     

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