Allpar Forums banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I bought this 1991 umc areomate a few months ago ant turned in to a ice cream truck. The whole drive train is Chrysler with the v6 3.3 4 speed auto trans. Had it on the road about 2 weeks and had been working fine no problems at all, unit I reversed it on to my driveway which it has incline. I loaded the frezzers, ice cream and sodas. I reved the engine to have a bit of more juice for when I connected the frezzers to my power inverter. While reving the engine in park I heard a clunck and it started to roll back. I lost parking. I put it in gear and nothing. I lost all forward shifts and parking, except reverse. When I put it in to drive it seems to be stuck and won't go. I lifted it up and droped the pan and no metal shavings and oil looked good, but it dose smell burnt. I was thinking maybe the diferential pin? I read all about the limp mode, but this is way different. I would appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,357 Posts
Welcome to Allpar. If you have lost Park and the vehicle rolls, then the problem would have to be somewhere in the transfer gear, transfer shaft, differential or axles area. It sounds mechanical and not anything electrical or hydraulic. If you still have Reverse, then something must still be connected?
Can you pull the differential cover for a look? You have the A-604 (41TE) transaxle.

http://www.shinseiauto.com/japanese/transtar/42rle.pdf
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Ok, well I pulled the differential cover off and it looks nice and clean. The pin is in place and all gears look to be ok. I rotaded the wheels and it was smooth no funny noises. While jacked up and in park, the wheels would lock up like being in park, but if I would jerk turn the wheels the park pawl would skip and make a clicking noise. I was thinking since it was fully loaded and in on a incline maybe it has something to do with the parking pawl? Not engaging? Or engaging in drive? Also I noticed that after I would turn it on something would engage /disengage after 2-3 seconds after being on. So I dropped in to drive during the 3 second window and it seemed to go just a bit, but then quit.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,357 Posts
Is the shift cable adjusted correctly? It starts OK in Park and Neutral?
The Park pawl and sprag mechanism are above the valve body at the far driver's side end of the transaxle. It must fully engage (spring loaded) into the cogs in order to firmly hold it in Park.
The shift lever shaft has to moved to one 'click' past 1st gear in order to place the Park rod in its holster. The valve body can then come down. Maybe you can see something wrong up in there?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Ok I'll check that out. I forgot to mention that when I first got it would start fine in park, then one day it wouldn't start, so I had to start it in neutral. It would only do that once in a while, but now it will only start in neutral
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
So the shift link was out of wack. Now it dose start in park. I replaced the transmission filter, gaskets and the correct at+3 fluid, because I'm sure it had dextron, Just waiting on the silicone gasket to cure to put in the fluid and see if it works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
OK so I replaced the fluid, filter and adjusted the shifter. I still have the same problem. I took the shifter cable of the main lever on top of the transmission so I can make sure I could shift it in all the gears and I noticed that park feels like its in gear but stuck. Reverse is fine. Neutral is reverse now, so I got 2 reverses. Drive not working, but when you first shift it it will move forward just a bit, then it locks up. It feels like it's in drive and park at the same time. So now I have no clue what could be wrong. I just can't understand how can it just stop working just by being parked
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,357 Posts
Two Reverse ranges are bad. Reverse gear is strictly hydraulic or mechanical. All of the electricals can fall off the transaxle, but Reverse, Park, Neutral and 2nd gear should all still work properly. The feeling of engagement in Park is also bad. A clutch element (Reverse?) may still be applied.
If the external shift linkage is OK, then it has to be internal. Does it still start in Park and Neutral and do the reverse lights come on in Reverse?
Reverse could be a valve body, solenoid pack, internal hydraulic leakage or mechanical clutch seizure issue.
Was there any transaxle work or history leading up to this? If there are no visual clues so far, you may want to do some hydraulic pressure diagnostics.
This transaxle may need replacement if it is original and at fault.
There have been so many hardware and software upgrades since 1991, that a reman may be the best way to go if it can be proved to be an internal issue where the transaxle would have to come out.
We declined rebuilding anything this obsolete at the dealer as a reman (with the latest hardware upgrades already included) was the best solution. You would want a finned TCM with the latest software upgrade installed and make sure that the ATF cooler was clean and clear.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top