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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been very disappointed in the quality of the paint job I received when I color changed from Plum Crazy to Ivory Tri-Coat Pearl. So, I'm sucking it up and stripping it down for paint again. The paint shop won't be ready to take it in until mid-February, but since it really doesn't get used much this time of year, might as well get started on tear down. No sense paying someone to do simple disassembly.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I took advantage of one of Year One's 30% off specials and bought new engine and forward light harnesses. I may convert it to HEI using my MP distributor and a bracket from Mopar HEI Conversion (at http://www.designed2drive.com/ )
I currently have a Firecore RTR distributor, but am considering switching to HEI so that I could buy an ignition module at any auto parts store should I need to.
I should warm up enough this week to get back out into the garage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It finally warmed up enough to get back out in the garage. Today, I pulled and disassembled the front valance. The air is warmer, but the garage slab is still frigid. So, the valance will be enough for today.
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I switched an old set of Jeep wheels/tires onto the rear. Unfortunately, the Jeep wheels didn't fit on the front. I'll probably take a Dremel to the inside of the wheel center bore and see if I can make them fit..
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It took a light touch with the Dremel inside the wheels' center bores, removal of the center caps, and a stack of washers to keep them from binding on the tie rod ends, but I got the Jeep wheels on the front of the Charger. Now, I don't care about overspray on the rolling stock.
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I took advantage of one of Year One's 30% off specials and bought new engine and forward light harnesses. I may convert it to HEI using my MP distributor and a bracket from Mopar HEI Conversion (at http://www.designed2drive.com/ )
I currently have a Firecore RTR distributor, but am considering switching to HEI so that I could buy an ignition module at any auto parts store should I need to.
I should warm up enough this week to get back out into the garage.
Lots of options here - - - just promise me (and I'm sure a few others) that you will not ever consider getting one of those (Goddawful looking) ORANGE (M.P.) modules. Even (G.M.) HEI is better because it's more 'discrete' and, (arguably) more reliable.
As far as the color of the car - was it originally Plum Crazy or ? Note that the only year for a brighter white was indeed 1971 - (brite white- GY3) but, when pearlized, it does the opposite of enhancing the magnificent 'glow'.
Point I make is that (in most cases), with a car this 'special', it is generally better (more profitable) to maintain original body color - but of course this is your car - to do with what you wish. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I started with a GY9 SE, 383-2V car. It was never going to be a very valuable car. It's the perfect car to turn into the Charger I want, even if it's a combination of parts and trim levels Dodge never built.

I have a Mopar Peformance electronic ignition system on the shelf, orange box and all. That's the distributor I'm thinking of converting to HEI.
 

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Lots of options here - - - just promise me (and I'm sure a few others) that you will not ever consider getting one of those (Goddawful looking) ORANGE (M.P.) modules. Even (G.M.) HEI is better because it's more 'discrete' and, (arguably) more reliable.
As far as the color of the car - was it originally Plum Crazy or ? Note that the only year for a brighter white was indeed 1971 - (brite white- GY3) but, when pearlized, it does the opposite of enhancing the magnificent 'glow'.
Point I make is that (in most cases), with a car this 'special', it is generally better (more profitable) to maintain original body color - but of course this is your car - to do with what you wish. :)

I disagree,anything GM is just wrong.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I removed the door and trunk weather stripping and have about run out of things I can strip off before it goes to the shop.

The stainless at the bottom of the windshield was deeply scratched. I sanded it with 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1600, then polished it with a rag and Flitz. I only went to 1600 as I didn't have anything finer on hand. It'll be mostly hidden at the back of hood, so 1600 will be good enough and it looks lots better than it did.
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