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2012 Ram 1500, 2000 Jeep XJ, 2014 Dodge Grand Caravan
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am becoming confused.

I have '79 Dodge w200 with no spark...
Spark plugs are good, and so are the wires.
New Distributor, it's good.
Ignition Coil is good.
Voltage Regulator, Ballast Resister, Ignition Control Module, all new and good.
I also replaced the starter relay switch thing.
Still no spark...

I'm about to hire a guy to do it for me because I'm getting tired of no spark. Is there anything else that I need to look out for?
 

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60's thru at least mid 80's were notorious for this, I had over a dozen D & W trucks over those years, also my uncle was the dealer, so maybe I can help. First thing is grounds, ma mopa r was notorious for bad grounding, we eventually used those woven ground straps from the firewall to engine block, engine block to frame, in a couple chemo drag cars we even grounded grounded the body to frame in various places useing welding cables. I've even had a couple of my trucks lose the ground from the battery to the block, so check eveything. Where the ballast resistor and ignition module mount to firewall, make sure to rough up the firewall where they mount, we also used serrated washers between firewall and units. Then both aftermarket ignition modules and resistor blocks frequently come from parts stores defective. We ended up using either Mopar units (expensive) or NAPA "echlin" units. I had both ignition units and resistors in each trucks tool box of glove compartment. 40-50 miles from nearest town on single lane forest or pioneer roads at night are not my idea of a fun time. Hope this gives you some starting pointers. Also one other thing, Chrysler uses amp meters instead of volt meters and your main power goes thru them before anything else, sometimes the bulkhead between the firewall and the interior gets corroded, hot and melts, or otherwise makes a bad connection and rarely the amp guage goes bad or connections become loose or corroded. have had it happen on 2 of my trucks. Good luck. Those trucks are real workhorses, they may rust away but the frames, suspensions, engines etc. will go forever.
 

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Also, start checking the wires one by one, starting with the ones to the coil itself, then the ballast resistor, power through the voltage gauge, starter switch itself. Need to verify there is electricity going to things when the key is turned on to start with.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
60's thru at least mid 80's were notorious for this, I had over a dozen D & W trucks over those years, also my uncle was the dealer, so maybe I can help. First thing is grounds, ma mopa r was notorious for bad grounding, we eventually used those woven ground straps from the firewall to engine block, engine block to frame, in a couple chemo drag cars we even grounded grounded the body to frame in various places useing welding cables. I've even had a couple of my trucks lose the ground from the battery to the block, so check eveything. Where the ballast resistor and ignition module mount to firewall, make sure to rough up the firewall where they mount, we also used serrated washers between firewall and units. Then both aftermarket ignition modules and resistor blocks frequently come from parts stores defective. We ended up using either Mopar units (expensive) or NAPA "echlin" units. I had both ignition units and resistors in each trucks tool box of glove compartment. 40-50 miles from nearest town on single lane forest or pioneer roads at night are not my idea of a fun time. Hope this gives you some starting pointers. Also one other thing, Chrysler uses amp meters instead of volt meters and your main power goes thru them before anything else, sometimes the bulkhead between the firewall and the interior gets corroded, hot and melts, or otherwise makes a bad connection and rarely the amp guage goes bad or connections become loose or corroded. have had it happen on 2 of my trucks. Good luck. Those trucks are real workhorses, they may rust away but the frames, suspensions, engines etc. will go forever.
I will be checking everything as well. I forgot that Chrysler used amp meters instead of volt meters. Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also, start checking the wires one by one, starting with the ones to the coil itself, then the ballast resistor, power through the voltage gauge, starter switch itself. Need to verify there is electricity going to things when the key is turned on to start with.
That's a lot of work in 90 degree weather, but it's gotta be done.

Also, I see you're Navy? Thanks for your service!
 

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If you have a new distributor, you should have set the reluctor gap with a brass (non-magnetic) feeler gauge. I believe the gap is 0.008 inches. If that gap is not set properly, you will get no spark (gap too wide), or if too close, you can shear off the magnetic pickup or a reluctor tooth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'll check that out as well.
 

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