Hello, Allpar Forums member or visitor! If you were a member, you would not see this ad!

Register or log in at the top right of the page...

  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Worst PT cruiser job ever!!

Discussion in 'PT Cruiser' started by guitarjerry, Nov 30, 2017.

  1. guitarjerry

    guitarjerry Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2010
    Messages:
    62
    Likes:
    7
    PT cruiser with a front main seal leak that was redone and still leaked, so I gave it a try and worked fine for a few min then suddenly oil is pouring everywhere....

    Turns out it has the "walking crank" problem, so..
    I had to pull the engine. I pulled it through the bottom and let me just say if you pull the engine on one of these, pull the whole front suspension, you will save ALOT, alot, a ridiculous amount of work! All you have to do is take out the shock tower bolts, the 3 big bolts holding the engine cradle, take offf the calipers and hang them with wires. Also the clutch cylinder, engine mounts and all the usual stuff. I recommend not disconnecting the compressor, you don't have to. Basically if you don't do it this way you have to take apart EVERYTHING under the hood to get it out, unfortunately, I thought of this method when it was too late for it to be worth doing it this way

    I open it up and yes, it is one of those that chrysler decided they could save a buck or 2 per car by having half a thrust bearing and it had worn into the crank, so....

    I got a reman crank and reused the old reluctor and balance shaft gear, put it together, torque to specs and it turned properly and everything and I put it in.

    NO START. That's right, it doesn't F**king start!! It doesn't F**king START!

    After I spent 6-7 days off with 6-10 hrs each day on it over a period of weeks!! Yes I don't have access to air tools right now

    Any ideas? I have checked and rechecked that everything is plugged in.. I'm going to check spark and fuel tomorrow..

    I'm literally almost ready to do a Walter White on this car and burn it to the ground and then never work on cars again..
     
  2. pt006

    pt006 Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2014
    Messages:
    1,284
    Likes:
    491
    First, congratulations! Not many people around that could accomplish what you did.

    Try disconnecting the neg. battery post and step on the brake pedal a few times. Reconnect the post. Turn ign. key to on. You should hear the fuel pump run for 2 or 3 seconds. Another problem I read of is that the cam sensor connector can be interchanged with another connector. Good luck.
     
  3. ImperialCrown

    Level III Supporter

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2008
    Messages:
    18,231
    Likes:
    2,660
    Check for spark and fuel.
    Even if the rail is pressurized, but the injectors aren't opening, you still won't have fuel. Try a shot of solvent into the throttle body.
    You may be able to hear a compression or timing issue if cranking doesn't sound as it did before. Usually crankshafts come as a kit with new bearings, etc. 2001-2002 were the same. Only use OEM parts.
    I believe that the ignition coil and cam sensor connectors could mistakenly interchange. Any fault codes?
    Check for blown fuses?
     
  4. guitarjerry

    guitarjerry Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2010
    Messages:
    62
    Likes:
    7
    I'll have to look into this, as when I plugged in the cam sensor, the connector barely reached, like there wasn't enough wire

    I checked for spark and nothing
    also checked the timing marks, the cam marks still line up. Really wish this car had a timing mark on the damper..

    I did it without an engine hoist. Just a floor jack, jack stands, and a bunch of 2x4's
     
    #4 guitarjerry, Dec 1, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2017
  5. guitarjerry

    guitarjerry Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2010
    Messages:
    62
    Likes:
    7
    So throughout my time trying to start it, it was cranking slower and slower

    I checked and the cam and ignition connectors were in fact switched

    I tried it and it almost started twice but was just cranking reaallly slow. And then it stopped cranking at all. I tried jumping it with now improvement and the engine turns fine using a ratchet on the crankshaft pulley bolt

    So, looks like I have a bad starter now...?
     
  6. chuzz

    chuzz Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2004
    Messages:
    6,796
    Likes:
    459
    Yeah, you may have burned the starter up, Jerry. But I'd check all of my grounds first.
     
  7. pt006

    pt006 Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2014
    Messages:
    1,284
    Likes:
    491
    Today's computers require a certain minimum voltage to operate. If the starter is dragging the battery voltage down below that level, the computer gets 'confused' and the engine won't start. I'd charge the battery overnight with a small charger or a couple of hours with a bigger charger [40 amp]. PT's have small batteries, but usually sufficient. Some jumper cables may look pretty, but are poor due to small wire size. Like # 10 size.

    Turning the engine over with a ratchet and a long extension from the right inner fender 'plug hole' will unlock the starter bendix if it is jammed. Turn clockwise.

    Hook up a voltmeter to the battery. It should read about 12.5 Volts. Crank the engine, the voltage should not drop below 9.5 volts. Check both large battery cables for corrosion and internal breaks. -------- Check spark wires for correct location.

    good luck
     
  8. guitarjerry

    guitarjerry Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2010
    Messages:
    62
    Likes:
    7
    Ok used starter from yard, spins won't engage. Took it back, second one worked. Starts!
     
  9. chuzz

    chuzz Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2004
    Messages:
    6,796
    Likes:
    459
    Congratulations! You are tenacious like bulldog!
     

Share This Page

Loading...