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Discussion Starter #1
Just had the fuel pump replaced on a 1990 3.0 caravan.
Here’s the issue: Upon leaving the mechanics I made it 2 blocks and the vehicle stalls when throttle is completely disengaged.
I turned around and drove back and when I got there the idle was fine. Thought perhaps it needed a purge and it worked itself out so I drove it home.
Problem still persists. Upon cold startup it will idle fine but 2 blocks down the road it stalls, it’s done this every time. After a few restarts everything is fine again.
Mechanic suggests it could be sticking idle air control valve. I could replace it but thought I’d check here before throwing another $30 at the van.
Any thoughts here?
Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If you drive with both feet, can you prevent the stall?
Has the throttle body bore and blade been cleaned of carbon deposits?
Yes driving with both feet will prevent the stall.
Throttle body bore and blade have not been cleaned of carbon deposits. I have no experience doing that but if you could recommend a chemical/procedure to use I can do it.
Also should mention there is no check engine light on.
And just now I started the vehicle and it will not idle in park anymore unlike earlier today.
I have a multimeter to test the connector and valve if anyone knows the correct readings I could do that as well if advised.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you drive with both feet, can you prevent the stall?
Has the throttle body bore and blade been cleaned of carbon deposits?
I just cleaned the throttle body and plate and the engine isn’t stalling right now. Hope it continues to run well. Thanks for the advice. There was black gunk on the brush and towel after cleaning it out but I don’t know if it was excessive and causing the stall. Hopefully it was.
 

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KOG
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Good idea to clean throttle body when changing plugs at 50K.
 
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Just had the fuel pump replaced on a 1990 3.0 caravan.
Here’s the issue: Upon leaving the mechanics I made it 2 blocks and the vehicle stalls when throttle is completely disengaged.
I turned around and drove back and when I got there the idle was fine. Thought perhaps it needed a purge and it worked itself out so I drove it home.
Problem still persists. Upon cold startup it will idle fine but 2 blocks down the road it stalls, it’s done this every time. After a few restarts everything is fine again.
Mechanic suggests it could be sticking idle air control valve. I could replace it but thought I’d check here before throwing another $30 at the van.
Any thoughts here?
Thank you.

I bought a new 1989 Dodge Grand Caravan LE with the 3.0 V6 (and the infamous UltraDrive transmission).

Periodically, I had to clean the throttle body bore and blade. I would remove the Idle Air Control valve, and clean the pintle with a lint-free cloth soaked in throttle body cleaner. I would also use the cloth with the tip of my little finger, to clean the inside of the IAC bore.

That cleaning always corrected a rough idle with the transmission in drive, and stalling when I would stop at a stoplight.
 

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KOG
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Q-Tips sprayed with carb cleaner are very useful for throttle body cleaning.
 
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Throttle body spray cleaner and a tooth brush works well to cleans the cavity's

Thanks
Randy
 

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IF you plan on cleaning up the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) which I would recommend you do btw, remember not to move the pintle position from where is was when you remove it. The PCM is looking for that to be at a certain spot on start up. If you move it, you may have a difficult time getting it started again. Also, check to see if the little "cap" at the end of the pintle is complete with no larger nicks or pieces out of it. If that "cap" is damaged, I'd recommend IAC replacement at that time. I've owned and modified several 3.0 V-6's over the years, other than timing belt issues they are a stout piece and will serve you very well!!
 
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The IAC step position/minimum idle speed can be relearned after a battery disconnect/reconnect (hard adaptives reset).
Note that it may stall and/or have a slow idle until it teaches the PCM the new values after a few moments.
Do not adjust the minimum idle air screw on the throttle body. It is not an idle speed adjustment. Idle speed is controlled by the PCM.
 

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Alternatively, I always adjust said screw to my desired warm idle speed.

Prevents stalling under OP's conditions.

Thanks
Randy
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
If you drive with both feet, can you prevent the stall?
Has the throttle body bore and blade been cleaned of carbon deposits?
After several test drives since yesterday it’s not stalling anymore and idles fine. Looks like cleaning the throttle body was the solution.
Thanks very much to all who contributed here.
This is my third caravan/voyager of this generation with the 3.0. The two previous ones sadly went to the scrapyard in perfectly good running condition. I live in Minnesota where rust never sleeps.
 
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