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    1. · Registered
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      I've swapped a few over from R12 to R134. All the time, on an older car-truck with R12 that had a leak, system was drained. Or barely registering on pressure. Bought an in-expensive vacuum pump from harbor freight. You don't need one often, but when you do. -> http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html

      I also bought one of these to use with it. As the vacuum pump does not have a gauge. -> http://www.harborfreight.com/a-c-manifold-gauge-set-92649.html

      Crap shoot what you have on an empty system. Find, fix a leak. All prior info is great. I default when vacuum drops. I put a can of freon that has the ultra violet leak detector. Jumper the pump to work. Sometimes I need a 2nd can for the system. Get my black light out.

      The one thing I learned. Usually a sticker on the hood or radiator support. Tells you how many ounces the system needs. More is not better on R134.

      Lastly, when you swap over to the new stuff. You leave the newer style fitting on the low and hi side. Most auto parts stores have a retro kit that includes the fittings.

      -> http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...charge-Retrofit-Kit/_/R-BK_7652979_0006532922

      Outside temp depends on pressure you see. And goal you want to get to when charging it up. And yup. need to use the oil that's for the R134
       
    1. · Registered
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      Every one has their own way of doing things. I mostly deal with topping off, system that leaked from a pipes pin hole leak, failed gasket. If a compressors clutch goes bad. You can usually replace it without opening up the system.

      I have a manifold, cheapo vacume pump. -> Air Vacuum Pump with R134A and R12 Connectors

      I also use a single can dispenser. Has a gauge on it that looks like this. -> https://mike-thomson.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/gauge.jpg

      You won't be able to vacume it down without the manifold. And without it. You would not be able to tell if your work to repair found every leak.

      I'll leave the pump on for an hour as it's a cheapo. That way, it evacuates the system of moister. Close the valves to hold the pressure. Make a note of the pressure. Come back in an hour to see if it's still there at the mark. No sence to waste freon if a leak. If it dosen't hold pressure. I will add a can of freon with ultraviolet dye. Then check with a black light.

      If it's my car, I'll add a can of freon with dye. So in the future, it leaks. I can find the prob sooner.

      It holds I take off the pump. Adding full cans thru the manifold. Then using the single can dispenser with the gauge to top it off. I like the single can with the gauge. Trigger, set the temp and go from there. Any left in the can will be used next time I need it.
       
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