[Jake lagrange]

So I recently got my hands on 69 4 door Dart custom with the 273 in it. The previous owner had installed a new wiring harness from classic car wiring, the issues I can't seem to figure out are that the oil light will not go off. It will not flicker it will
Just burn bright as day at all times. I've checked the oil levels are good, I see no leaks from under the car. The 2nd issue is the gas gauge. It always reads E, I originally thought it was a wire issue however o believe it's the fuel sender. When I start the car the gauge does move maybe an 1/8th inch to be just above the E. and than never moves from there. My temp gauge is working as is my Alternator charge gauge. All wiring seems in good shape but the guy I bought it from claimed the cluster hadn't been hooked up Fully which I no longer believe any help
Is greatly appreciated.

 

[CudaPete]

Perhaps the oil switch is bad. Have you checked it?

 

[pt006]

Or the wire going to the oil sending is chaffed thru and grounding out.

 

[AllanC]

Here is a link to Mopar wiring diagrams. Scroll to the 1969 model year and then find schematic A and schematic B for your Dart.

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Mopar Wiring Diagrams 1966 to 1971 (at http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=27 )

One potential problem MIGHT BE if the replacement wiring harness followed the same color convention on the wiring as the original manufacturer. Hopefully the vendor did and that makes wire tracing immensely easier.

. . . . So I recently got my hands on 69 4 door Dart custom with the 273 in it. The previous owner had installed a new wiring harness from classic car wiring, the issues I can't seem to figure out are that the oil light will not go off. It will not flicker it will Just burn bright as day at all times. I've checked the oil levels are good, I see no leaks from under the car. . . . .

The instrument panel RED oil pressure lamp is electrically grounded through the oil pressure switch. Locate the oil pressure switch for the tell-tale lamp. Since the 273 V8 was the LA design engine block, the switch should be in the area of the distributor. Turn the ignition to the RUN position but no need to start the engine. Remove the gray wire at the oil pressure switch. The lamp should turn off. If it does turn off then the problem is a defective oil pressure switch. If the oil pressure lamp remains on, then there is a ground in the wiring. You will have to trace it back through the firewall and onto the instrument cluster and look for chafed / pinched area which are causing a ground connection.

. . . .The 2nd issue is the gas gauge. It always reads E, I originally thought it was a wire issue however o believe it's the fuel sender. When I start the car the gauge does move maybe an 1/8th inch to be just above the E. and than never moves from there. . . . . .

Go to the fuel tank area underneath the rear of the car. Locate the fuel sending level unit and remove the dark blue wire at the sender. Turn the ignition to the RUN position but no need to start the engine. Touch the dark blue wire to a good, clean chassis ground on the vehicle. It is important to have a good, clean ground. Be careful about making any spark around a fuel tank. With the wire grounded the fuel gauge needle should go to F (full posiiton) or beyond. If it does then you have eliminated the fuel gauge and wiring to the tank as the problem. The issue is with the fuel level sending unit in the tank. If after grounding the wire the fuel gauge needle does not move to F then the problem is with the instrument panel fuel gauge.

Specifications for checking resistance of the fuel level sending unit. At EMPTY position with the float at tank bottom, there should be about 73 ohms resistance through the sending unit. At the FULL position with the float at tank top, there should be about 10 ohms resistance.

 

[68RT]

If you unplug the wire from the oil pressure switch, the light should go out. If not, you have a grounded connection/wire. If it goes out, the switch is faulty.

 

[pt006]

Some tanks had a ground wire that clipped onto the sending unit nipple. Some did not. As rust grows, it acts as an insulator. So, be sure the sending unit itself is grounded.

 

[Jake lagrange]

So first off thank
You everybody for the great advice and help. I have narrowed it down to
My fuel sending unit. I'm gonna be pulling that out once I find a hose or burn more gas. Still
Working on the oil
Light I'm
In the process of peeling the plastic
Tubing off so I can trace the wire. Thanks again guys really appreciate it