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There are probably many no start posts in fact I have seen them but I wanted to differentiate a bit, there are myriad directions without this specific.. anyway help, here goes..
1; fuel pump is working, I hear it 2; (and significant (?) at the end of cranking it I get a dieseling huff and that is all. I did pump in starter food to the intake with just a bit more accentuated dieseling, no fires.

I went out labor day night for ice cream parked for 5 mins and it has not started since, walked the 7 miles home ugh.. called in a tow and now seek an answer with the help of the wise!
Thank you
 

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This 'end of cranking huff' usually happens when you get a single coil spark at 'key-off'. It may be a distributor issue on the 3.0L, but the 3.0L wasn't used in 2006. The last year of the 3.0L in the minivan was 2000.
 
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ImperialCrown said:
This 'end of cranking huff' usually happens when you get a single coil spark at 'key-off'. It may be a distributor issue on the 3.0L, but the 3.0L wasn't used in 2006. The last year of the 3.0L in the minivan was 2000.
Uh srry I am wishing time was not escaping me so fast.. and (wish I had the newer caravan too btw lol) Yes iit is a 1996!!
oh my..
 

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I fixed the title for you.
 

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Check for spark first. You can still get what appears to be dieseling with no spark. She still has a distributor, right? Pull the cap off and make sure the rotor turns, it may be a belt or chain (Not sure which it has).
 

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There still is a distributor, but there is probably a crank position sensor as well since it's a 1996. On that engine I'm not sure if the crank sensor determines when it sparks or if it just monitors for a misfire. I'm sure ImperialCrown will chime in on that.
 

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The crank position sensor establishes the firing time or sync, working in conjunction with the computer. The distributor functions as a cam position sensor.

Is the SES light on? i.e. any codes?

When did the engine last have the timing belt replaced? When were the plugs, wires, dist cap &rotor last replaced? I'd start with the basics first. You hear of the crank position sensor failing occasionally on these, but the basic tune up parts and timing belt come to mind first. If the plug wires are original, get those changed. If original, they would be 17 years old!
 
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John Wood said:
The crank position sensor establishes the firing time or sync, working in conjunction with the computer. The distributor functions as a cam position sensor.

Is the SES light on? i.e. any codes?

When did the engine last have the timing belt replaced? When were the plugs, wires, dist cap &rotor last replaced? I'd start with the basics first. You hear of the crank position sensor failing occasionally on these, but the basic tune up parts and timing belt come to mind first. If the plug wires are original, get those changed. If original, they would be 17 years old!
thanks will ck spark an no lites or codes read due to no obd11 meter on site... but thanks for the targets, wish i were only 17 years old .. nuts., but wires you say, on chilly cape cod tonight watching campfire but tomorrow I plan to be under the hood, cap and all.
good info all much thanks will be on fri pm!
 

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If you have a rotor under that distributor cap it won't spin as you crank it if the timing belt is broken. Plus if the belt is broken all compression will be lost since the valves in the top end aren't moving. The engine will spin much faster and produce a high pitched whine when cranked.

Since the SES ( check engine) light isn't lit you probably don't have any codes stored but it never hurts to check. You don't need a scanner or code reader to read codes on your van. Cycle the key from off to on (not start) 3 times leaving it at on/run on the last cycle. Now count the flashes of the SES light. All fault codes are 2 digit codes. Each digit is seperated by a pause. Each 2 digit code is seperated by a longer pause. Should finish with a code 55. It's known as "the key dance".
 

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1996 may not spit codes out via the check engine light. Or it may require a slightly different process:
http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
There is a different procedure on this page for 1999 minivans. It may work on a 1996.
You can also probably buy or borrow an inexpensive code reader, though a broken timing belt or fuel presssure issues may not set a code.
 

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"Cycle the key from off to on (not start) 3 times leaving it at on/run on the last cycle. Now count the flashes of the SES light. All fault codes are 2 digit codes. Each digit is seperated by a pause. Each 2 digit code is seperated by a longer pause. Should finish with a code 55. It's known as "the key dance".

Yup, works great on my 96.
 

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The crank position sensor (CKP) is your ignition spark trigger and the cam position sensor (CMP) is in the distributor base and handles fuel injector squirt sync (as the distributor is driven directly off the cam). The engine can still start and run without a cam sensor, although it may take a long cranking time for the PCM to 'learn' where the #1 cylinder is on just the crank sensor/flywheel shutter reference. It will not start or run without a crank sensor signal.
The top half of the distributor handles the conventional task of distributing the high voltage to the spark plug wires. A broken timing belt may or may not set a cam sensor code as the cams and distributor won't be turning. The 3.0L is a non-interference engine, so your valves should be OK wherever they stop.
Codes may be read with the 'key dance' or you may be able to read 'P' codes in your odometer display by entering the instrument cluster self-test as shown in the video below, but the 2-digit codes 'blinking light' test will work also. Have a pen and paper handy to write down the code(s). There may not be any codes and we will have to perform 'no-start' diagnostics in some good old-fashioned, roll-up-the-sleeves type detective work.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76p4InsZ1oM
 
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ImperialCrown said:
The crank position sensor (CKP) is your ignition spark trigger and the cam position sensor (CMP) is in the distributor base and handles fuel injector squirt sync (as the distributor is driven directly off the cam). The engine can still start and run without a cam sensor, although it may take a long cranking time for the PCM to 'learn' where the #1 cylinder is on just the crank sensor/flywheel shutter reference. It will not start or run without a crank sensor signal.
The top half of the distributor handles the conventional task of distributing the high voltage to the spark plug wires. A broken timing belt may or may not set a cam sensor code as the cams and distributor won't be turning. The 3.0L is a non-interference engine, so your valves should be OK wherever they stop.
Codes may be read with the 'key dance' or you may be able to read 'P' codes in your odometer display by entering the instrument cluster self-test as shown in the video below, but the 2-digit codes 'blinking light' test will work also. Have a pen and paper handy to write down the code(s). There may not be any codes and we will have to perform 'no-start' diagnostics in some good old-fashioned, roll-up-the-sleeves type detective work.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76p4InsZ1oM
Thanks IC It was throwing a 12 so as I have a knock off on the neg terminal this is correct.. but no other codes.. Then I had no one to look so have to rely on the fact that using starting fluid and hearing the fuel pump, it has no spark to fire or even sputter, just a hotter dieseling once I charged up the battery.

So removal of the cap to inspect was next.. and Oh my, the cross head screws on the distrib were rusty.. busted one will need to drill it. Rotor turns when cranked though so T belt is not broken. Cap and R pretty rough shape but probably not the issue, having past exp as connoisseur of not so fine caps and rotors . But not seen the lock nut I busted the rotor so, cap and rotor monday.. then.. from there I am really not sure, connections look okay at the comp and elsewhere.
 

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Then it is time to go to the coil if the rotor turned, meaning it isn't the belt, but there still isn't any spark. Yeah, when they get that rusty and break, not a good maintenance sign.
 

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Broken distributor cap screws were fairly common after a few years in the salt belt.
It isn't easy to drill out a steel screw in an aluminum housing. The drill won't want to go straight.
Do you have access to an OBD II scan tool to check for crank sensor signal at the PCM?
 
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ImperialCrown said:
Broken distributor cap screws were fairly common after a few years in the salt belt.
It isn't easy to drill out a steel screw in an aluminum housing. The drill won't want to go straight.
Do you have access to an OBD II scan tool to check for crank sensor signal at the PCM?
And this is that, even I am "rusty" so I drilled it and yep the screw escaped me till I went huge on it, with a carriage bolt to the rescue maybe my rube trick will work.. and I am out the door to get a OBD11 @ advance auto.. Is there a clue about how to get that code or where to plug in for it or just regular scan procedure?.
thanks in "advance" heh I know I know.. bad pun.. lol
 

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There may not be a fault code. The DLC (data link connector) is the black trapezoidal one under the dash.
If the scan tool has the ability, have it monitor crank and cam sensors while cranking. If the signal is missing, you could still be looking at sensor, wiring or PCM issues.
 

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bastart said:
Cap and R pretty rough shape but probably not the issue, having past exp as connoisseur of not so fine caps and rotors .
Our '96 gave me fits for weeks and ended up being cap & rotor. Only way I figured it out was when we stalled out on a rainy evening. Sugar tried a restart while I was looking at the engine and I saw the sparks flying. Replace 'em.
 
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Ray Green said:
Our '96 gave me fits for weeks and ended up being cap & rotor. Only way I figured it out was when we stalled out on a rainy evening. Sugar tried a restart while I was looking at the engine and I saw the sparks flying. Replace 'em.
So OMB11 thows no codes ... Fingers crossed added a cap and rotor, and... we have ignition! ! ! !!!! cautious optimism today hopefully the chapter ends with a test drive later on.. My greatest and best to IC you Ray and all who effort-ed here for me.,
THANK YOU
 
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