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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It appears the blend door is not moving, stuck full cold. I understand there is a procedure to reset/re-calibrate the control unit, manual hvac.

I suspect I may need to replace the blend door actuator (happy-happy joy-joy) but would like to try the reset first.

What is the procedure?

Thanks in advance
 

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If you get a new actuator, do NOT buy Dorman. Buy a Mopar one. My wife's car had a bad recirc actuator, and I replaced it with a Dorman one for about $23. It crapped out in about 3 months. Replaced it with a Mopar one for about $40, and it's been 3 years with no issues.
 

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Just went through the FSM and there's no mention of a recalibration procedure for manual HVAC controls. That's a bit odd, I guess, as my minivan has a procedure.

Is the actuator clicking? That's what happened to my 2008. Couldn't stand it.

Bob L. is 100% correct on the parts. While I normally don't mind many Dorman parts, their actuators are very questionable. Spend a few bucks extra and get Mopar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I found the re-calibration procedure after 5-6 searches with different word combinations.

Ignition is turned to on, blower off
Depress / hold defrost button, turn the blower to high
Defrost lamp starts blinking

The re-calibration begins and takes a couple of minutes - defrost lamp blinks during the entire process and shuts off after the re-calibration is complete and successful. The process cycles through all of the modes from floor to windshield, cycles the heat and cycles the recirculation door.

Happy/relieved to say, the re-calibration was successful and again have heat.

Totally agree with the Mopar part. Replaced an actuator on my 200 and had to redo 4 months later. Was not a dorman but also not a mopar.

Thanks for the quick responses and advice
 

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Oh lucky the re calibration worked! I had an 08 Magum and it is a "feature" of that generation of the LX cars that the blend door gets broken by the actuator motor. I had this happen TWICE to my Magnum. The blend door is shaped like 1/4 of a sphere. There is a stalk on one side that connects to the actuator motor and the door rotates on that axis between open and closed. The problem starts when the actuator motor doesn't stop turning when it reaches the limit of the door movement. So it literally twists the arm off the door so now no amount of recalibration will fix it.

So I went through sourcing a new blend door, pulled apart the whole thing (it's behind the glove box) and installed it. I should have replaced the actuator motor at the same time but didn't. Bad move. The motor promptly ripped the arm off the replacement blend door within a month.

The final "fix" for me was to manually push the blend door into the outside air position and then I put a screw through it to prevent it from moving. And then I disconnected the power to the actuator motor and left it locked open.

Every time I see a Charger, 300, or Magnum driving around with the windows completely fogged up I know they've probably had the same thing happen.
 

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Agree with the comments to stay away from aftermarket actuator motors. Been there, done that on my '06. For many parts, aftermarket works just fine, but on my these cars, NEVER buy any aftermarket electronic sensors or motors. Things like crank/cam sensors and actuator motors will usually last from minutes to maybe a year and a half, and if it's something like a crank position sensor, you'll be doing (or a shop) that PITA job all over again, PLUS spending $$. I had same results with the Dorman actuator motors. Mine had the auto-temp HVAC system, so a total of 4 motors! Wound up doing a couple over again - passenger side temp door and recirculate door motor. Both behind/near glove box area, but my arms were all cut up and chaffed after reaching way back there in a tight and awkward position, and no longer a young man. Can only imagine what dealer labor is. Driver's side is an even bigger PITA if you have to tackle one or both there.

Was almost tempted to rig up a Rube Goldberg set-up using an old sawed open actuator motor with gutted electronics and a manual choke cable attached under dash to operate doors😂
 

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Two items, first I had to replace all the doors in a 2005 Ram 2500, almost every one had the shaft snapped off by the actuators. Chrysler has used this same design since the 90s on the K derived cars (I have a 1992 Imperial EATC system in my 1986 LeBaron convertible). Other than the blend and mode actuators there is no feedback of any kind and mode only has a 1/2 way (floor position) feedback. Face and defrost, recirc and fresh are all end of travel and apparently the current rise from the stalled actuator tells the control head to shut off the power to the actuator.

Circuit on mine has a common and then one additional wire to each actuator motor so only one at a time can be run. Getting to them varies, fresh/recirc is behind the glove box, blend is virtually impossible without removing the HVAC case due to the K27 body reinforcement up the center, mode cane be done from under the dash if you don't mind being upside down.
 
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