[David Cleveland]

My 2010 Town and Country has four (4) power outlets, two (2) on the lower center dash, one (1) in the center console and one (1) behind the rear passenger on the driver side. Two of them have quite working. The top (ACC) outlet in the dash and one in the center console (BATT). The bottom one in the dash (BATT) has 12v when checked with a meter and so does the one behind the passenger (ACC). The two non-working outlets, predictably, have 0 volts. I have checked the fuses (5, 6, 7 and 36) and all of them appear to be fine.

Has anyone had this issue and know the fix for it, or does anyone have any suggestions on how to proceed to track down the problem?

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Are you sure that the non-working ones are not wired through the ignition? Typically cars have some that are always live and some that are only powered with ignition on.

 

[David Cleveland]

Are you sure that the non-working ones are not wired through the ignition? Typically cars have some that are always live and some that are only powered with ignition on.

Yes, checked with ignition on and off. The covers that plug the power outlets are also marked either battery or ACC as well. No luck either way.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Sometimes the wiring comes unplugged, sometimes the socket itself fails. I had a failed socket in my car, replaced it and all was well.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

How did you check fuses? Visual check is not good enough. Power on both sides?

 

[AllanC]

. . . My 2010 Town and Country has four (4) power outlets, two (2) on the lower center dash, one (1) in the center console and one (1) behind the rear passenger on the driver side. Two of them have quite working. The top (ACC) outlet in the dash and one in the center console (BATT). . . .

The top outlet in the dash is switched controlled through the ignition switch and TIPM relay K1 and fuse M06. The outlet in the center console is connected to full time battery power through fuse M36.

. . . The bottom one in the dash (BATT) has 12v when checked with a meter and so does the one behind the passenger (ACC). . . .

Since the bottom power outlet center dash (unswitched) has 12v power you know fuse M36 is good along with the wiring to that socket. The power outlet behind the left rear passenger area has 12 volt power so you know that fuse M07 is good along with the wiring to its socket and the load circuit through TIPM relay K1 (switched controlled).

. . . . The two non-working outlets, predictably, have 0 volts. I have checked the fuses (5, 6, 7 and 36) and all of them appear to be fine.
. . . .

Remove the fuse M06 and use a volt-ohm meter to check for continuity. Visual inspection can be deceiving. If the fuse indicates continuity the problem lies with the wiring between the TIPM to the top (ACC) outlet in the dash. Also check the wiring between the TIPM to the embedded outlet in the center console and the socket itself.

As a sideline but important to tracing circuit power, does the right front power window operate properly with ignition switch in RUN position?

 

[ImperialCrown]

If the TIPM has placed the circuit into 'protection' because of a detected short in the power outlets, then there may be stored fault codes. If the short is not detected or no longer present, toggle the circuit back on and see how it does.

 

[AllanC]

. . . If the TIPM has placed the circuit into 'protection' because of a detected short in the power outlets, then there may be stored fault codes. . . . . .

I C makes a valid point with this comment. The TIPM (totally integrated power module) has logic built into it such that if it detects excessive electrical current draw on any circuit it monitors / controls, it will disable that circuit until corrected and then reset. However in this particular instance that is NOT the cause of the failed / no power at certain outlets. Review the attached images.



This first image show the battery, TIPM and the K1 relay. The TIPM is able to control and energize the K1 relay upon a proper signal. The K1 relay energizes, the load circuit closes and electrical power is supplied to fuses M07 and M06. The O P has indicated that there is power at the outlet behind the left rear passenger area. So that identifies that the TIPM, K1 relay and fuse M07 are totally functional. But there is no power on the DK / PK wire that exits fuse M06 and connects to the top power outlet in the instrument panel. So the problem lies with fuse M06 and / or the wiring (including ground) to the top power outlet.



The second image shows the battery, TIPM and direct path to fuse M36. The O P has indicated that there is power at the bottom power outlet in the instrument panel so that means that the fuse M36 and RD / LG wire are functional. The problem lies with the splice in the wiring from RD / LG through splice S314 (including ground wire) to the center console electrical outlet.