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TWO QUESTIONS ABOUT '68 P.W. - - LIKELY MORE TO FOLLOW

Discussion in 'Power Wagon' started by Volunteer, Mar 25, 2015.

  1. pt006

    pt006 Active Member

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    Volunteer; Check the voltage limiter before installing the dash [12 V ; ground; and a flashing 5 V being sent to the gages---I think]. They go bad with age.
    'Perfection' brand clutch showed up somewhere for your truck. I couldn't find it for sale though.

    In the 70's. there were holes in the firewall for the plow package rods going to the plow control valve.
     
  2. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    I will definitely check voltages as the gauges were working before - - so I was told. Primarily the fuel and temp would be ones to watch as the oil guage is 'manual'.
    I also got a box of more fasteners today and there are some grommets. It will take me some time to sort things out to see what is useful and what is junk.
    Oh, and not sure if I mentioned in previous posts that I did get some (correct) U-joints. I checked all over (just like for clutch parts) and figured I'd try a little speculation. So, I searched at a couple sites for something sure to fit and typed in: 1969 Ford F-100 2wd with 300-6. The Delco listings came up and all the dimensions were 'spot-on' identical to my (OEM) joints - 1-1/16 diameter cups, 3.25" from outside of one cup to outside of opposite cup and external clips. The Delco P.N. is 45UO107.
     
  3. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    Well, as I await arrival of clutch kit, I installed the FORD U-joints and they fit PERFECTLY - Now, if all the parts suppliers can make a correction in their listings, we will be that much closer to a 'perfect world'. (lol)
    I did some more searching and came across site called www.sweptine.com and there are LINKS to follow. FIRST, I clicked on Tech Resources, then Electrical Tech, then Wiring Diagrams - Click Here and finally on 68wire.JPG - - - to produce the SCHEMATIC I am seeking. (whoo-hoo!!) Yes, there may be a similar link in Allpar but It would probably take me (seriously) all day to find it.
    Now I get me over to local 'li-berry' to print out the page. Some of the color-codes are a bit hard to read but this is as easy for me as is reading blue-prints by a contractor. I mean easy to READ / FOLLOW but still time-consuming to trace and set-up everything. Stay tuned.
     
  4. Shane Estabrooks

    Shane Estabrooks Active Member

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    Hi Volunteer, sure know the issues you are going through to restore your truck, I have a 1951 M37 Power Wagon and until resent all info and parts were in the USA and with dollar and fuel prices I thought I'd never get my project going. I made a contact in Ont. who is also knowledgeable too. Your truck looks awesome and looking forward to seeing completed pictures of it. Sure got to love Allpar for Knowledge and experience. Another place I get info and contacts is g741 forum, hope that helps.
    Shane
     
  5. ImperialCrown

    Level III Supporter

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  6. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    Thanks to both of you. I will follow those and other links. I also browsed thru the '64 to '74 Chilton manual and lots of info on drive-lines including tranny and (-201) transfer case - basic things like setting up linkages and checking clearances. Fortunately though, both these items are very tight and very clean. Some of the members on the Truck-only forums have privilege of one or more parts vehicles. I remember when it was actually fun to drive - just about anywhere - for pleasure, but with the 'volatile' price of fuel, it keeps me closer to home. I am sure some of the members in California know what it is like to have pump prices shoot up unrealistically - but, unlike this side of the border, those prices will likely decline before end of August.
    Oh, and did I mention also that there are some good videos on YouTube showing restored and unrestored trucks. I just had to search for them. thanks
     
    Shane Estabrooks likes this.
  7. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    Still a long way from being a 'perfect world'. I have the Schematic printed and well examined - however, many irregularities. It is easy enough to distinguish between the three main bulkhead connectors but I am having difficulty with the lower left-side. Since all the wiring and switches came in two 5-gal pails, there are many wires and harnesses that do not belong - - from '66 parts truck. Also, some of the wires are blue with yellow tracers and black with yellow - and no indication on the schematic. I'd say that only 50% of the circuits can be figured-out by simple referencing - the rest are going to have to be done by 'process of elimination'.
    And, I still have cables and brackets/braces to deal with. A truck as basic as this should take 6 weeks to put together - - not 6 months.
     
  8. 98gcawd

    98gcawd Member

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    Is there much difference in the wiring between '68 and '69? I know they completely redesigned the dash for '69. I have a '69 FSM somewhere in my stuff that I could copy for you - if I find it! Is your truck a short bed? I had a neighbor ages ago that had a '68 W100 short bed with Dana 44/60 8 lug diffs. I had a '69 W100 long bed with 5 lug Dana44/Chrysler 8 3/4 diffs.
     
  9. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    Hi, yes, very similar to your neighbor's truck - everything you described, and of course with 4-spd. They did make several changes throughout for '69 - as I've referenced thru many sources. The wiring had progressed well so far but time-consuming. Everything that is to connect to back of cluster is visible and labelled. There were several 'grounding' issues and one bulkhead - lower/left- had internal rust - a pretty good insulator. More noticeable was the fuse block - 8 spaces but only 6 fuses (3 on each row). All of the contact surfaces were very rusty where fuses sit. Time-consuming but best way I found to remedy this was to (painstakingly) remove the terminal ends one by one - yes, with small thin-blade screw driver. A round file, about 7/32" would clean out the pairs of each curves very well. The terminals with blades on back side could be removed completely for better buffing.
    Now I am at the firewall cleaning up the engine-bay harnesses. Truck already had (OEM type) electronic ign. so the ballast and module need to be located - not sure where orig. module fitted. Also, I am converting to later-style charging system (with sealed reg. and 3-wire alternator). It is recommended to do this when using an E.C.M. as current/voltage fluctuations can harm the module.
    Still waiting on a couple clutch sources but looking more and more like old plate will go back in. Not a huge effort to replace at later date - only shorty driveshaft to remove, and of course the tranny.
     
  10. pt006

    pt006 Active Member

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    Volunteer; Electronic ignition came in in the early 70's. A good ground is necessary for the module. I like the star washers with bent ends, as they dig thru paint. Add a dab of grease. A double ballast type is req'd.

    Good move with the alternator swap. Note that the sealed regulator must also be grounded well.

    I'd also give the distributor a 'tune up'.

    Did you try International trucks for the clutch plate? A long shot, but International tractors might have one or know where to get yours refaced.
     
  11. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    Someone did convert prior to (OEM/factory-type) electronic as there is a harness and distributor - - - but no module. I could not even find where it was fastened - even by using wiring lay-out. No big deal. I have brand new Standard module and that is now attached securely (with 1/4" bolts&nuts) thru the firewall - as well as the regulator. I will try to take and post photo(s) of latest progress. Distributor is very 'gummy' inside and very slow and long 'curve'. I have several units already cleaned and set up so will use one that will enable about 12-degrees (static) on crank and no more than 34 tops. This is only a 318 with (re-ground) factory cam so nothing outrageous.
    I am still considering all the P.P. options but used piece will likely go back in. Plate is smooth so I may only 'restore' the finger contact surfaces - equally. This part can easily be replaced later as the system is well-suited for clutch re&re - - (t-case removal not required). As I type this, 90% of electrical resto is complete. I even bolted starter to b-housing to work with 'turn-key'. Alternator will come later once engine installed - as well as rest of harnesses. Point of note is that there is a manual oil gauge and also 'infrastructure' for Idiot Lite. I may go with both. Just the blower wiring to figure out - as per the schematic. There are 3 terminals on switch and 3 on resistor at top of unit but vague descriptions (on schematic). I will put cluster back in to test the Fuel, Temp and Alt - - but they worked well on bench. Tank has to go in anyway - and blue wire to sender, etc.
    Thanks for input.
     
  12. pt006

    pt006 Active Member

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    volunteer; some pp fingers were adjustable. It's important to have the finger' tips all the same height.

    80's dodge trucks with both a gage and an idiot light have a Y shaped tee near the distributor. Should work for you.
     
  13. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    Well, about time I updated for the few loyalists awaiting patiently. o_O
    It's been five months since I started on the truck and still work to do. It's not like I have all the free time to commit - on the contrary I can spend only two hours a day on average. There are simply too many other activities, events, issues and priorities to fill out my days. It's no secret that this truck was a total resto. All the parts brought to me were in total disarray - including a large tray of dirty, rusty or 'awol' fasteners. (sigh).
    I got the engine, clutch and driveshafts in about a month ago. After repeated requests, the original exhaust system (well, most of it) was brought to me. Important part was the front pipe - 'two into one' piece- that is connected to each manifold. Interesting that the left side curves around lower-front of oil pan and joins with short (right-side) dump - prior to exiting thru larger pipe under clutch slave cyl. area. Eventually there will be separate dual pipes right to the back bumper as this primary pipe is very thin. But, it is good to have when running the engine. The pipe was casually extended to just past the t-case and then a well-used bottle muffler connected - but no tailpipe. I re-did this portion to eliminate leaks and then attached one of my spare short turbo mufflers - then more flexible stuff to aim exhaust out of garage - - so as to not gas myself. I had coolant in the system and (as usual) discovered couple of pesky drips - one from left/rear manifold stud and, much to my surprise, one at a core plug (the 1.25" lower-front right side - near fuel pump). I had a line into small gas can and engine was already pre-oiled by hand several times).
    Carb was dirty outside but clean inside so I carefully washed it and manually poured in fuel and shook and dumped it. The needle valve was working as it shut tight when upside-down. Point of note is that this particular (2Bbl.) carb is neither BBD or Holley or Rochester. It is a Weber-Stromberg (WW-series) and in all my four plus decades of experience, I have never encountered one of these - until now..
    About two weeks ago, I figured it was about time to run the engine. I had timed it statically as it was installed - based on curve of distributor. With fuel inside carb, manual choke closed and battery fully charged, I only had to crank two seconds and it started. Then I pushed in choke half-way or so and it ran just fine - no stalling or timing issues. I then brought the speed up to about 2grand and kept it there. No leaks and a steady 75 psi oil pressure. It was also charging well but, within five minutes I noticed the temp gauge not moving. Heat was blowing thru onto floor area so I knew it was warming. Yes, it was the sending unit - I replaced next day. I also waited several days to connect the timing light and it showed 8-degrees static and a quick curve, so I figured about 34 total centrifugal. I never had to loosen distributor at all.
    There were many other issues and procedures occurring while engine was being prepped to go into chassis. I won't discuss them in length as they will take too long to describe but, suffice to say, when all was said and done, everything seemed (so far) to fall into place. I did run it briefly with all four wheels lifted and it appears to shift okay. Soon it will be out of the garaged and doors and tail gate installed. The door glasses were a total 'adventure' to install - seemingly difficult imagine but basically simple - - when done step by step.
    Some of the info I posted may well be on another of my thread topics so if I've repeated - - I apologize. And, to the CDN Allpar members, have a fine T-giving weekend.
    I have photos but most are too large to upload. Eventually I hope to create a PhotoShare album - as I did with the Signet. Check back periodically.
     
    Shane Estabrooks likes this.
  14. Shane Estabrooks

    Shane Estabrooks Active Member

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    Sounds awesome. .. if you use a pc ... open your picture in paint ... adjust the size by 50% and save as a jpeg picture ... should be small enouph to download. . Would love to see pictures.
    I to am working on a long term project. .. 1951 Dodge M37 Canadian version. Just starting to put it back together so it's good to read about your progress.
     
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  15. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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  16. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    When they limit pic. size to 135 Kb. they aren't kidding - not even one Kb. larger. :(.
    Still lots to do. Windows not in as not enough info to attempt. Rear glass had some 'black goo' on outer perimeter - not sure about outer frame (opening). Not sure what this is or if necessary or if there is a substitute.
    Also, hard to find (believe it) longer rear shocks. Local parts sources no help and on-line limited into. Truck is sitting (stock springs) where 'static' shock length must be 24.5" - without heavy stuff in box and no rear bumper. If I add 150 lbs. to rear of box, truck does not even go down 1/4".
    So, I need something that is between 20-ish and 30-ish inches (collapsed and extended). I see listings for Rancho -but no definite info on lengths but I am hoping for Monroe Magnums. Anyone familiar with PRO COMP shocks? I checked one listing for Rancho no. RS5116 that specifies a 2.5 to 4.0" lift and parts guy replied they were only 24.5" extended. Any advice? I haven't a lot of time to search as truck must be moved out soon and RX7 returned (after six months away). thanks
     
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  17. Shane Estabrooks

    Shane Estabrooks Active Member

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    Sweepline.. love the hood.. nice job.. wow must be a labour of love.
    Did you try Blestin,s maybe see if mopar has something. . doubt it. . Napa.. is a good place to check too.
     
  18. Volunteer

    Volunteer Well-Known Member

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    About time I updated. Truck left my garage 3 weeks ago - to larger heated shop. Front and rear windows were put in - with plenty of effort. Still a few things to fine-tune come spring. Now truck is in a covered trailer as the larger space is needed for '68 Charger resto. I did finally get correct rear shocks. After exhausting all my sources and usual suppliers, I came upon www.4wheelparts.com and got hold of my nearest outlet in Langley BC. The staff was very helpful and came up with a pair of Skyjacker Hydro H7000 series that measure between about 17 and 30 inches. They are white with red flex-boots at top and red poly end bushes. Best of all is the price of $54. each (CDN) - plus $20. to ship to my door.
    Buddy drove truck 8 miles from here to there and then again a week later once windows in. He said it felt really good - brakes, clutch and steering all good. I am quite pleased to this point - considering what I had to do to the pressure plate several months ago when I decided to go with what we had. The gas gauge is reading too low but sender is in rough shape so I suggested replacement in spring. Truck still needs full-size floor mat and no idea what the status is on that. There will also be some paint touch-up and misc. undercoating once it is back in the shop.
    It will make first (official) public debut at our March 27 (Vintage Car Club) Easter Parade.
    Thanks for all the support and great advice from all who posted. I may update a few things as time passes but if any questions or comments, please don't hesitate to Message me.
    Now I am on to the ('70) Swinger resto - which could also take a lot of time, but not for same reasons as truck did. I am not sure what Topic page I will use but at this moment I expect it to be the A-body section. There will be some technical issues relating to specific details. I will recap history of the car as best as I can and post a few pics. thanks and have a wonderful Holiday season and stay safe. Hard to believe yet another year has nearly finished.
     
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