Discussion in 'All other classic cars' started by 71Charger_fan, Nov 26, 2016.
It's a knock off of a Weber DGEV 32/36 progressive 2-bbl.
I needed a timing chain and gears for the '53 flathead that's in the wagon. Finding affordable American-made parts for that engine was doable, but not easy. Thanks to Craig of Mobile Parts on Long Island.
Can someone say 'vintage' repair parts, just going by the typefaces on the boxes?
How about no bar code to scan.
The forecast for snow yesterday missed the mark by a mile and it was sunny and reasonably warm (for February). So, I went outside to eye up how big a job the timing chain was going to be. I didn't see any way to do it without pulling the radiator. So, it can wait.
Bar codes became popular in the retail trade ca 1982, those boxes look more like something out of the 1960's or earlier.
I worked with parts for heavy equipment starting in the mid seventies and retired in 2017 and none of my suppliers used bar codes. Only four produced over a thousand units per year. Some only about one a month. Needless to say, I never needed a bar code reader. It would have made inventory easier if they did have codes. Most had hand written part numbers on them. Or I made printed labels for boxed items to make it more professional.
Ah ... memories.
The first car I ever drove was a 56 Plymouth wagon (277 Poly, 3 speed column shift with OD, 4.11 axle) ... wish I still had it but Mom hit a steer in LaJunta CO with it in '63 and we got a 58 Ford to replace it.
I met a lady last summer who was returning to NC from NY in her '56 Plymouth wagon. I thought it quite gutsy given how hot it was at the time.
The other boxes are newer, but that BorgWarner box is old. I would guess from early 60s on back.
I'm in Bullhead City, Az and, Kingman which is about 30 miles away got blasted Thursday: it was the biggest storm since 1932..........above 12" of the stuff.
Yesterday, I finally got that elusive combination of a warm, dry day where I wasn't babysitting. So, out to the driveway to try and get the wagon started. I pulled the fuel line off of the carb and put it in a plastic bottle then hit the starter. No gas in the bottle. So, on the off chance my swap meet fuel filter was defective, I swapped in a clear plastic one and hit the starter again. When I saw the plastic one start to fill with fuel, I put the hose back on the carb and it started right up. Just when I thought I'd fixed it, it died. No fuel coming from the accelerator pump, so I checked again and realized it wasn't pumping fuel. So, then I thought the "new" fuel pump I'd installed must have already gone bad, so I swapped it with another NOS one I had on hand. Still no fuel flow. Then, I did what, in hindsight, I should have done in the first place and pushed some compressed air through the line until I heard the fuel tank bubble. Hooked everything back up and it started right up and ran. Now, I'm thinking I need to drop the fuel tank and send it off to get it cleaned out and coated.
Just a guess, but the strainer in the tank that the fuel gets sucked through sounds clogged.
Servicing the tank sounds like a good move.
Could have a pinhole in rubber hose or fuel line that slowly allowed fuel to drain back into the tank. Could vacuum test the line between the pump and tank when tank is pulled.
Today, I installed an NOS piece of hood trim I acquired from another member at forwardlook.net.
Today, I took it in and had new tires installed. There's not much selection in 75 series anymore. I read that if a tire doesn't have a DOT date code, it's older than 1990. My tires had no date codes.
Today, I took it out for a ride and it seemed to be suffering from the ignition breaking up and fuel starvation. I pulled the fuel filter and was quite shocked by how much rust came out of it. After putting on a new filter, I pulled a couple of plugs. On both, the electrodes had been hit by the valves and the gaps had closed up to about .020 (should be .060 with HEI). I looked down in the cylinder and saw a nice shiny circle inscribed on the valve (at least the valves are rotating) by the plug electrode. So, I've ordered a set of indexing washers. That should fix that problem.
Here are the plugs after the valves hammered the electrodes almost closed.
Yeah, that's not supposed to happen. I guess new plugs that are deeper tipped would be better than index washers so there are enough threads into the head prevent problems. I don't know about that .060 due to the HEI distributor, thought it was better around .045, which still wouldn't have cleared the valve banging into them, unless you floated the valves from over revving the engine (which I doubt happened).
Yesterday, I finally got up the nerve to tackle replacing the cracked driver door glass. It wasn't too bad of a job. The worst part was after getting the unbroken glass on to the regulator, I had trouble getting to sit square in the door. I finally realized that a regulator roller had popped out of a small length of channel attached to the inner door skin. Once I popped that back in, it went fine. Even getting the vent window assembly out wasn't difficult. Now, I have to get new window channel.