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Discussion in 'PT Cruiser' started by PTRed, Dec 6, 2006.
The orignals would all be 01's
Oh, I guess I thought it was if you got one originally and still have it, you were in the "club".
End of the year and I still have my 01. Showing 111K miles now. Got it in October 2000. I just put a third set of tires on it. Futura 205-55-HR16's. $58/tire + installation and tax at Pep Boys. Made in USA too!
As a quick side note --
Good to see you back, Rocketman, PT Red , et al - missed you - sorry for so many forum changes, so quickly.
Susie's last name was indeed Scott. I believe that was her. A real shame - she seemed so nice -- never recall her being short, snippy, or hostile. She was a good egg.
Just a quick update. Had to change out the front power window switch module. Got one from Rockauto. Good price/prompt service.
RockAuto's good, all right...
Side note, I'm fine with keeping dana44 in the club... esp if he was one of the original old ptcruizer.com gang...
It took me a few years to buy one, myself. I was waiting for the GT - -then for the GT price to fall so I could afford it. Shoulda just gotten a 2001!
Well, the PT is now a teenager, 13. Took delivery 10/18/2000. Half way to historic status here in NJ, 25 years.
PT's been running good up until today. A little stumble on acceleration, and ping, CEL comes on. Code P0340. $50 for a new cam sensor, 15 minutes to put it in, and all is well again, knock on wood!
Another set of rear brakes pads, rotors were fine, and we're still cruising along.
Well, starting to get a little chilly in the morning and dew forms on the Cruiser's glass and mirrors. Hit the defrost switch, amber light comes on, mirrors begin to clear, but dew remains on the rear window. I quickly determine there is no power to the defrost grid. Check the schematic and power comes from a 40A fuse in position 8 in the PDC. It then goes to the ON/OFF switch and then to the timer before branching off with one circuit to a 10A fuse located in the interior fuse panel for the heated mirrors and the other circuit to the rear defroster. So, in my case the fuses were OK since the heated mirrors still worked. Found a broken wire (black/white) in the rubber bellows located between the rear hatch and body. A simple splice should repair this.
Passed NJ state inspection. Good for another 2 years.
I purchased my PT in April of 2005.. 107,000 miles later and wow. I have had the whole top end of the engine replaced. New transmission linkage (Mine is a 5 speed Manual), Dash replaced (It kind of melted and shrunk by the windshield), WATT Link replaced, 4 sets of front brakes, 1 set of rear shoes, 2 replaced rotors, 3 sets of tires, 2 major accidents, 4 front bumper covers (the approach on my driveway is really steep).. All that and I have used my car to haul thousands of pounds of grass, junk to the dump, music equipment over and over again as well. Thus far, I have taught 3 of my kids to drive stick shift and 1 girlfriend and getting ready to teach my youngest to drive stick in just a few months. Then, probably out to pasture with her.. She has served me pretty good and I love the configuration of the little PT. Just can't work on it any more... It now needs front brakes again and front struts..
Well, it finally broke freezing today so I thought it was a good opportunity to change the PT's oil. Up on the ramps, out come the drain plug....along with the threads to the Aluminum pan. What to do? Bought an oversize drain plug and it went right in, no leaks. Back into the ice box tomorrow...... LOL!
I had the same problem several years ago, the dealership used a pneumatic wrench and overtightened a couple times. I also did the oversize plug to tap andrethread it, next time I changed the oil I filed the sharp cutting edges off the bolt so in case I started it off the new threads it wouldn't cut new ones and end up the same later.
Seems like the oil pressure switch is acting up. Oil light on dash occasionally alarms at idle "PING!" and then immediately goes out. I know it is located at the left lower rear of the block but how do you access it? Can't seem to get a good feel on it from above. Any easier from below?
It isn't as bad as it seems at first. You need to reach up towards the left side of the engine, pretty much above where the power steering cooler is located. Make sure you have the proper socket to get the switch out. Then, more by feel than sight, slide the red locking clip over and then remove the electrical connector. from there, just remove the switch and install the new one. However, be prepared to have some oil run down and onto the ground; or your face if you aren't careful. Definitely not a job to do with the engine and exhaust hot.
Thanks for the reply. Tried and can't get my hand up in there. Any suggestions?
Installed new fronts pads and rotors, Wagner ThermoQuiet pads/Raybestos rotors. Car is listed for sale in the "For Sale" forum if anyone is interested.
I now have 2 PT's, My original 2001 an I just bought a 2005
Okay, oil pressure switch is replaced. My friend is a professional mechanic and has a lift. Took him all of 15 minutes. Old switch was leaking.