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1971 Fury 360 CID Rear Main Seal

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I just purchased this car ( looks to be a 27K mile original car) and the previous owner said he tried to replace the rear main seal but could not get it to fit properly. He trimmed the seal and the leak persisted. He told me the right way to fix it is to pull the engine because of a K-Member being in the way. He also mentioned that it might be a good opportunity to replace the freeze out plugs. Any tips of hints on a) fixing the seal without pulling the motor and B) tips hints on removing the motor (disconnect from tranny versus taking out both as a unit)? Thanks, Jim
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The way to do it in the car is to get a wick type seal and use a tool that NAPA used to carry called a "sneaky pete" which is designed to change the rear seal without removing the crank. Now, to get to the engine without pulling it or the K member is to remove the two front-to-rear motor mount bolts, place a 2X board under the oil pan, (might have to start with this to get the bolts out), remove the distributor cap so it doesn't hit the firewall, jack the engine up enough to get a 2X4 piece between the motor mount and the frame bracket. From there, you may need to pull the bolt that holds the idler arm to the K member, then you can twist the front wheels around a bit to get the drag link to move out of the way. I have done it this way a couple times and it does work. There are two brackets that run from the transmission to the bottom sides of the block that need to come off and the starter needs to be pulled so you can get those bolts in the pan. When you pull the pan off, the oil pump needs unbolted before the rear main cap is pulled, you will see a small hex rod sticking down, that is the intermediate shaft end for the distributor, which will not move since it is still engaged with the camshaft. Suggest getting it jacked up and blocks between the motor mounts, pulling the parts and pan bolts, see if the pan can be wiggled out, and if it won't, see how much extra needs to be shimmed more than the 2X4.
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