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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just a couple questions. After we had put the timing chain back on we had some issues getting it running good, but running to say the least. We took the car to a transmission guy and had it rebuilt with a shift kit put in. We removed the stock intake and carb and replace with an Edelbrock performer intake with a 600cfm electronic choke Edelbrock carb.

I have a question about timing on this car. The motor is out of a 71 model, stamping shows its a 71 model 318. But what I dont understand is the stock timing tab that is apart of the timing cover. It only goes to +10* to -10*.

I have done some research and see where guys have there cars timed at 8* BTDC and some beyond 10* BTDC.
How do you figure the timing beyond 10*??
Are they using a special timing light??

The reason I ask the questions above is b/c when you give it a quick jab of the throttle it back fires through the carb. I have it set on TDC of the compression stroke. IS THIS CORRECT???
Is the timing still set RETARD??

And what should be the vacume advance timing be so when I set the initial timing its not knocking when under heavy pedal??
How do I check to see if the points are still good??
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was told to set the rpms this way.

Take the hose off @ the carb for the vacuum advance. Take a light weight piece of paper and adjust rpms until the price of paper falls off the vacuum port. This is where you should start. Then adjust timing (initial) to where the motor acts best. Then put hose back on carb.


Sound about rite?? Its all stock except for the intake / carb set up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Now tht you say it, may dad ordered the intake, he got one for a 340 or a 360. We were told to get one for the size of motor. Though the only difference between them was internals... very well could be a problem.. Might spray some brake clean around intake to see if we have any sealing issues.

I will look down in the dist. to see if any of the springs are broke or weak. And will check the points to make sure they are solid..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well. some more info here. After checking everything, my brother went and bought the electronic ignition kit it. I will be checking everything tonight. If the battery is still charged up.

If it will fire up I will check total timing with vacum canister plugged and set it at 34* At 3k rpm. I will then let it idle at around 800-900 rpms and see where it is. I will then set the initial timing to 12-14* and re-check total timing at 3k rpms. To see what the actual mechanical advance is.

With just a carb and intake im guessing I want it to be a slow curve rather than a snappy curve to total timing.

Does this all sound correct?

When I set the total timing first, and let it come back down to idle, If it idles high do I reset the idle screw first or do I go ahead and change initial timing?



Forgot to add that this is a 65 Plymouth Sport Fury but with a 71 318 motor...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You know I was just reading another timing thread on a guys 383 that dana helped him with and Im thinking back when the timing set was put on and I did notice the dots were not lined up. I put everything back the way it was b/c it ran like that for years so I assumed it was correct.

Now its got me thinking like you are saying TWX, with the cam out of time to the crank Im in fact needing to give it more advance to make up the difference. Look like I will be taking the everything off to double check.

When I go to reset the timing set. Should i set it to have the timing marks line up at crank dot at 12 o'clock and cam dot at 6 o'clock?

Or make sure the crank is a tdc and the cam is set with both intake and ex valve closed, but make the cam set after the intake valve has just closed.


Sorry to sound stupid, but Im used to working on two stroke atv's and not car motors.


And this is the ignition that was put in the car.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66991/

Thanks for your help guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Dont want to sound like Im questioning you. But why is the motor able to fire with #1 cyl at tdc with timing marks lined up and you have the rotor fire at #6 cyl?

Can you explain that a little more or maybe shoot me in the direction of where you have already?


You think at this time would be a good time for a cam swap? Like the comp cams XE262H cam and lifter package. This is not going to be a strret/strip car, Just an every now and again driver. A tinker car if you will.
 
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