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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all heres the dealio...I bought this daytona 2mos ago it had sat for 5 yrs or so in a field by my house. The car has 54000 original miles ,got it from original owner,brought it home and it was getting no fuel,I dropped the fuel tank and replaced the pump and filters ,lines and put fresh fuel back in it ...it started right up on the second try and has been running fine ....flash forward I parked it for 1 month until I could do some more work to it,now it will start but lopes and wont come up to idle and dies ?????? The code key dance comes up 12 and 55 no trouble there when i spray throttle body cleaner in it it will run and sounds fine no misses or anything ,this one has the multi-point setup for the 2.2 liter Turbo motor ,where do I need to start lookin into for the cause ...fuel injectors ??? sensors ???? Its got fresh plugs ,coil wires etc. The electronic stuff is where I am lost the vacuum hoses all seem to be connected ????? I am losing hope on it ,any advise would be appreciated ,the car is in good shape and I need a gas mileage car ,however I am thinkin of the worse scenario ,if i cant use it I will sell it ,text[at]3606088518
 

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If spraying carb cleaner in it makes it run OK, it's a fuel issue. Since you have a new pump, it could be a bad fuel pressure regulator, clogged injectors, or bad fuel. Have you run 1-2 full tanks of fuel through it? If not, add a can of drygas and top off the tank with new gasoline. If it still won't stay running, put a can of Chevron fuel injector cleaner in the tank and try to run the whole tank by driving around.
 

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Don't give up on this car. I have two. One that is my daily driver and needs a tune up. :) The other is my Turbo Z. I am getting 35mpg on long trips and more power than necessary. It's a great ride. Check out the links in my signature for photos and the history of the rebuild.

You will find the answers to your questions on this forum, so use us and we'll help you get it back on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No Bob i havent run it but maybe 5 miles as the brakes and tires are sketchy just around the neighborhood,the fuel regulator is where i think i will start ,dang they are spendy tho
 

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No Bob i havent run it but maybe 5 miles as the brakes and tires are sketchy just around the neighborhood,the fuel regulator is where i think i will start ,dang they are spendy tho

How would the injectors be cleaned can they be removed and cleaned
 

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The fuel rail comes off and the injectors 'unplug' from their sockets. These sockets are nothing more than round holes. The injectors first unplug from the harness which BTW, could also contribute to the issue you're having. In any case if you want to replace injectors remove the harness with the rail so you can more carefully remove the electrical from each injector. Then remove the injectors from the rail (or manifold if they stayed behind when the rail is removed). Reverse the process to install them but use new o-rings. Grease the o-rings to make them slip into the manifold and the rail more easily.

But, before you jump into an injector issue be sure you have good pressure at the rail. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and crank the engine. If you get around 50psi fuel pressure at the rail and still no engine start then .... but I still doubt that all the injectors are messed up at the same time unless there was so much junk in the fuel filter that it passed debris to the injectors after passing through the regulator. I'm not a fan of the injectors being the problem.

It could be computer, fuel pressure or something else causing a no run condition. But all four injectors? I'm not a fan of that being the problem.
 

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My vote is still for sour gas, then. Drygas, more running time with a full tank of fresh gas (even if you idle it), and then the Chevron cleaner if still needed. I'd do that before working on the injectors. If they are gummed, they can probably get clear with running these detergents through them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Good tips the fuel in the tank is all new as well as the filter inline at the rear the guy at the parts store thinks this is the order of attack pressure check first on the fuel...he says 90 110 psi for 1986 turbo z filter change if lower...if lower fuel pressure regulator change also ,check pressure again thats tomorrows plan what do you think
 

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Fuel Pressure should be from 53-55psi at the fuel rail for all Turbo motors 84-93.
 

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Good tips the fuel in the tank is all new as well as the filter inline at the rear the guy at the parts store thinks this is the order of attack pressure check first on the fuel...he says 90 110 psi for 1986 turbo z filter change if lower...if lower fuel pressure regulator change also ,check pressure again thats tomorrows plan what do you think
Fuel pressure should be around 55psi if everything is working properly. If you look at the photos of my engine in my '86 you'll notice a few differences. First the intake but you'll also see the fuel pressure gauge I mounted on the firewall. When the car is running at idle the pressure is around 50psi. When I increase throttle the pressure drops. So, your static pressure should be in the area of 50 to 55 psi at idle. If you have 90 - 110 then you have twice what is required or spec'd in the FSM and you should look for the reason why it's so high.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks guys I found the problem is my fuel filter it is raining it's 55 P S I is the rail thanks again I'm on the work on the brakes
 
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