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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings and apologies for the lack of introduction,

I have a 89' Lebaron GTC 2.5L Turbo - A413, The drive shafts seem to be stuck in park regardless of shift position, Does not roll/move in neutral.

- List of things i checked(In no particular order, lol) -

* ATF level is acceptable with no leaks
* C/V Shafts have been checked, seem to be installed and working properly
* Parking brake assemblies have been removed, Standard brake assemblies have been entirely replaced and function normally with full rotation of wheels.
* Valve body has been disassembled,cleaned and rebuilt and seems to be functioning normally
* Kick down and accumulator servos have been cleaned, tested, reassembled and and are functioning normally
* Kick down bands and clutch assemblies seem to be functioning well, but a little worn, will probably need replacing at some point, output shaft turns using my hand.
* Shift linkage is connected and working, inside of car and out, Shifter shifts fine.
* Neutral/Park Safety switch works fine
* Car starts, runs, and idles fine, no abnormal noises
* Torque converter has been filled with fluid prior to installation, feels "proper" and does not make any abnormal noise.
* Pump to case gasket, pump gasket, front seal have been replaced.

- What i have not tried yet -

* Replacement, cleaning or rebuilding of the Differential and final drive gear
* Replacement or cleaning of the governor
* Replacement of the Kick down bands, clutches and planetary gears, though i do not think this is the problem do to my specific condition (but, i could be wrong)
* Replacement of the transmission pump and housing.
* Repair or replacement of transfer shaft and gears

I'm running out of ideas and getting tired of working on this thing, lol. I think it may be the diff, /shrug, any help or suggestions will be welcome.

Thank's and sorry for the trouble.
 

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Welcome to Allpar. It does sound like a seized differential or parking sprag?
Above the valve body is the parking pawl and sprag gear. Are they releasing?

It is difficult, but not impossible, to pull the differential cover while the the transaxle is still in the car. There you may find your problem. Is the differential pinion shaft still in the differential case? It is held in by a roll pin that can shear and wedge the shaft into the case.

The transfer shaft (pinion shaft to the ring gear) can be removed from the driver side of the transaxle housing after dropping the valve body and removing the transfer bearing retainer snap ring.
It should pull out of the housing. Then you can determine if the differential carrier bearing are stuck or not. Look for clues like metal bits and shavings.

What led up to the vehicle not moving? Any history?
 

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I second the differential pinion shaft coming loose, hopefully if that is the problem it didn't do any other damage. My son had one come out on his 5 speed Plymouth Turismo 2.2 entering the interstate on his way to work. Locked the wheels then "popped" and freewheeled, Punched a hole right through into the clutch area. A604s are bad about doing that and destroying the case.

If you find you need parts, I have a complete A413 from a 1989 Lebaron J body coupe, 2.5L turbo, as far as I know it worked, car had a bad steering rack so it wasn't driveable.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies,

About a year ago i had an ATF leak from the bottom of the bell housing, pulled the transmission and replaced the pump to case gasket and pump o-ring (being a 30 year old car, they were destroyed). A few weeks ago, i had fluid leaking again and found that the pump bolts wiggled loose, so i replaced the the gasket and o-ring again, lol, i also added thread locker to the pump bolts and reinstalled the transmission.

And that's it, No drive in any position.

I went through a checklist with my Chrysler Service manual, and all that is left not checked is in the above post.

Transmission is reinstalled at the moment, i will not be able to work on it until Monday, so we will see. :)

Also, Sprag and pawl seemed fine and working properly when i reinstalled the valve body.

I think i can drop the K-frame easier than lowering the transmission again to open the diff cover, no worries.


I'm very grateful for the help, thank you for your time.
 

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Ok, I would do an oil pressure test, it sounds like the pump is not working. I know from personal experience how hard it can be to get the torque converter properly installed in the pump and how easily the pump drive gear is the break (it was a 998 when I worked at the Dodge dealership).
 

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Yes, Neutral isn't dependent on anything electric or hydraulic and Park is strictly mechanical.
I have had bellhousing ATF leaks and a crack had formed where the differential pinion shaft was breaking through the case into the bellhousing area.
 

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