AF: slant six oil pan installation | Allpar Forums
  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

slant six oil pan installation

Discussion in 'Vans' started by A108V, Aug 27, 2016.

  1. A108V

    A108V Member

    Aug 27, 2016
    Anyone have any tips on installing an oil pan on a slant six? I've tried a couple times and keep getting leaks. I've seen instructions on various sites and still have poor results. Any tricks or tips? Thanks for your assistance.
  2. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator
    Level III Supporter

    Jun 8, 2008
    Welcome to Allpar. Is it leaking at the front and rear end seals or along the sides? I have 4 nylon 'studs' that came as 'installation tools' with the gasket to hold it in place until I can get all the bolts started. Sometimes undoing a motor mount and lifting the engine slightly helps to clear the crossmember, especially with sagged rubber mounts.
    Cork is obsolete as a gasket material. Much stronger, stiffer rubberized materials are available. The holes that the bolts go through have nylon collars to prevent squishing the gasket at the bolt pinch point that can create leaks.
    Follow the gasket manufacturers instructions about use of additional sealers. Some recommend a dot of RTV sealer at the seams between the iron block and front and rear aluminum housings.
    Torque the bolts evenly in degrees all around in 2 or 3 steps.
    I have had pans where the bolts have bent the oil pan side rails inward, leaving 'divits' from being over-tightened. The bolt holes can be hammered flat again on an anvil and steel arbor.
  3. dana44

    Ad-Free Member

    Jun 17, 2002
    Completely agree with IC, the pan rails have most likely been overtightened over the years and they can't clamp properly, so, I always take a 2X4 or other piece of wood, sit it against the side of the pan the bolt head will tighten against, then tap the rail flat. You can usually see or feel it being dimpled toward the engine, and this hits before the rail can squish the gasket. Once they are flat, I like to then take a bolt that is one size larger than the bolt hole and give it an extra little dimple so the head of the bolt actually pulls the rail, not just the bolt hole itself when tightening.
    RTV as noted, too, should not be blobbed on, it should be smeared very thin. Remember, the gasket is going tight against the surface between the pan and the block and even the tiniest smear still squishes out, so less is best, and make darn sure the pan rail and the block rail edges are all cleaned with some kind of solvent, like lacquer thinner, acetone, carb or brake cleaner on a clean paper towel or clean cloth, make sure there is absolutely nothing greasy on those gasket surfaces, which also helps the RTV stick and actually seal.
    floridaman2013 and ImperialCrown like this.

Share This Page

 We are not affiliated with FCA. We make no claims regarding validity or accuracy of information or advice. Copyright © VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.