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1979 Lincoln Town Car, 1987 Chevrolet Silverado, 1990 Chrysler Imperial
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ever since I had the car the driver's side window and passenger window regulator's didn't work. Recently I noticed the passenger rear one doesn't work right either, needs help going up. Only one that works properly is the rear driver side one. I need to replace 3 window regulators in total. My question is should they be bought new or is acquiring one from a junkyard a good idea?
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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I would investigate first. Rear regulators rarely 'wear out'. The grease may stiffen up to the consistency of candle wax after 23 years. Weatherstrips, channels & guides may slide easier with silicone spray. Silicone spray may stain vinyl, paint & door panel upholstery, so wipe off any overspray.

The motors themselves may be riveted & 'sealed' and probably not really serviceable. The regulator track & linkage can be lubed with a light multi-purpose grease.

Ones from the junkyard may be in the same predicament. New may not be be necessary if they respond to lubricant.
The front glass lift is a nylon tape or ribbon that works like a rack & pinion. It can be serviced while still in the door.

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The rear glass lift is an older style arm-type regulator. This motor may actually come apart for cleaning/lubrication.
The roller at the end of the arm sits in a slot on the glass lift plate.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the response. Much appreciated. The rear window regulator looks like the regulators, or similar, to the ones in my 79 Town Car.

Now the rear passenger window is the whole way down and wont go back up. It keeps making a noise when you push the switch to go up but doesn't move. I guess I'll have to take the door panel off this weekend and see what the issue is, probably stuck. I know it would slip while going up before the condition it is in now.

Some clarification for the regulators. The passenger one doesn't respond to any of the buttons to go up or down, no noise. Unsure why. The drive side one does make a noise but the window just falls down about half way or a bit lower and stays there, I have it taped up to stay. Each one has it's own issue oddly enough.
 

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1993 Dodge caravan, 1949 Dodge truck, 1991 swb chevrolet truck
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It would only be a opinion, I would guess proper lubrication is a big problem here.
The moving parts need some good grease to keep them moving effortlessly ..... Naturally I kinda guess nobody has ever pulled the door panels and properly greased the rails/gears.

My caravan is same way, the passenger window goes up & down lickety split, while the driver side is slow ....
They have a small electric motor that rolls the window up or down ..... When the grease is old & stiff, that motor is working twice as hard as normal.

Same thing with my old truck, old grease and rolling it up by hand .... I would have to grab the top of the glass and assist it while rolling it up with the other hand.
What I did was remove all the old dirt & grease manually with a wire brush or whatever.
Then I used some brake cleaner & sprayed it in on the tracks & gears.
I then sprayed some oil on everything .... I have Pblaster ... just any oil would do.
Then I applied some light white grease every where that I could reach.
Now I can easily roll up & down my windows manually.

Sounds like you have more then one issue .... I'm just suggesting that with the dirty rails, the electric motor is working too hard & can burn out, The gear on the end of the motor could strip out because of the added stress, A wire connection could burn off because of the added heat ..... Lubrication caused the problem, each window may have a different fix. Depends on what failed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for adding input! What would cause the window for the passenger door to not go up or down? I guess the motor is toast or something.

Would white lithium grease work for a lubricant as well?
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Can you hear the motor working inside the door?
Many of these nylon tracks aged & would break. Dorman makes/made a replacement.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
On the passenger side door? There is no sound. The rear passenger door is what I'm working on today. It's working but not putting up the window.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
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Are there any hidden screws that need to be taken out or is it just the pop in things on the door holding it in? Being extra careful because I don't want to damage it
 

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Hidden screws behind speaker cover & in carpeting a the base of the trim panel.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for that but this is for the rear passenger door. No speakers in the rear doors
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Alright managed to get the rear window back up with pliers and some cloth(not to scratch the glass). Still would like to know the details to take the panel off thoug. Will need serviced either way in the future
 

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1993 Dodge caravan, 1949 Dodge truck, 1991 swb chevrolet truck
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Lithium grease would be better then what I have.
Mine is labeled as wheel bearing grease & what I bought it for. I was surprised when I opened it up & is white, smooth & creamy ... I would never use it for wheel bearings.
I figure it is good for other things like door hinges or window tracks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Unrelated note, how much freon does this take for the A/C system?
 

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1993 Dodge caravan, 1949 Dodge truck, 1991 swb chevrolet truck
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Certain my way is totally unprofessional, Seems like once a year I need to add some to my caravan .... add it in the spring and by late summer just not cool as it normally is.
I just use this gadget from the auto parts store & add freon to the system til the gauge is in the green zone.
You do not need to add the whole can, there is a valve on the end and you just close it and remove the hose from the vehicle. Leave the Hose connected to the can and store it away til next time.
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It has been my experience in the past, running a car with no freon will destroy the compressor. The freon is the lubrication for the compressor .... like running a engine with no oil.
Simply self destructs.
It helps to unplug the electric wire harness from the compressor so it will not run while it has no or little freon in it. ........ But if it was not unplugged & driven many hours .... who's to say if it still works?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Hmm. Well then. I have ran it to see if the A/C works and there is no cold air. I wonder if that is enough to do damage.

I have a hose similar to that one you listed. Used it to put freon in my 79.
 

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My limited knowledge, the pulley always turns because of the serpentine belt. That does not engage the compressor though ... simply the pulley freewheeling.

The trick I guess would be to have the engine running the hood open, engage the AC & see if the compressor kicks on .... You will hear it, see a drag on the motor, you will know if it turned on or not.

If the compressor does not kick in, which actually puts a fair load onto the engine .... probably takes 5hp from the engine to run it at a idle. Just saying you will know .....

Now forget everything I have said on the subject!
I just remembered you have a 1990, it uses the old style freon. My 1993 caravan has the modern freon & easy to get.
My 1991 chevy truck has the old style AC system like yours & I need to convert it to the new modern style ..... you will also need to do this for working AC. Unless I'm wrong and 1990 Chrysler has the newer AC?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I remember now looking under the hood that it says nothing anywhere about it being converted. My dad said as well in 1990 they were using R12. I mean you can actually still get R12 but it's expensive as hell and doesn't come in those nice little containers. Looks yo be all original. Ill take a pic when I get back.
 

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Rear window regulators absolutely can go out, I replaced one a few years back, think it was from rockauto or something, tho I suspect it may have worn out sooner than normal bc my dog sits in the back and learned to hit the button to roll down the window to stick his head out, but he didn't always let go of the button when it was down. On the driver's side, the track tape is broken but it still works as long as I stop when it's down, otherwise I have to thread it back in. (Yes, I will get a new one someday..)

Mine is an 89 New Yorker should be mostly the same car. Your ac system will be 38 ounces but that doesn't matter much since you will not be using r12. If you use r134 you may have to switch to Ester or PAG, but I'm using "Envirosafe r12 substitute". (Sshhhhh..!) And you only need 12 Oz or so just get it up to where it's running 45 psi or so on the low side. So you know, this compressor doesn't cycle, it stays on with the ac switch and the cooling fan cycles instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I would assume they are nearly identical as well. Thanks for the reply. Does it really matter what brand I should use? Also should I use a sealer with it as well? It gets pretty hot with only one window able to go down properly lol.

Isn't it true the A/C turns on as well while using defrost?
 

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Whatever you do, make sure whatever refill you use says nothing about a stop leak or sealer, these sealers don't fix significant leaks and best case your ac won't work as good. You may have to find where it's leaking first, but pretty much all ac systems leak over time. Period

It's not the way you are supposed to do it, but some people find the leak by adding freon and listening for the leak. EPA may get mad, but how is a person supposed to know there is a leak and somehow find a way to contain the gas while figuring out where it's leaking from?
 
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