Ok guys seeing if anyone can help me with this. My car has power to the engine, battery is fully charged, power passes thru bulkhead and have power on both sides of bulkhead....... nothing works on the inside no lights no stereo no ignition I turn the key and nothing happens. When it started I turned the key it clicked once and that was it........ I first thought it was the bulkhead connection but I bypassed it and still nothing not even the headlights turn on.....any thoughts would be nice.
1968 barracuda power issues......
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33,710 Posts
Burned fusible link underhood.
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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24,488 Posts
Any ammeter gauge needle deflection? Any test light action at the underdash fuse block?
An A-body wiring diagram may help you trace it out. This is electrically similar to the Dart and Valiant.
An A-body wiring diagram may help you trace it out. This is electrically similar to the Dart and Valiant.
I thought of that but has power past the fusible link......could the ignition switch cause this?
Just tested power to ignition switch and has power to it......im thinking of replacing the switch itself.
Oh yeah the ammeter is out of the equation as it is bypassed
Just tested power to ignition switch and has power to it......im thinking of replacing the switch itself.
Oh yeah the ammeter is out of the equation as it is bypassed
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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24,488 Posts
Headlights and courtesy lights wouldn't go through the ign. switch, but there may be a BATT (+) junction where the power is distributed from that could be the problem. It may be behind the ammeter gauge?
A digital voltmeter may still show 12 volts through a 1000 ohms of resistance (i.e.- loose, corroded, dirty, etc.), but that 1000 ohms resistance wouldn't allow the current through needed to light even a small bulb.
It is best to use an incandescent test light for these tests to actually 'load' the circuit under test.
A digital voltmeter may still show 12 volts through a 1000 ohms of resistance (i.e.- loose, corroded, dirty, etc.), but that 1000 ohms resistance wouldn't allow the current through needed to light even a small bulb.
It is best to use an incandescent test light for these tests to actually 'load' the circuit under test.
Looks like I might pull the the instrument panel and see what I got going on in there. The crazy thing is it was running perfect the day before.... got in it today and one click and im dead in the water. Im really going to clean my bulkhead connections although when I upgraded my charging system I bypassed the ammeter and the bulkhead by making it a solid connection.....well that said im done for the weekend let the fun begin the next one..... i'll keep you posted thanks for the help.
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20,361 Posts
Agree with Cudapete, check the battery connections. Many times there is juice that shows up and when you turn the key, it dies. Doesn't sound like a dash cluster problem unless the connection to the amp gauge is causing it, but then again, any problem with it would give you no power, or melt every wire in the car, no in between like you have. Cleaning the bulkhead connectors is always a good idea if they are original.
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