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Water by-pass pipe #MD322430 NLA

Discussion in '200, Avenger/Sebring, Cirrus/Stratus/Breeze' started by TJamin, Jan 26, 2013.

  1. cbenoit108

    cbenoit108 New Member

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    http://www.sebringclub.net/pdf/sebring96-00parts.pdf


    But the part I need is Part #18 for the Cooling. It looks like a really funky part, whereas that part looks basically like a Lead Pipe. On Dorman's Website, that part OEM wise corresponds to #17 for the Cooling.--However, what's weird is that google images for MD322430 shows that Lead Pipe. I did go to Chrysler today because iwondered if my diagram was wrong, and he said no, and showed me the diagram in their system which shows that MD422430 part is in fact that the funky looking part and not the lead pipe part.

    My mechanic told me what part was need by the OEM #, and i assume he was using the same thing Chrysler is. Seems to be confusion online though as to what MD422430 really is.
     
  2. ImperialCrown

    Level III Supporter

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    OK so the part that you need is for the 'quick-connect' heater hose connections above the bell-housing and not the large bypass tube that runs between the cylinder banks to the water pump?
    The part (bracket and heater hose adapter) that you need is MD322430.
    The large bypass tube is used by both Mitsubishi and Chrysler in the Mitsubishi V6 engines, but the heater hose adapter may be Chrysler-specific even though it has a Mitsubishi part number.
     
  3. cbenoit108

    cbenoit108 New Member

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    Correct on the Part Number. Ya--it looks like a very customized type of part(as opposed to the tube, which looks like a Lead Pipe)--probably makes it harder to find

    I've got 2 leads right now
    1 is a craigslist ad for a mechanic in my area who is parting out a Sebring that was T Boned--The back looks awful but the front looks untouched(and according to him, it is)
    2. One junkyard says they will pull anything(whereas most wont) so we shall see what they charge in labor to do so.
     
  4. cbenoit108

    cbenoit108 New Member

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    Found a Junkyard that has it--Can someone post a blown up picture of the part, to give me and my buddy some guidance? The diagram I have is okay, but would prefer a full page photo of just that part.

    thanks
     
  5. automan1223

    automan1223 Member

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    Guys, I have had the same problem this past week. Most junkyards DO NOT relish having to pull this part from their bone yard and the ones that will do you a favor will charge top dollar for a corroded to death replacement. I run a professional shop and had to join 2 of the best ends on this pipe assy because there is nothing available. The BIG pipe that connects the cylinder heads, main water pump pipe and all is still available and if you are at the point where the heater bypass pipes are rusted, the bores of that large aluminum crossover are also in sad shape AND WILL NOT SEAL !!... I learned the long way round that you need a new crossover pipe, order all the gaskets, and the big O ring for the water pump pipe. Get friendly with a small rotary wire brush on your dremmel tool or whatever and do the best you can cleaning up the area... The heater hoses with the special double oring ends are still available too (minus the pipes) . Careful putting on new orings on your old salvage pipe as the sharp edges will slice the new orings in short order if you let the oring roll over under tension by the sharp end...I potted the orings in some ultra black silicone and let dry overnight for insurance but after spending a few days getting no where I had to swage and silver braze 2 salvage pipes together, for some reason I could not get one with good ends on both ends of the pipes. Mitsubshi is a no go, Domestic Chrysler is no good, unavailable.

    Second solution and something I might do for the next one is get a large custom sized tap and thread the holes for the bypass pipes and make custom pipe fittings on my lathe and attach to standard rubber heater hoses with a hose clamp !!!

    . The problem is that standard pipe taps are too large to thread the large crossover pipe and from the looks of it the housing might be too thin after threading operations. But unreal, why they over engineered this nonsense is beyond me.

    Anyone gets a lead on this part number let us know. I do not have high confidence dealing with out of the country sources...

    Unfort this is one of those deals where we either improvise or create a new solution.... and yes it takes way too much time to get the job done.

    You will also need egr tube gaskets, or exhaust sheet gasket material to make new ones. FYI...

    Closing, this has to me one of the most difficult vehicles to work on....

    J
     
  6. cbenoit108

    cbenoit108 New Member

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    Ya--I have a friend who is willing to do it for free and he's currently rebuilding a BMW Engine for fun. He's more wondering "where exactly is the part" So we don't pull off unneccessary things? It is my understanding that all of my other parts are fine, and in good shape, and it is this one piece that needs to be replaced. Does anyone have a diagram/picture of the part to assist us--we are going Thursday to the local Junkyard to get one.

    Thanks
     
  7. ImperialCrown

    Level III Supporter

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    I could not find any clear picture of this online, but it is buried down in there on the drivers side of the rear head underneath the distributor.
    Don't try to release the heater hose retainer 'quick-disconnect' squeeze clips, just cut the hoses close to the fitting.
    Don't force the heater hose adapter out, no matter how tempting that becomes.
    Many times the 'quick-disconnect' fitting o-rings will leak if you try to reuse them.
    http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=100098&cc=1361663
     
  8. parsonssc

    parsonssc Member

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    I am also looking for part #MD322430. Anyone know of a solution or where they can be found?

    Thanks
     
  9. Quincy

    Quincy New Member

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    Do you still have it!?
     

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