[thurman15]

Hi folks. I have a 1990 Chrysler New Yorker that every once in awhile (out of nowhere) refuses to keep running when I start it. I have tried locking and unlocking it with the key many times. When this happens, it may take a day or two, but with perseverance, it will finally start and keep running. Why it finally decides to keep running is anybody's guess. This may only happen a couple times a year, but when it does, I am usually lucky I am at home. Other than trying to keep locking and unlocking the doors to reset the security (which doesn't work) is there any other possible reason this may happen? Thanks.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

What leads you to believe the stalling is associated with the key fob use and security? Are you doing a remote start with it? And does it only stall when doing a remote start?

 

[valiant67]

The security system only cuts the car off after it runs a few seconds. If your problem isn't right after starting, then it could be something else.
1990 did not use a remote even with the alarm system, instead relying on the unlock with the key to shut the alarm system down. The factory service manual (which I no longer have) has a procedure to enter test mode for the security system and test the trigger points.

 

[thurman15]

No remote. I have read on hear that the problem is associated with the security system, and that you need to lock and unlock the driver's door with the key (don't lock it with the electric door locks). I don't know what else could cause this to happen. I don't know what else to look at as the possible cause.

Yes. It shuts off right after I start it and it runs a few seconds.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

There could be many causes. First thing to do is check for fault codes using this procedure:

http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes/index.html

Also, how many miles since the last tuneup? Sometimes worn ignition parts will cause this trouble - wires, ignition rotor often don't last as long as the service interval suggests.

 

[thurman15]

well, i get a code 15 and a code 41.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Code 15 No signal received by the computer (ECU) from the speed sensor[/SIZE]

[SIZE=13.5pt]Code 41[/SIZE]


[SIZE=13.5pt]Alternator field control circuit open or shorted[/SIZE]


[SIZE=10.5pt]Speed sensor may be bad, or the connection at the plug. It is mounted in the transaxle.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Code 41 indicates that the alternator may not be charging for some reason. It could be the alternator itself, or the wiring connections to it may be loose or corroded (this recently happened to me, rusty connections). Do you have access to a voltmeter? Check voltage with engine off and at idle. Should be about 12.4V and about 14.0V, respectively. It's a good idea also to remove and clean the battery terminals and cable clamps with a wire brush tool, even if they seem clean.[/SIZE]

 

[valiant67]

And it could be if there is corrosion that is the problem with the alarm system. Any time battery power is removed, the alarm is triggered which would cause the stalling issue even though you didn't intentionally set the alarm.

 

[Oklahoma Wolf]

It should also be mentioned that the alarm can be disarmed by both front door locks, not just the driver's side, should this car be like countless others and have either the disarm switches go bad or fall off entirely.

 

[thurman15]

Yes, the passenger side door handle is disconnected (broken), but it's been that way for quite awhile.. I have a door handle to replae it with. I just haven't gotten around to it becauuse I didn't think it mattered as far as the anti-theft goes.

 

[Oklahoma Wolf]

The theft alarm disarm switch is attached to the back of the lock cylinder itself, not the door handle. It's a little round circular thing. The one attached to the handle is for the illuminated entry... it's a long white switch.

 

[thurman15]

Thanks Wolf. I'm gonna take the door apart tomorrow and replace the handle assembly (with the lock). Maybe this will do it. Ill also take apart the driver's side door and check the switch.

Wolf. Not to get off the subject, but if I EVER do get the New Yorker to run again, my electronic speedometer doesn't work. It will work for a few seconds if I press the seat adjustment switch (up, down, backwards, forwards). Weird, I know. I think it must be a grounding problem, but don't know where to look. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks for your help.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

You'll want to pull the cluster and reflow solder joints wherever they look questionable. It was a common problem.

 

[thurman15]

I have already replaced the cluster. No difference. At this point, all I can do is laugh about this whole thing. It's not like I can take it to the Chrysler Service Center. I already did. No one there knows how to work on a car that "old". Their service manuals don't go back that far. I LOVE my car. But, what if I can never get it to run again?

 

[thurman15]

who do i take it to that can actually find the problem with the anti-theft problem? I don't want to have to take it to the junk yard. it is a beautiful car.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

I still don't see why you think the security system is at fault. Did you check the voltage with engine off and at idle?

 

[Oklahoma Wolf]

I'd see about that code 41 first. Depending how loaded that car is, you have about 6-10 different computer modules or so scattered around the car that talk to each other. This is 1980s electronics we're talking about... if the electrical system isn't working properly, neither are all those computers. They will drive you insane if they aren't getting stable power, because they don't work right without it.

I'd check all connections between the alternator and battery, including the inside of the power distribution center, for corrosion. If not that, could be the alternator's faulty. Could be all your problems will go away once code 41 becomes a thing of the past.

 

[thurman15]

Bob. It won't idle. As soon as I start it, it runs for about 3 seconds and then shuts off. I can hear the electric fuel pump come on when I turn the key to ON (not run). Then I can hear it shut down about three seconds after the car starts.

Wolf. You mean I should try a new distributor cap, rotor, and plugs? And checking the ground wires? If that doesn't work, I should try replacing alternator? If you think that will help, I'll do it tomorrow. My New Yorker only has 63,000 miles on it. I have had the alternator replaced once with a rebuilt.

 

[Oklahoma Wolf]

You don't have a distributor on that car. It uses a coil pack instead, which I find rarely ever fails.

Just check the connections at the alternator, the PDC, and the battery for corrosion and/or broken wires. As mentioned in post 7, code 41 indicates an issue with the alternator perhaps not charging properly. If the alt is newer, it's more likely to end up being wiring or corrosion issues.

The PDC is that big black thing behind the battery with all the fuses in it. It can be removed and taken apart for inspection - disconnect the battery first. More than likely though the problem will not be in there... I'd go there last. The Imperial had some corrosion in there last year though, which is why I'm mentioning it as a possibility.

 

[valiant67]

You need to find a 1990 factory service manual which will have the instructions for testing the security system. That's a start. I think it is quite likely the system that is causing the dying. But the other thing is what trips the system? An interuption on battery power will. As will using the power lock button. So my guess is there's something happening in one of those two areas, even if you aren't doing it, that is triggering the system.

With an older car, something like this is invaluable:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-PLYMOUTH-CHRYSLER-DODGE-FWD-CAR-SHOP-MANUAL-SET-ORIG-MOPAR-SERVICE-BOOKS-/161043256913?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item257eed1651&vxp=mtr
Notice it's a three book set.