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Welcome to the forum. Always nice to see someone doing a good project, these trucks are getting harder and harder to find. Mopar made several different alternators over the years, single field, double field, and no field single wire. Given you are now running the "painless" system, one of two things can fix this part of the solution. Look at the wiring setup on the type of alternator you have, make sure the wires go where they are supposed to to make her charge. I will mention this for the two or double field wire alternators because I ran into this problem several years ago, in that it wires like a normal sigle field wire, but the second field wire goes to the positive side of the coil (in the leanburn system it powers all the different sensors in the intake manifold and then to the positive side of the coil, alleviate everything and go direct to the positive side of the coil and she changes, otherwise she won't). As far as the push button on the floor selonoid to the starter, unless you use that starter and button (it is six volt and is an old style to start with, probably not used at all except for looks), wire in your GM switch and be done with it, save a whole lot of hassle.

Good luck and keep us informed, hope this helped.
 

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It almost sounds like the ballast resistor is bad, same symptom. Unless you are running points, you should have the electronic ignition control box, which gets rid of the voltage regulator itself.
 

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Don't keep a wire across the ballast resistor (I think that is what you are referencing), because yes, it will run as you said, but it will burn up the electronic ignition system, it is supposed to have 9.6 volts max, jumping it makes it 12-13.4 volts, which will burn it out quickly, so, as you noted, it is a test that proves the ballast resistor is not good, the other is running with the key on because it does bypass it temporarily.
 
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