[Stratuscaster]

Wife was out driving yesterday and reports that "the wipers, blower, and radio/clock stopped working - then they started up again, and would go on and off intermittently. No CEL, engine continued to run, vehicle continued to drive."

Weather MAY be a factor - temps dropped from low 40's in the morning to 20's in the evening, with a constant rain changing to snow - very high humidity.

I've not have a chance to look at it yet or put my code reader on it. Just figured I'd throw it up here in case anyone has any suggestions.

 

[John Wood]

I'd check for battery post corrosion, battery cable connections, and ground wire corrosion first.

 

[ImperialCrown]

Try playing with the ignition key the next time this happens. Or try replicating the condition by playing with the ignition key. The switch may be getting touchy.

 

[John Wood]

Try playing with the ignition key the next time this happens. Or try replicating the condition by playing with the ignition key. The switch may be getting touchy.

Come to think of it, that does sound like a contact in the ignition switch. I've had the same thing happen on a couple of cars of that era. If you have power windows, that might not be working either. There is one common contact in the ignition switch that closes in the "run" position that sometimes goes bad. Additionally, you could check the wiring going to the ignition switch (after removing the column trim shells) and look for a burnt hot discolored wire insulation at the connector. I had a wire burn clean off at that point and it caused a similar failure.

 

[Stratuscaster]

Cleaned some minor corrosion on the positive terminal. Checked all the relays and fuses. Fired up the van, drive for a bit, radio & blower motor stopped working before I got out of the driveway, then came back on, then off, then on - random pattern. Played with the ignition; no change. Swapped keys in case it was a worn key issue - no change. Thought perhaps it might be related to transaxle shift lever position - but no.

Interesting to note that all the exterior and interior lights remain on when this happens (lights are on as I'm doing this in the dark.) The backlighting on the radio stays on when the radio goes out, and the backlighting and the power light on the HVAC controls remain on as well.

Will need to wait until the weekend and daylight to tackle examining the ignition switch investigation.

 

[ImperialCrown]

It is beginning to sound like a switch or some related ignition circuit connection. The blower uses a fairly large amount of current, so a high-resistance will be making heat.
These switches can be disassembled and inspected, even repaired in some cases. Look for thickened grease obscuring a contact point or tarnished copper or burnt contacts, loss of spring tension, etc.
You may need the 'security' torx bits to service this switch (the ones with the center dimple to aid in anti-theft).

 

[unLIMITED]

Could it be a relay going bad? I don't have a wiring diagram for '02 so I can't tell if relays are used to switch the "hot in run" accessories.

 

[peterjon1]

Could it be a deteriorated connection in the PDC?

 

[ImperialCrown]

Due to its proximity to the battery, I have seen electrical corrosion issues with the underside of the PDC connectors/wiring. The Accessory delay relay is in the PDC and is on whenever the ignition is on. It also provides a timed delay (or until the drivers door opens) to keep some key-on components on briefly. Moving wires around gently this vicinity while listening to the blower on high speed could help diagnosis if you hear it cut out.

 

[chuzz]

Check the connector on your BCM, or does it have anything to do with these functions? I'm so confused.

 

[valiant67]

I'm still betting on the ignition switch.

 

[Stratuscaster]

Thanks for all the input. I'm hoping that the weather stays clear enough tomorrow to try and check some of these items you've all brought up.

I can confirm that the if I turn off the HVAC entirely, the problem still exists.

It's also worth noting that sometimes the wipers also stop when the radio/blower do, and sometimes they do not. And sometimes, even when set to the lowest delay, they will actually speed up when the radio/blower go out.

 

[Stratuscaster]

Appears to be ignition related. Removed the column shroud and found no worn or burnt wires - that I could see, at least. Did notice that I can put the key in about 2/3 of the way and still turn the cylinder and start the van. The radio/blower worked for my entire 5 mile trip to the store. Heading back, I fired up the van and the radio/blower were not working - turn off, monkeyed with key, turned on, and it was good on the trip back.

Another bad note - the van isn't shifting out of 2nd. Checked the fluid and could not see a definitive "level" on the stick - the stick was wet up to the HOT marks, but seems like it may be low. Heading out to get a couple quarts of ATF-4.

 

[Stratuscaster]

Added a quart of ATF-4, did a test drive, still wasn't shifting out of second - running 3000 RPMs at 40MPH. Wife needed to leave - warned her about the shifting, and left her the van already running with my key.

She called back later. She pulled over, shut off the van, restarted it with HER key, and it shifted just fine. :huh:

To note, her key is the factory original chip key and mine is an aftermarket copy chip key. Until today, I never experienced the shifting issue.

 

[ImperialCrown]

A difference between keys shouldn't cause TCM limp-in. A chipped key difference could only cause a no-start.
By playing with the ignition switch could have caused a power interruption the the TCM and put it in limp-in. An on-off key cycle may have reset the TCM although a fault code may still be stored for reference if desired.
You could try to read TCM fault codes in the odometer display during an instrument cluster self-test.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_RQwJLC-syA

 

[Stratuscaster]

Still dealing with this intermittent issue. Wife took the van in today for new tires, an alignment, and an oil change - and of course the issue would not present itself while at the shop.

The self-test described above does not apply to a 2002 model.

 

[ronstafford55]

Hi...I'd check for the correct voltage on the supply wire to your ECM/ECU on these models low voltage to the ECM means low voltage to the sensors causing all kinds of codes on mutible sensors...

Hi...I'd check for the correct voltage on the supply wire to your ECM/ECU on these models low voltage to the ECM means low voltage to the sensors causing all kinds of codes on mutible sensors...

 

[ronstafford55]

Hi...I'd check for the correct voltage on the supply wire to your ECM/ECU on these models low voltage to the ECM means low voltage to the sensors causing all kinds of codes on mutible sensors...

also look up your year/model van electrical problems on yahoo and they will give you the repair information if you don't find it there go to 2004 town and country they have the same problem as you describe and they found it in the wire connections......