[nickodrummer]

Hi everybody,

I have a problem whith my Dodge Monaco 1969 318ci,

I can start the engine but when I release the key it stops ...

I test the ignition switch, the connection looks good !

The engine is running when the contact is BAT+IGN2 but when I release the key the new contact is BAT+IGN1+ACC and it stops !

I try with a new ballast resistor, no change ...

Can you help me ?

 

[KOG]

Switch is bad or wire from ign 1 to resistor is bad somewhere.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Or the new ballast resistor is bad.

 

[nickodrummer]

Ok, I will try to connect with a new wire

Can I bypass the ballast resistor ?

 

[ImperialCrown]

Welcome to Allpar. A service manual with wiring diagrams will help here. Definitely check the ign switch and associated wiring out to the engine compartment first.
The bulkhead connector terminals at the firewall were also a trouble spot for corrosion and burnt plastic connectors. They may be stuck (melted) together if you try to pull them apart.
The corrosion or poor contact probably starts first and the resulting heat from the bad connection will melt them.

 

[KOG]

You can bypass the ballast resistor and run it for maybe 1 minute. Don't run it longer or you could overheat the coil or the ignition module.

 

[ImperialCrown]

Unless someone has added electronic ignition, this would be a stock points/condenser set-up.
Diagnostics would be a little different and you can see a general diagram here: http://www.allpar.com/fix/electronic-ignition.html

 

[nickodrummer]

It's the original ignition ( not electronic)

I found this Wiring diagram

 

[ImperialCrown]

If you don't have power to the ballast resistor in the 'run' (Ign 1) position, there is a break between the switch (Ign 1) circuit and the ballast resistor or the switch (Ign 1 portion) itself is defective.
When the engine is running in the 'start' (Ign 2) position, you are bypassing the ballast resistor and feeding the coil 12 volts. It can take that OK for awhile, but you will burn up the points in the distributor sooner.
The wiring diagram would give you wire colors to go by for tracing down the problem.

 

[KOG]

Sorry, I missed the model year, haven't thought about points ignition for so long I've forgotten it exists.

 

[nickodrummer]

I have the complete wiring diagram whith color

I test the switch and I have good connection between BAT and IGN1 !
I'll check the connection between the switch and the ballast resistor

Thank you for your advice !

 

[Bob Lincoln]

And measure the resistance of the ballast resistor and post back.

 

[ImperialCrown]

I miss the days when a vehicle's complete electrical system could fit on 2 pages, now it takes a book.
Follow your Dk. Blue-TR (TR stands for trace, a colored stripe on the wire) from the switch to terminal #12 on the firewall connector. It should have power with the key on 'run' (Ign 1).
On the engine compartment side, you should still have power at terminal #12 out to the alternator voltage regulator, where the Dk Blue-TR wire then goes to the ballast resistor.
When testing for voltage, a digital test meter may still show 12 volts through a bad connection as it takes very little current to get a voltage reading on these. This can be misleading as a bad (high resistance) connection may not let enough current through to support the load.
An incandescent test light is a better choice as it will require the connection to do some 'work' and pass enough current to light the light. The firewall bulkhead connectors were a weak spot.

 

[nickodrummer]

Thank you !

I just found where the problem is !

I have a lot of corosion at terminal #12 located on the firewall bulkhead ant the plastic is melted !

Thank for your help !